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anyone else having fitment problems with their Halltech Stinger?

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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 10:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hall
I cannot explain what is going on with your intake, so email me with your name and address and we will send you a new system free of charge.

My guess is that the bridge was cut too short to begin with. That is the only explaination for your problems. We have 200 C6 Stingers on the road, and you and Jimman seem to be the only ones with this fitment problem, so lets fix it.

What I cannot understand is why folks post these problems on the forums before ever contacting us? We are easy to reach, easy to deal with, and I answer my email 12 times a day, and I would be happy to refund you in full if you are not satified. What could be easier than that?

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Your right Jim but I did email the dealer I got it from and all I got was a email back asking who I was and the when I answered he came back with "Thanks", not sure what that meant. I just jumped in here to see if it was an obvious oversite on my part, sorry. Also, been using instant message should I have used email instead.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...0&forum_id=115

Last edited by jimman; Aug 7, 2005 at 10:24 PM.
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 11:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by WS6JJP
I just received mine yesterday and everything looks good but when you install it on the car it doesnt line up exactly right. The angle of the air bridge is off and doesnt match up with the angle of the throttle body. Its nothing major but i know this has been brought up before on here and was wondering if there is some kind of fix for this? I even went on the Halltech website and looked at their diagram (on the .pdf instruction page) and you can even see in the pic that the whole assembly and been angled down leaving an uneven gap where the MAF connects. I have tried numerous times, different ways but the best way i could come up with is is try to get it as even as possible and tighten up the clamps last...but not too "even" because then the air bridge wil rub against the hood liner. (no need for the bread test because i could actually see the whole assembly contacting the liner before the hood was fully closed). This was also done with the airfilter sitting rightside/correct side up....metal band at bottom.

As far as power increases, well today will be the first time i actually drive it. It looks like it will flow way, way better than the stock set up so im sure there is HP to be gained. I just wish either 1.) the air bridge would be bent an more of an angle or 2.) the silicone coupler would have an angle put into it or at least be flexible (accordian style like the stock piece) allowing you to get the perfect needed angle to make everything line up with no gaps anywhere. And just to clarify, when i say gaps around the bandclamp areas i dont actually mean "open" gaps that leak air but gaps as in both pieces are not mating up in a straight line.

any comments, ideas???
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! you guys...I know I shouldn't say this AND if I didn't already, I'm gonna say it now-I TOLD YOU SO!!! When are you guys gonna learn??? You shoulda bought the Calloway Honker-Nice, clean, perfect fit AND, now get this: it was DESIGNED BY ENGINEERS, and it FITS TOO! Sorry, I could't resist this....good luck
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 11:47 PM
  #23  
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Jim, i really didnt start this thread to complain about this very minor problem and in retrospect i probably should have just e-mailed you about it. I was basically just asking anyone who had installed a Stinger system if they've ever encountered this problem. I personally think your product is great and would buy it again if i had the choice to do it over again. Im just wondering if whats happening with mine is considered normal. Mine sits almost just about the way yours does in the pic i posted....except i have 2 small gaps (tried to even the 2 small gaps on either side instead of having one bigger gap on the MAF side). I was also suggesting if the rest of the systems out there had this problem (which im not saying they do) that maybe the angle of the air bridge might need to be increased slightly...???. The way i have been looking at it is...if you were to look at the angle of the MAF when it comes off the motor it goes upward slightly, not straight out,(well maybe it is straight out but the front of the car goes down...however you want to look at it) so when you install the stinger system, if you butt all the pieces of your kit up SQUARE the system will not follow the contour or direction that it should. Like on mine, it would actually hold up the air bridge and filter. The filter would be floating there until you either pushed it down with your hand or closed the hood on it and then the liner would push it down....open the hood and it would spring back up. So if these small gaps have to be there to accomodate the extra "angle" that is needed then thats fine i just want to know. If you think there is a problem with my air bridge then maybe we could swap them out with a newer version (if there is such a thing). My buddy's shop (GMR Speed) bought this system for me last week from LG motorsports if im not mistaken .....if you wondering where i purchased it from. Thanks for taking the time to discuss this. If you would like to e-mail me instead of talking on here thats fine, feel free to e-mail me at WS6JJP@***.net
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Old Aug 7, 2005 | 11:59 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by purple heart
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! you guys...I know I shouldn't say this AND if I didn't already, I'm gonna say it now-I TOLD YOU SO!!! When are you guys gonna learn??? You shoulda bought the Calloway Honker-Nice, clean, perfect fit AND, now get this: it was DESIGNED BY ENGINEERS, and it FITS TOO! Sorry, I could't resist this....good luck
You are certainly correct. I too saw the two threads about the Honker a month or so ago.

The Callaway is a very nice design, made by very nice folks.

It must kill you to have to tune cars with our intake onboard.

