Leaf Spring Nuts ???
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 195
Likes: 32
From: Washington State
Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
Should look just like this....
Rear
Front
Michael
Rear
Front
Michael
drop did you achieve and how long did it take to settle (approx miles?)
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 195
Likes: 32
From: Washington State
Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
Correct...after lowering...initial amound was about 3/4" and then about another 1/4" after couple hunderd miles
Michael
Michael
of the bushing (or remove it all together).
If the rubber is all removed then the aftermarket bolts you can buy must be exactly the same only no bushing right?
How low will it go front and rear without the rubber washer compared to just backing the standard configuration all the
way.?
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 38
Likes: 0
From: Buena Park Ca.
Dont take the rubber all the way off the lowering bolt, it will squeek, steel bolt against aluminum. Leave 1/4" rubber attached to the stock bolt for a proper road ride and profile. If you do remove the rubber, Zip Products makes a bushing to protect the aluminum and stop the squeek. This was a lesson learned the hard way. On the front I didnt take any rubber off, just adjusted the stock bolts all the way down.
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by HotHonda
So looking from the underside then there must be a hex head on the other end w/a thick rubber washer/grommett. To get more lowering- that's when you disassemble the suspension and reduce the thickness
of the bushing (or remove it all together).
If the rubber is all removed then the aftermarket bolts you can buy must be exactly the same only no bushing right?
How low will it go front and rear without the rubber washer compared to just backing the standard configuration all the
way.?
of the bushing (or remove it all together).
If the rubber is all removed then the aftermarket bolts you can buy must be exactly the same only no bushing right?
How low will it go front and rear without the rubber washer compared to just backing the standard configuration all the
way.?
The nut that the adjustor moves in is actually integral to the spring.
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Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 195
Likes: 32
From: Washington State
Originally Posted by Dr. Ground
Dont take the rubber all the way off the lowering bolt, it will squeek, steel bolt against aluminum. Leave 1/4" rubber attached to the stock bolt for a proper road ride and profile. If you do remove the rubber, Zip Products makes a bushing to protect the aluminum and stop the squeek. This was a lesson learned the hard way. On the front I didnt take any rubber off, just adjusted the stock bolts all the way down.
tight (or "up" looking from the top) and with the starndard bushing
removed w/ the ZIP bushing in the rear?
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 195
Likes: 32
From: Washington State
Originally Posted by Stephen B
No, there is a hex on the end of the adjustment bolt (top side above the spring). At the other end of the is a a formed rubber bumper. You can't unscrew that part (the bumper). You can trim it. I would not do away with it entirely as you would have the spring riding directly on the a-arm. Would likely make quite a racket.
The nut that the adjustor moves in is actually integral to the spring.
The nut that the adjustor moves in is actually integral to the spring.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,089
Likes: 14
Originally Posted by C6FirstVette
Should look just like this....
Front
Michael
Front
Michael
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,907
Likes: 3
From: Jupiter Florida
Lowering with OEM set up only (no after market parts which lower further than the OEM set can do)... for me lowering on the OEM setup (drops about 3/4") dials a bit of negative camber...which I like...gives a better handling characteristic and yes will slightly effect tire wear pattern.
Michael
Michael
Melting Slicks<br><img src="/forums/images/ranks/3k-4k.gif" border="0">
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,055
Likes: 276
From: Enterprise AL
Originally Posted by HotHonda
The other end is formed rubber bumper AND a hex head I believe.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 195
Likes: 32
From: Washington State
Originally Posted by Steve Snake Driver
No. The end of the rubber bumper is flat with no indentation of any sort. The end of the bumper has no flats or hex shape of any kind.