I just installed my Halltech Stinger on my C6 and love it. I am ready to install the Cold Air Induction System that I purchased with the stinger. I have spoken with Jim at Halltech but unfortunately he does not have any photos available for reference. Therefore, before boldy going where I shouldn't go without some idea of it's installation, I would like to speak with some regular C6 owners that have successfully installed or watched the installation of the Cold Air Induction System. It is not that Jim was not helpful, he was, but unlike the folks at his shop, I do not work on corvettes for a living, and quit frankly I am not familiar with some of the parts that the terminology in the instructions talks about. Therefore, I am looking for some guidance and installation tips and if you have them, some photos would be great, (I am a visual learner). Please contact me at mrkmmk@bellsouth.net.

 

I can barely change my oil, so......

 

Sorry, no photo's. I took it to my local stealerships body shop. Their Corvette specialist had it out & in, in under 15 minutes. Most novices take a couple of hours. If you're a semi-lazy-sh#t like me, you'll give them the $30 to do it for you.

Otherwise: You remove the fasteners from the lower part of the bumper cover, pull it out so you can get to the piece, remove the fasteners & pull the piece out - then just reverse the process to get the new piece in & fastened. For better looks, remove the screens & hardware & paint them gloss black.

Personally, for the amount of time an inexperienced person would take to do the job, it's well worth paying someone who's had these apart a few times to do it for you.

Just my $ .02

Rick

 

I did mine myself. I only used the instructions that came with it. Not a difficult job, just a little time consuming.

 

PM Sent.

Once you get it installed, you'll notice a huge decrease in underhood temperature. It's very worth the money I think.

 

The amount of airflow into the intake vestibule is massive. The air is rammed into the intake area, which is effectively isolated, and almost sealed off from the engine bay when the hood is closed.

The Ram Air PaK can be seen in this picture on both sides of the corner of the mouth.

The Z06 style screens are pre-intalled at Halltech, and the kit comes with extra installation parts and written instructions.

Having this opeation done at a dealership or at a bodyshop (preferred method) will take 10 to 15 minutes. Plan on 1 to 2 hours if done at home with Rhino Ramps.

The outside air temp sensor should be relocated directly next to the filter for instant intake air temps. We have found that they outside ambient air temp is exactly the same as the air at the filter inlet ALL THE TIME. This means that the ramming of outside air, will eventually help to fill the intake tract with cold air, but will never provide boost. That is literally impossible with our design.

We call it ram air because of the ramming effect and volume and velocity of the airflow available to the filter. This ram air alternative is not suseptable to hydrolock because of the routing of the airflow on the sides of the frame and shroud. NO SHROUD REMOVAL NECESSARY.


Jim Hall

 

Is this set up OK for use for a daily driver? ie. rain, puddles, etc. Basically, is it keep the engine safe from water getting in.

 

It is the only system I would and have driven in the heavy rains we get in Wisconsin. The filter sits in the stock location, but breathes higher up in the cavity than stock. Having said that, all Corvettes will hydrolock in very deep 1 foot of water or more. We pass GM's 9" rule with flying colors.

If you are deeply concerned, here is our water test location:

www.CorvetteC6.com bottom of the page.

Jim

 

Jim, do you think the Vararam intake spacer would be a benefit to those with your kit?

 

Jim,

What made you decide to start describing this as a "ram air" effect. Ram Air typically describes a situation where air is directed into an enclosed intake space (versus an open filter design), similar to what the bottom breather/airbox systems other vendors sell.

While an admirer of you ingenuity, and agree that much greater amounts of ambient air are delivered to the filter area than without the CAI (with the additional benefit of increased cool air throughout the engine compartment), I still wouldn't call this RAM AIR, as the filter is not "truly" isolated, as in a sealed airbox arrangement.

It goes without saying, (or maybe I need to say it) that this system is installed in MY C6, and I wouldn't dream of using any other...

Rick

 

I know nothing about it. Have not seen what it is or what it is suppossed to do.

 

I have a pretty good reason for calling it ram air, but I do not want to debate it here. The term is used very loosely by the industry and most kits do not even approach true ram air, which can make some boost. None of the so called ram air systems create boost on the C5 or C6, but we have an enclosed space when the hood is closed and the two entry ducts drive more air into the intake space on the C6 than the bottom breathers. The reason. Most of the pressure on the "other side" of the radiator shroud is simply lost to the radiator opening. The amount of pressure is minimal on the bottom breathers at the filter.

Take a look at the stock intake area vesitbule or cavity, and note what happens to that space with the hood closed. There is a definate recovery box formed within that cavity, which allows much less air to escape than the radiator on the opposite side of the shroud.

The heavier water stays or exits at the bottom of the Ram Air System.
Our system is not a true ram air system by any means, but it technically rams more air into the intake cavity than folks might imagine, which is why I am bringing attention to it.

