I looked at my stock setup yesterday while it stopped raining long enough to pull the car out and let it run a while.It seems that the stock setup has openings on either side to let air in.I noticed that after i moved that thing that covers the boxes.It would seem to me that NO AIRBOX MOD is needed because of this setup! Any thought's?

 

Almost anything can be improved upon....the question then becomes at what cost?

From what I have heard and read, the stock set-up is pretty decent especially on an otherwise stock car. As you start to mod elsewhere then I guess the benifits would become more apparent, such as free flowing exhaust, going to a larger displacement, a supercharger, etc.

For now my car is stock and if I do anything it will be on the exhaust side first.

 

Two reasons come to mind;

1. You are still using air thats been heated in the engine compartment.

2. The potential water leak on the stock paper filters.

You might be better off leaving the top cover on the filters and cutting holes in the top of each individual filter holder, that would reduce the water leak problem and allow more airflow but you would still be using heated air.

 

therein lies the question...how about cutting the bottoms of the holders to let cooler air in from outside,or as close to outside as possible,without the water dilemma.When i looked at the setup,the sides are open to air...i forgot it's hot air,though!

 

The stock filters are designed to flow from the side of the cover to the top of the filter and then to the bottom. The only way you could get air to the bottom of the filter would be to cut the radiator shroud and the filter wouldn't work upside down.. The moisture problem can be partially solved with an aftermarket oiled fiber filter.

 

The stock air box seems to flow pretty damn good. I think the best improvement would be to get it cold air.

 

Rick,any luck offing the wheels yet?I think i'll save 200-300 bucks and just lightly mod the stock box.

 

They went on ebay tonight.

 

The stock air box seems to flow pretty good,is it possible to add just the Halltech c6 stinger cold air up grade kit to get the cooler outside air in to the engine?

 

Rick,good luck w/that.Don't know about the halltech.I'd mod the stock box first,before spending 2-3-4 hundred for the outside air setup that i can get by drilling holes.

 

50,000 dollars and worried about 3-400. There are a few very good intakes on the market that address your issues and have had everything researched and dyno tested for you already.

 

what I did was to cut the primary covers off flush with some K&N's PN 33-2136's. I kept the secondary cover in place to protect against water. I cut a piece of foam rubber 1 1/2 inches thick in the middle of the air bridge (2-way tape) to prop it up over the filters, giving a very large area for air entry over the filters. Now the direction of the pleats are not an issue. It works, spent about $90 for two filters. Considering that the aftermarket air intakes are making almost nothing for $400 I'm doing ok. Good luck

andreas g.

 

Andreas,that sounds pretty cool.post some pictures if you have some!My point exactly on the 400 buck air intakes that do little or nothing...

 

Cut the primary cover off flush - with what? Having a hard time picturing what you did. Pics would be a great help, if you can do it. thanks

 

take the cover with the filter in hand and place a strip of masking tape along the outside, the height of the filter. Just get close to flush. It's not that important. Using a small hand held or power jig saw cut along the tape sand the edges and you're done. you can even use a hack saw if you don't have anything else. As for the foam rubber I used 2-way tape to secure the foam on the secondary cover. You'll probably remove a small round piece of rubber and put it in its place. If I had a scanner for my computer I would have been able to post pics of the job.Sorry.

andreas g.

 

Flush with the filters. I'll snap a photo tonight, if you want the K&N filters which I had in there a couple of weeks make me an offer. The dyno graphs below show no gain at all with the K & N's but there is 10 rwhp with the aftermarket stuff. LPE customers are claiming 20 rwtq over Halltech but that's for another time. These two graphs are with STD instead of the standard STE format but you can see the comparison of before and after K & N with modified stock intake. Also for the 160 degree therm Kool-aid guys, 001 was at 180 degrees and 002 was 195. 003 and 004 are with the K & N filter.

 

I just modified mine last week. You don't actually need the zip ties because of the way the filters are held in. Simply cut the top off the air filter covers leaving enough of the sides so that the spring clips still work. Once you get into it, it will be obvious. I was advised to retain the large cover to prevent water from leaking in between the hood and front facia and dripping on the now exposed filters.
Easy job-

 

What exactly do you get in return for all this hubba-hubba?

Even if you acheive a small increase in power do you really think it will be detectable on a car that already has 400hp?

 

There is so much misinformation on this site that I don't know what to do about a filter system (I'm sorry I can't call it an intake since to me a intake bolts to the heads and used to have a carb. on it). If LPE really makes the kind of power they say then it's well worth the money and I'm willing to pay. I can tell you that afer reading about 160 stats making power (then seeing dyno graphs where they lost power) and the whole deal about needing pressure sensors and a tool to calibrate them to run race rubber on an extra set of rims or you would not be able to turn A/H or TC off. Then after spending $200.00 for a tool and whatever for a set of sensors I went to the track and forgot to calibrate the sensors after installing the race wheels and tires. Guess what.....the car never even told me there was a problem. I ran eight 20-30 minute sessions with A/H and T/C turned off (I even ran a session in competitive mode without any problem). Where did all this crap come from about later built cars not working at the track (not being able to turn off T/C and A/H)? My car was built in May. It cost me over $350.00 to buy what I was told on this board I would have to have! I bought a $1000.00 cat back that was said here to have "NO DRONE". It had really bad drone! What I'm getting at is I really like to mod my vehicles. I had two Lightnings that made over 435 H/P and over 500 lbs. of tq. to the rear wheels. I saw on the Lightning boards guys that thought the open air filters (because they make lots of noise) made tons of extra power and they could feel it, but at the track the stock filter (in a box) with a fresh air hose running to it would run quicker. At least the Lightning filter cost less than half what a C6 air filter assembly cost. Sorry for the rant but I would really like to get my C6 to 400/400 at the rear wheels and I assumed it could be done with a few bolt on's like exhaust filter assembly and tuning. I can't spend $400.00 for a filter that may be just snake oil. Mod money is burning a hole in my pocket but I don't like throwing money away! Color me dased and confused.


Jerry

 

tell us how you really feel!! Realistically,if you want 400/400,go w/ set of kooks headers,hi-flows,and an exhaust.Then you'll get 30-40-50 hp to the wheels.I had to learn the hardway too,that all those claims were more HOT AIR than anything else!