I have 2K miles on the car and it seems to be making better power. I truly beleive the throtle response is terrible i.e. too long of a delay between pushing the pedal and power delivery.

Any mods to address this? Plugs, plug wires, screen removal??? Any suggestions please.

 

this is subjective.

what version of the car do you have ? this will help identify the most appropriate mods. for your combination.

the stock plugs are very very good, i don't believe you will see much by replacing them.

replacing the plug wires, unless faulty, aren't gonna provide much either.

MAF screen removal is a back and forth debate. some say yes, others say no diff. either way. if you do decide to descreen your MAF you should place another screen upstream to help create a more laminar flow across the MAF "wires", too much turbulance will create issues.

 

How long is too long? Mine I felt wasn't crisp until it hit around 3 K miles now it's very good and I'm at 19 K.

 

My car also seemd to lag during acceleration, just a noticable momentary hesitation. I had tune from Z-Industries and it's definitely gone. Shifts like it should have from the factory.

 

I guess it's all a matter of perspective, but I too feel that the throttle response when compared to my M3's is slow. This is very apparent when heel and towing, when a blip of the throttle is required before moving to the next gear. I wonder if a tune would solve the problem. Anyone with a tune know if this is a parameter that has been addressed?

 

I have the Z51 MN6 with a Stinger and Corsa Sport. No other mods.

 

Kooks,cats and corsa with a tune from Ron Zimmer,excellent throttle response.No delay since I got the pcm tune and eliminated the TM,car runs like a race horse on Viagra.

 

I just went through this and the ''tune'' made a world of difference. When I bought my car, the dealer filled it up at a cheap gas station before I took delivery. The car ran great for the first couple of days, but slowly the power ''seemed'' to fade a little. Then I add the GHL cat-backs and w/in a few days power dropped again, fuel consumption went way up and my exhaust tips became black and sooty from an over rich condition. Next, I installed the Halltech Stinger. I did notice an initial small boost in performance, but w/in a couple of days not only was power fading again, but the car was becoming harder to drive. Throtle response was way off, and leaving from a light or complete stop began to require concentration to keep from stalling or lurching. It seemed like I could depress the pedal, and nothing would happen for about the first inch of travel? the final straw came when I drove my business partner's '01 Z-06.... it was easy to take off and faster than mine! The insidious part is that this happens slowly and you're not really aware of it. I finally called Jim at Halltech and he explained that my car was probably running pig rich from reverting to the low octane tables, and from the over temp sensors on the cat. converters dumping in more fuel to cool off the higher temps. Bottom line, I sent my ECU to Jim for a tune and just got it back yesterday. What a difference! The car is incredibly easy and fun to drive again, throtle response is great, and it is noticably faster. Just a completely different personality. If you are experiencing any of these symtomes, I would definatly recommend a good tuner. I was very pleased with my dealings with Jim and would recommend him highly.

 

I recomend to install light weight aluminum flywheel and change fuel mapping for the ECU if u want nice throttle response.

 

I second that

 

try rotating your maf 45 degrees. this will align the diffusor on the maf with the butterfly in the throttle body, allowing a better airflow into the intake. the proper alignment will have the "delphi" module positioned so it is aligned square with the air duct and intake.

you can descreen the maf if you want since the stinger creates a straighter air flow by design.

 

No lag here right outta the box. I now have 2,400 after 3 weeks and it feels really strong.

 

If I descreen, does anyone know if I will start throwing codes?

 

Before you start modding all over the place, I'd get your car fixed first there is no delay.

 

You're looking for bandages when you should be looking for a doctor! See my previous reply if you want to fix the problem.

 

if you mean the check engine code/light then nope. i removed mine a long time ago and no problem. i don't have an odb II scanner so i don't know if there are any codes stored that haven't thrown an idiot light or dic message.

there isn't any harm to be done by rotating the maf, and it is a simple item to reverse if you don't like it.

this is why it, imo, rotating the maf helps performance, especially with an after market air intake (hint hint - freer flowing airflow, more air in, more power out).

if you look at the butterfly in the throttle body you will notice that it goes horizontal (-). the maf contains an air diffusor that goes vertical (|). air first enters the system via the air duct. passes the maf (|) then enters the intake via the throttle body (-).

air comes up the duct in mass, hits the maf screen then hits the maf diffusor which splits the air into two streams both flowing vertically (||) toward the butterfly valve (-). since the butterfly rotates in a horizontal manner the air enters the intake from the top and bottom of the throttle body (in the stock position the majority of the air actually enters through the bottom of the valve due to the way it rotates, air will be directed downward and through until the valve it fully opened). the majority of the air hits the butterfly plate before flowing into the intake. when the maf is rotated to align the diffusor with the butterfly the restriction is reduced and the two streams that are created by the maf diffusor are now directed directly into the openings of the butterfly valve, allowing more air flow into the engine.

if you are trying to resolve a serious lag or bog when you press the pedal, then yes let the dealer check it out but it sounded to me that you are looking for a stronger pedal, one that has instantaneous response, instead of a slight delay (less than two seconds) between full throttle and response. it was the same in the old carb. days. too much fuel and not enough air at the moment the pedal was pressed causing a slight hesitation. it takes a moment for enough vacuum to be created that will suck the needed amount of air into the system for the amount of fuel that was just dumped.

mass + (|) = (||) (||) + (-) = (-H-) = restricted flow

mass + (-) = (=) (=) + (-) = (=) = optimal flow

 

Did you rotate the maf on your C6, and if so, did you notice any difference in the throttle response? My C6 has the same delay that's being talked about here.

 

I'm noticing a lag when launching from a stand-still or when revving starting from below 1k rpm. There's like a half second delay before the engine responds below 1k rpm after you depress the accelerator; above this point there's no delay. Does this describe what you're experiencing?

 

yes, i have rotated my maf and yes it seems to have made a difference.

i have also replaced the stock bellows with a 4" rubber connector from Lowes (not a perfect fit - it buldges in the middle when it's tightened down)

i also removed the rear diffusor from the maf, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK, it is very easy to destroy your maf by simply breaking one of the resistors.

imo: this is better than the "other" aftermarket MAF designs. most of the "other" mafs i've seen completely remove the diffusors and only have "posts and wires". that design may appear and actually flow more air but it doesn't "direct" the air. imo, the front diffusor actually helps airflow through the throttle body by directing it into the openings (when it's rotated into alignment).

just my findings from what i've done to my c6 mn6 f55

 

NOS

Seriously though - during the break-in period you drove like a Blue Hair. Disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Re-connect and drive.