True Ram Air is a fact, as measured by many of the motorcycles that sport ram air ducting. It doesn't matter to me that many folks do not believe it, but true ram air systems create some boost at around 120 mph. Besides the major motorcycle mags that have done their own testing, I have personally witnessed the benefits at the drag strip in Pro Stock Motorcycle drag racing, and AAR has done extensive research in their wind tunnel/dyno facility in Santa Ana.

AAR has found 7% more power on their ram air intake vs. standard intake on their Alligator motorcycle in the wind tunnel. They of course have a motorcycle chassis dyno for this purpose.

In recent street testing our C6 Stinger SSM Ram Air Induction ran away from a competitor's bottom breather in third gear. The Halltech car did have programming, whereas the "other" intake had stock programming. To offset that, we added 345 lbs of ballast to the Halltech C6 with 100 lbs. in the trunk and a 245 lb. passenger.

Scientific? Nope, but 345 lbs. at 7.9 lbs/hp was a 44 HP handicap equivalent for the Halltech car. Soon the dyno will spell it out.

 

Hi Jim

I watched your water test video and am a little confused, I thought the issue was with sucking in water from underneath? What does spraying water on the top of the filter at idle prove?

 

Hey Jim, Is your system CARB. legal. Im in Calif. and would like to use it if I can. Thanks.

 

Not looking for a debate at all Jim. More a matter of curiousity as you why you had previously "resisted" defining it as such - and decided to do so now.

Before you shipped (when you were understandably vague about the construction of the CAI), I had assumed that the screen unit led to some typed of duct-work (similar to the Vararam, with the dual-ducts leading to the airbox), that directed air directly into/onto the intake. The way air enters the vestibule is by far going to be more likely to be a directed, positive flow than the bottom breathers (as the path of least resistance is thru the radiator, as you stated), but the like of duct-work/enclosure for the intake means it's still not a direct-forced (or true) Ram Air. I definately believe there's going to be a positive increase in airflow into the intake at higher speeds, as a result of the design.

Alot of folks get that cheezy intake for their Harley's (the Arlen Ness one I think, with the front facing intake & butterfly), thinking it creates a RAM effect, but it completely lacks the surface area, or directed intake to accomplish this, and probably produces LESS power for folks with inject bikes, due to the buffetting of air around the MAF. On the carb'd bikes, it doesn't hurt as much, but certainly isn't a HP adder, as much as just cool looking (if that's what you actually think is "cool looking"). They try to simulate the look of the intakes on Roots Blower type top fuel cars. It's funny to see these guys think they're actually making power with them (plus they look damn stupid on an HD).

Again, not debating or putting you down - just looking for the reason why you've decided to begin using this "moniker" for the Halltech system. If you check my posts on the topic (and I'm sure you've read them), I'm quick (as a very satisfied customer) to espouse/recommend the virtue's of the Stinger/CAI system - both in design/implementation AND results...

Rick

 

Debate: I wasn't referring to my loyal customers like yourself. There are plenty of folks that simply do not understand the dynamics or the engineering behind TRUE ram air systems that make boost.

Ours is not a true ram air system, but it is certainly closer to ram air than fresh air. That was our original lamo moniker, and cold air induction is used for everything, including a simple path to outside air.

Our system delivers ram air, albeit not pressurized ram air to the air cavity better than any system we have ever engineered. It is a simple design, but it forces massive amounts of air into the airbox area, and some into the engine bay for cooling.

The C5 had screened vents on both sides of the airfoil front end, which at speed had turbulence at their openings, slowing any ram effect. If you look at the C5 fascia, it is a wing. The only high pressure zone is the license plate area. The C6 however has it's high pressure zone across the entire mouth. The new Z06 takes advantage of this by inserting a NACA style duct just above the mouth center at the very highest pressure zone.

 

I'm looking for an answer here, I'm trying to make a decision, and all of this talk of hydrolock has me worried, but then I see a video of Jim spraying a water hose directly on his air filter while the car is idling, so now I'm really confused????? Has Halltech come up with a special cotton gauze filter that does not allow water to enter??, from what I can see, all of the aftermarket units available use the same type of filter, it's the location of the filter that's in question(ie, whether it can ingest water or not) but if the filter can be sprayed directly with a water hose while the engine is running, then isn't all of this talk of water ingestion a moot point?

Please explain

 

mike47 and bluebullet,

P.M. sent

 

That video was cool, we have the same sense of humor.

 

No it is not, but you do not need to worry about SMOG until the fourth year. Then it takes exactly 1 minute to remove the system, and five more to replace the stock system.

No cutting into the shroud, so it can be transparent to the dealer as well if you are concerned about warranty issues. Try that with a bottom breather.

Jim