Caliper Bolt Torque Specs?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio Texas
Caliper Bolt Torque Specs?
Does anyone know the torque specifications for the bolts mounting the calipers onto the caliper bracket (front and rear)? And also the #s for the larger caliper bracket bolts to the control arm? Thank you!
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,454
Likes: 4
From: San Antonio Texas
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Caliper bracket to the control arm is 125 lbs.
Caliper to the braket is 100 lbs. ( in most cases just get it as tight as you can)
ALso use red Auto Locktite on the bolts
Caliper to the braket is 100 lbs. ( in most cases just get it as tight as you can)
ALso use red Auto Locktite on the bolts
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Originally Posted by SA HEAT
Thanks...... where did you get those #s from?..... the 125 lbs, for the bracket sounds right but 100 lbs. seems a little heavy for the caliper. The bolts came off super easy. I was thinking it would be more like in the 40-50 lbs range..... and 10-04 on the Locktite, got it ready.
Brake Caliper Guilde Pin Bolt 31 N.m 23 ft lbs.
Brake Caliper Inlet Fitting Bolt 40 N.m 30 ft lbs
Personlly I crank them down as tight as I can get them. I dont think 23 or 30 is enough.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 27,420
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From: San Clemente CA
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Caliper bracket to the control arm is 125 lbs.
ALso use red Auto Locktite on the bolts
ALso use red Auto Locktite on the bolts
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 26,714
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by AU N EGL
..ALso use red Auto Locktite on the bolts
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Yes the manual says Replace the bolts when taking them off. However, I have mine out to check brake pads and or change rotors about once a month, before I head to the track. Last time I looked the bolts were $5.50 each. I do have an extra bolt but just because the repair manual says to do it, doesn't make a good idea. Many of those so called sugestions are for dealership profit not mechanical reasons.
Check the bolts, the threads for brackets for damage and replace as needed. For the average person who drives their car on the street and does not overly stress car or parts, no need to replace a perfeclty good bolt.
I go though my suppension and brake parts with a maginfieng glass before I head to the track each time. Check the torque settings of the bolts, bleed the brakes, change the oil every two events, gear & diff oil changed quarterly. Rotors every two events, brake pads last 5 events and down to 50% then changed.
So the car gets the once over four or five times before it hits the track.
Parts are replaced as the look warn out.
Yup the blue is the auto looktite, I use the red and it is not perment either especially when you use a a two foot braker bar
Check the bolts, the threads for brackets for damage and replace as needed. For the average person who drives their car on the street and does not overly stress car or parts, no need to replace a perfeclty good bolt.
I go though my suppension and brake parts with a maginfieng glass before I head to the track each time. Check the torque settings of the bolts, bleed the brakes, change the oil every two events, gear & diff oil changed quarterly. Rotors every two events, brake pads last 5 events and down to 50% then changed.
So the car gets the once over four or five times before it hits the track.
Parts are replaced as the look warn out.
Yup the blue is the auto looktite, I use the red and it is not perment either especially when you use a a two foot braker bar