Last edited by Halltech; Aug 8, 2005 at 04:37 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 12:03 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by WS6JJP
Jim, i really didnt start this thread to complain about this very minor problem and in retrospect i probably should have just e-mailed you about it. I was basically just asking anyone who had installed a Stinger system if they've ever encountered this problem. I personally think your product is great and would buy it again if i had the choice to do it over again. Im just wondering if whats happening with mine is considered normal. Mine sits almost just about the way yours does in the pic i posted....except i have 2 small gaps (tried to even the 2 small gaps on either side instead of having one bigger gap on the MAF side). I was also suggesting if the rest of the systems out there had this problem (which im not saying they do) that maybe the angle of the air bridge might need to be increased slightly...???. The way i have been looking at it is...if you were to look at the angle of the MAF when it comes off the motor it goes upward slightly, not straight out,(well maybe it is straight out but the front of the car goes down...however you want to look at it) so when you install the stinger system, if you butt all the pieces of your kit up SQUARE the system will not follow the contour or direction that it should. Like on mine, it would actually hold up the air bridge and filter. The filter would be floating there until you either pushed it down with your hand or closed the hood on it and then the liner would push it down....open the hood and it would spring back up. So if these small gaps have to be there to accomodate the extra "angle" that is needed then thats fine i just want to know. If you think there is a problem with my air bridge then maybe we could swap them out with a newer version (if there is such a thing). My buddy's shop (GMR Speed) bought this system for me last week from LG motorsports if im not mistaken .....if you wondering where i purchased it from. Thanks for taking the time to discuss this. If you would like to e-mail me instead of talking on here thats fine, feel free to e-mail me at WS6JJP@***.net
Mines exactly this way also, I wonder it the bridge is messed up or the engine is tilted different maybe later build, don't know.
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 12:37 AM
  #26  
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well Jim Hall has PM'ed me and we are discussing whats going on here. He has responded very quickly and is very willing to help....now thats customer service!! Like i said if i had the chance to do it all over again i would still choose the Halltech piece. I havent had it on the dyno since the install but there is a noticable HP increase. I will post some graphs once i get it re-tuned with HPTuners 2.0
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #27  
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Jim, I also have the fitment problem. Will everything fit OK if I notch the bellows?
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 07:12 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hall
You have been misinformed. The ECM always corrects the stoichiometric closed loop trims back to 14.7:1......but, when new air is introduced to the engine, it adds the appropriate amount of fuel to bring the closed loop (partial throttle) fuel trims back to 14.7:1. If the 14.7 part of the equation has more mass i.e. more airflow, then the adjusted fuel will add more power. There is never a time that you run lean in closed loop, unless you have removed the laminar airflow screen. This will cause the MAF to meter the air incorrectly. The expected air will be off when compared to the "actual" air reported by the O2 Sensors. The delta between "expected" airflow and "actual" airflow creates short term and long term fuel trims for every throttle position under WOT. The authority of the ECM is 24% for corrected positive fuel trims, and beyond that you will see a Lean code pop.

Our Stinger will never cause the car to run lean as long as you use the stock C6 MAF sensor with the laminar airflow honeycomb screen.

WOT, however will not reset itself since it is a preset table based on Power Enrichment/vs. RPM. This is Open Loop. Open loop has no connection whatsoever with the O2 sensors and takes its cue from the PE/RPM table exclusively.

There is some dispute about this, but I guarantee that it works as I have described. I spoke to the GM programming guru Dave Halett that dials in each new Corvette and designs the programs for all the vettes. He told me that there is NO connection between Long Term Trims and WOT, and there hasn't been one since the GEN III engines.

He told me that the reason additional fuel ends up on the dyno pulls is a direct result of countermeasures GM has in place to protect the cats called COTP. Shutting off COTP effectively disconnects the ECMs ability to add more fuel than the PE/RPM code prescribes. We have all seen this happen, especially on the C6, which is much more aggressive in protecting the cats.

Both heat, water temps, and load affect the COTP circuit, and there are three fuel enrichment circuits to either dial up or dial out altogether.

Recently I saw a dyno of a C6 6.6 L Stroker, with headers, cam, ported heads, HF cats, X, and Bassani exhaust, BBK intake making only 398 RWHP.

The LT Trims were around zero, but the a/f ratio was below 10:1 on the dyno. How could this be if the LTFs affected the WOT fuel cell? Well it doesn't. Most LS2 Beta testers are taking the PE/RPM target air fuel ratio and duplicating that number for the COTP value. Big mistake. The COTP code is an add on code not a target value.

If I use say 13:1 target under PE/RPM, and turn the COTP off, the LTFs make absolutely no difference on the dyno. I get a 13:1 air fuel ratio.

