I just received mine yesterday and everything looks good but when you install it on the car it doesnt line up exactly right. The angle of the air bridge is off and doesnt match up with the angle of the throttle body. Its nothing major but i know this has been brought up before on here and was wondering if there is some kind of fix for this? I even went on the Halltech website and looked at their diagram (on the .pdf instruction page) and you can even see in the pic that the whole assembly and been angled down leaving an uneven gap where the MAF connects. I have tried numerous times, different ways but the best way i could come up with is is try to get it as even as possible and tighten up the clamps last...but not too "even" because then the air bridge wil rub against the hood liner. (no need for the bread test because i could actually see the whole assembly contacting the liner before the hood was fully closed). This was also done with the airfilter sitting rightside/correct side up....metal band at bottom.

As far as power increases, well today will be the first time i actually drive it. It looks like it will flow way, way better than the stock set up so im sure there is HP to be gained. I just wish either 1.) the air bridge would be bent an more of an angle or 2.) the silicone coupler would have an angle put into it or at least be flexible (accordian style like the stock piece) allowing you to get the perfect needed angle to make everything line up with no gaps anywhere. And just to clarify, when i say gaps around the bandclamp areas i dont actually mean "open" gaps that leak air but gaps as in both pieces are not mating up in a straight line.

any comments, ideas???

 

Couldn't have been me, there were three of us trying to do it. Could not get the coupler to work so we made our own, as pictured. Seems like the angle was all wrong for some reason.

 

That looks good jimman, Lines up perfect. I see you also made a cutout for the tab on the MAF. On the Halltech transition hose there’s no cutout for that.

 

you're right...that does look perfect, the way it should fit!

on another note, i also had to cut out a "notch" for my MAF to fit in there all the way.

jimman: where did you get that red coupler at? is it angled or something for it to fit so good?

 

the place where I was doing it had silicone stock and it's thinner than the stock one so we could fit it.

 

Having the same situation.
I am reaching for my exacto knife as I type.
Was the model C6 that much off or what ?

I gotta say, I feel the difference vs. stock.

 

Jimman. I see the problem you had with installation. You obviously did not purchase the system from Halltech. Whoever sold it to you sent you the wrong hose. We have never used a Red Silicone Coupler with our C6 Stinger SSM.


If you look at the picture below, this is the only Halltech System on the market:




Notice the proprietary transistion hose coupler. This hose is the only one ever sold by Halltech for this system. It is 4" X 3 3/4" X 3" BLACK polyurethane, not RED Silicone.

The vendor that sold you this system mistakenly sent the wrong part.

Please email us at jim@CorvetteC5.com and we will send you the correct part free of charge.

Jim Hall
Halltech
www.CorvetteC5.com

 

We are now cutting the notch you speak of at the factory. Jimman was sent the wrong part by whomever sold him the C6 Stinger. What he got was a 4"X4" Red Silicone hose. That will NOT fit the MAF correctly, which is why we are using a specially made transition hose.

If you view our installation video, you will see that connector hose.

Jim

 

Originally we felt that notching the transistion hose would cause installation difficulties with respect to the PCV nipple.

We had a few recommendations from folks that they would rather have had the notch, so we now provide the MAF alignment notch on our most recent orders.

Jim

 

Not a problem. Actually, feedback like yours and Jimmans helps us refine the product.

We found a simple fix for the notching tool, but in order to begin notching the hose, we had to lengthen the Tunnel Bridge by 1/8" to make up for the slightly shorter setup.

I will post a picture of the simple tools we found to make a perfect notch.

 

The stock piece is angled and does not fit properly. Our trasition hose fits perfectly and provides a straight shot at the throttle body. Perfectly straight if you have the right part:



We have not been knotching the transistion hose because it would have shortened the overall length of our setup by 1/8".

We have decided to lengthen the bridge by 1/8" in the future, and knotch the hose from the factory.

The hose shown above, is the only hose we have ever used or sent out to our distributors for use with the Stinger, so any other hose might have been an error by our distributors in pulling parts.

Please note, that in the picture above, the hose is polyurethane, not Silicone. If you were sent the incorrect hose, we will replace it free.

write me at jim@CorvetteC5.com for a free replacement.

 

They sent me the correct coupler, we used the red do to not being able to use the one that was sent. For some reason the bridge seemed to have the wrong angle and when the thick stock coupler was used it wouldn't allow us to make the bend without forcing the whole assembly. It was as though there was a tollerance issue with the C6 or with the air bridge. I might be interested in seeing if there is a difference in the bridge itself. I did contact the dealer I bought it from but no answer.

 

Jim, or......?........... with just the addition of a stinger to the engine, won't it make the engine run lean? I have heard of tne ECM "learning" that the MAF has increased airflow, adjusts briefly and then resorts to stock calibration.

Could you please post with a comment, thanks.

 

Jim Hall: I think one of us is confused here, maybe i explained it the wrong way..im sorry if i did, but here goes again. First, i did get all the correct parts (no red coupler) everything looks good and performs well BUT there is a fitment problem going on here and from what i have read on here im not the only one (at least 4 others that have had the exact same problem) The problem here is one of two things....first, either the angle of the air bridge is off (not angled downward enough) or....second, the coupler needs to be made more flexible (maybe accordian style???) or have the correct angle needed incorporated into it so it will fit.

