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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:41 AM
  #21  
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Naw it doesn't look that bad. I could probably get most of it off with a soaked rag. Surprisingly, the tops of the pistons have a good deal of carbon on them. Plugs looked great, not rich, but the piston tops have enough carbon on them that I would be worried about hot spots if this was a nitrous motor.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 10:55 AM
  #22  
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Let us know what specs you get out of it when you are finished with the install. I had the same thing done but went ahead and let MTI install everything and ended up with about 438hp and 380 tq numbers...Also have their G1 cam 228/232 .588 .575 113 and it runs awesome!
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by davidgwcg
Let us know what specs you get out of it when you are finished with the install. I had the same thing done but went ahead and let MTI install everything and ended up with about 438hp and 380 tq numbers...Also have their G1 cam 228/232 .588 .575 113 and it runs awesome!
I expect about the same from mine. I have 375 ft/lbs before the heads so I hope I can get a lil more out of her. Did you do an air box? I'm still sucking air through the factory paper filters and may go ahead and stick a Vortec or something on there.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 12:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by CYA-Vett
Plastic ice scraper, but you can't have too many miles on the car, it can't be too difficult to get the old one off.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 01:23 PM
  #25  
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Just an update. Got my ARP bolts. The only part that required even a minute amout of thinking was the P/S-Alt bracket. I had all that stuff out with the cam install and I hated every stinking minute of it. To get the drivers side head off, you can walk all 3 bolts out of the bracket and get enough seperation to get the head free. Easy squeezy. Putting it back on will be fun.

Want to hear one of my bone head ideas? I did not want to drain the radiator so I hooked up my shop vac to the upper rad hose going to the pump and sucked the motor dry. Lol, it made very little mess and really sucked the bolt holes in the block dry.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 01:33 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AintQik
sucked the bolt holes in the block dry.
Good man! That is probably one of the most critical parts to a head swap. Actually the VAC is a good idea, or compressed air. I've seen guys with a Q-tip and tiny rolled up paper towels over the end.
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 01:53 PM
  #27  
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Shop vac....never thought of that....dayum...you learn something new everyday just not from any tuners sharing...LOL
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Old Dec 13, 2005 | 08:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Shop vac....never thought of that....dayum...you learn something new everyday just not from any tuners sharing...LOL
To clean out the bolt holes...I went to a computer store and bought an attachment for the wet vac (really for a PC vacuum), it is about 12 inches long, about the width of a pencil and is flexible. It made quick work of the bolt holes, they were bone dry in 2 minutes...Then I cleaned off an old bolt and rethreaded it into the holes to get more of the GM loctite out, the ARP's then easily threaded in by hand.
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Old Dec 14, 2005 | 05:17 AM
  #29  
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I tape a drinking straw to the end of a compressor air hose/fitting and blow them out from the bottom up while holding a rag around it to catch the 'yuck'
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