Check this out. I have proven that the LTFs make no difference on the dyno>

During our initial testing of the LS2 C6 Stinger, some might remember that our MAF up front got crappy results, but that was due to the COTP circuit kicking in. Our first dyno pull on two different dynos showed below 10:1 air fuel ratio on the first pull. When we reinstalled the stock intake, the air fuel ratio instantly jumped to 13.2:1 and settled at 12.25:1 at 6200 rpm, which is exactly what the PE/RPM code prescribes. We put the Stinger back on and instantly the air fuel ratio went back to 10:1.

Now how could Long Term Trims have caused this instantaneous air fuel ratio change with the car sitting on the dyno the whole time? They didn't. The car was dynoed at first with the water temps at 225 degrees for the first pull. A half hour went by before the stock pull, water temps and engine temps had dropped below 170.

Hope this helps.

Jim Hall
Thank you..................my order is in....................
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 07:15 PM
  #29  
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I just lined up the duct and notched mine out fits perfectly
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 08:44 PM
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i am going to be getting my 6 tuned after the intake mod. have you worked with any tuners to assist them in getting the most from your system? if so, who? thanks in advance!
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Old Aug 8, 2005 | 11:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Mayonayze
i am going to be getting my 6 tuned after the intake mod. have you worked with any tuners to assist them in getting the most from your system? if so, who? thanks in advance!
same question here...
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 12:28 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by webdzynes
same question here...
We do programming by mail.

One day turn-around. I cannot go into detail here.

Jim
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 09:29 AM
  #33  
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I just tried to have my Stinger installed and encountered similar issues with fitment and alignment. I have sent e mail to Jim and hope this can be corrected. The connector seemed a little to wide and the connection was very loose and the flex when al was attached caused the middle clamp to slide off..ANY IDEAS
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 12:11 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by footba4672
I just tried to have my Stinger installed and encountered similar issues with fitment and alignment. I have sent e mail to Jim and hope this can be corrected. The connector seemed a little to wide and the connection was very loose and the flex when al was attached caused the middle clamp to slide off..ANY IDEAS
http://www.corvettec5.com/store/?page=shop/install

The fitment question is really not a Stinger problem, but rather the nature of the C6 intake tract. If you look at the stock bellows and measure the angle GM has from the factory, you can see that there is a very steep angle from the MAF to the Throttle Body. They do not line up at all from the factory.

The Halltech Stinger all but eliminates the angle of approach to the throttle body, which provides a straight shot from the end of the MAF to the throttle body. The stock bellows creates a bigtime turbulence problem right before the throttle body, which is one of the reasons the Stinger SSM kicks the competition's arz on the dyno:



The knotch: This is purely a cosmetic deal, that actually pushes the whole Stinger closer to the TB, but raises the filter by 1/8" from its set position. We are now putting a knotch in the new connection hoses going out, but I do not recommend sliding the unit out of its original position. We have sold over 300 units and only a couple of folks have complained about the install. www.CorvetteC6.com

We spent 1 month and had 6 different filter sizes in our R&D to keep the overall size of the unit perfect. 1/8" may not sound like much, but we recommend you do not use the knotch when putting the unit together.

If you view our installation video, you can plainly see the Stinger goes on the C6 in 5 minutes.

Installation TIP: I put the connector hose on the throttle body without the hose clamps on at all. After I install the MAF into the connector hose, I install each hose clamp, and tighten them one by one.

There will always be a slight downward slope due to GM's position of the MAF in relationship to the throttle body.

We eliminate this slope except for maybe 2 degrees. The Stinger can be adjusted to slope slightly and still look perfect on the car.

Watch our video!

Jim Hall
jim@CorvetteC5.com

Last edited by Halltech; Aug 12, 2005 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 02:09 PM
  #35  
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Jim,
Seen any privage messages?
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 02:21 PM
  #36  
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im wondering why you now put the notch in there but then tell people that you recommend that they DONT use it? Im figuring that the problem would be solved if you just had some type of silicone (or any material for that matter) coupler that had the CORRECT angle put into it. Your blaming the car (and not the stinger system) for having ANY type of angle...but thats they way it is....so.... make the Stinger accomodate the car (and correct angle) not the other way around. Im sure that these uneven gaps around the coupler are purely cosmetic and dont leak air but you can see its not 100% right either. Also, like shown in the pic, the factory bellows has an angle (for a reason)...its needed for proper fitment of all pieces.
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 03:02 PM
  #37  
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Jims response was very quick and i sure it will be helpful..i sent all the info to my mechanic and hopefully next week the install will go very smoothly

Thanks Jim..great customer service
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Old Aug 12, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Jim Hall
I cannot explain what is going on with your intake, so email me with your name and address and we will send you a new system free of charge....

...We are easy to reach, easy to deal with, and I answer my email 12 times a day, and I would be happy to refund you in full if you are not satified. What could be easier than that?

Jim Hall
262-593-2424
jim@corvetteC5.com
Now that is "customer service!"
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