Im not saying that all these systems sold fit that way but mine definitely does along with a few others. Also below i posted a pic of one of your systems from your site. As you can see the uneven "gap" that is present from it not being secured squarely. I know that there would normaly be a gap if you didnt notch the coupler not allowing the MAF to sit in there all the way but again if you look at the pic you can see its an uneven gap....now on mine i have 2 of these gaps (one at the TP and the other at the MAF end) from the whole system having to be angled downward to keep from contacting the hood liner. Any ideas or comments to fix this would be appreciated, thanks Jim.

 

I have the same problem, again they sent the black correct coupler but the angle of the air bridge won't let it line up. The bottom of the air bridge hits the radiator top and acts like a teeter-totter.

 

 

I installed my Stinger about 10 days ago. I didn't knotch it and didn't need to. IT fits fine without it. I put everything together snog but not tight, attached it to the car, fiddlled with it a bit to line everything up and then tigehtened all the clamps. Lines up fine, clears everything well and boy does it make a difference.

Can't wait to see some more info and pictures on the cold air intake.

 

You have been misinformed. The ECM always corrects the stoichiometric closed loop trims back to 14.7:1......but, when new air is introduced to the engine, it adds the appropriate amount of fuel to bring the closed loop (partial throttle) fuel trims back to 14.7:1. If the 14.7 part of the equation has more mass i.e. more airflow, then the adjusted fuel will add more power. There is never a time that you run lean in closed loop, unless you have removed the laminar airflow screen. This will cause the MAF to meter the air incorrectly. The expected air will be off when compared to the "actual" air reported by the O2 Sensors. The delta between "expected" airflow and "actual" airflow creates short term and long term fuel trims for every throttle position under WOT. The authority of the ECM is 24% for corrected positive fuel trims, and beyond that you will see a Lean code pop.

Our Stinger will never cause the car to run lean as long as you use the stock C6 MAF sensor with the laminar airflow honeycomb screen.

WOT, however will not reset itself since it is a preset table based on Power Enrichment/vs. RPM. This is Open Loop. Open loop has no connection whatsoever with the O2 sensors and takes its cue from the PE/RPM table exclusively.

There is some dispute about this, but I guarantee that it works as I have described. I spoke to the GM programming guru Dave Halett that dials in each new Corvette and designs the programs for all the vettes. He told me that there is NO connection between Long Term Trims and WOT, and there hasn't been one since the GEN III engines.

He told me that the reason additional fuel ends up on the dyno pulls is a direct result of countermeasures GM has in place to protect the cats called COTP. Shutting off COTP effectively disconnects the ECMs ability to add more fuel than the PE/RPM code prescribes. We have all seen this happen, especially on the C6, which is much more aggressive in protecting the cats.

Both heat, water temps, and load affect the COTP circuit, and there are three fuel enrichment circuits to either dial up or dial out altogether.

Recently I saw a dyno of a C6 6.6 L Stroker, with headers, cam, ported heads, HF cats, X, and Bassani exhaust, BBK intake making only 398 RWHP.

The LT Trims were around zero, but the a/f ratio was below 10:1 on the dyno. How could this be if the LTFs affected the WOT fuel cell? Well it doesn't. Most LS2 Beta testers are taking the PE/RPM target air fuel ratio and duplicating that number for the COTP value. Big mistake. The COTP code is an add on code not a target value.

If I use say 13:1 target under PE/RPM, and turn the COTP off, the LTFs make absolutely no difference on the dyno. I get a 13:1 air fuel ratio.

Check this out. I have proven that the LTFs make no difference on the dyno>

During our initial testing of the LS2 C6 Stinger, some might remember that our MAF up front got crappy results, but that was due to the COTP circuit kicking in. Our first dyno pull on two different dynos showed below 10:1 air fuel ratio on the first pull. When we reinstalled the stock intake, the air fuel ratio instantly jumped to 13.2:1 and settled at 12.25:1 at 6200 rpm, which is exactly what the PE/RPM code prescribes. We put the Stinger back on and instantly the air fuel ratio went back to 10:1.

Now how could Long Term Trims have caused this instantaneous air fuel ratio change with the car sitting on the dyno the whole time? They didn't. The car was dynoed at first with the water temps at 225 degrees for the first pull. A half hour went by before the stock pull, water temps and engine temps had dropped below 170.

Hope this helps.

Jim Hall

 

Thank you. We have started knotching the transition connector hose on orders leaving tomorrow. The reason we could not do this before, was the bridge would be too short (1/8" to be exact) in total length causing the filter to float in its position rather than sit securely against the front bumper.

We started cutting our bridges 1/8" longer to allow the knotch to receive the MAF alignment tab, thereby making a cleaner install for those that need this fitment security.

I could not see the point of this, but since folks have mentioned it a couple of times on the forums, we decided to nip it in the bud.

Jim

PS, there was one other fellow who had a problem with the filter hitting the liner. He had installed the filter upside down. The flange has an offset so that the bridge lays flat over the radiator. Look at your filter, and make sure the bottom is on the bottom. If flipped around, the filter will be way too high in its resting position.

 

I cannot explain what is going on with your intake, so email me with your name and address and we will send you a new system free of charge.

My guess is that the bridge was cut too short to begin with. That is the only explaination for your problems. We have 200 C6 Stingers on the road, and you and Jimman seem to be the only ones with this fitment problem, so lets fix it.

What I cannot understand is why folks post these problems on the forums before ever contacting us? We are easy to reach, easy to deal with, and I answer my email 12 times a day, and I would be happy to refund you in full if you are not satified. What could be easier than that?

Jim Hall
262-593-2424
jim@corvetteC5.com