When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Today is my birthday eve. I bought myself some heads for my birthday so, tonight the car comes apart. If anybody is interested I can keep you updated along the way. Car will get tuned Jan 9th. We made 404rwhp with a cam and longtubes. Going to try MTIs 2E heads and a new tune. I was in line to get the ETs like 1955 has but this was a deal I could not pass up.
I was just going to post questions on this . Things like taking heads off hot or cold, replace head bolts, gasket types, etc.?
My thought is to take them off and have them ported and put them back on. A local guy has a nice home built setup to do the porting.
I was going to go to a local guy here but my local guy has a flow bench. Be careful with the back yard porters... just make sure he knows what he is doing.
I'm using GM gaskets and reusing the headbolts. As far as I've learned its ok to reuse them, just like the old small blocks. I hope somebody pipes up if I'm wrong. I'm not going to stud the motor until I go big cubes. I'm not sure if I understand your hot/cold question. By the time you get to the actual head they are going to be cold anyways. I have never heard of taking heads off "hot". Don't know bout that.
Buy a set of finished heads.
The cost of the upgrade parts is fixed even if you get a cheap port/polish done.
Valves are 200
oil seals: 40
getting the seats ground for larger valves 3 angle job:Machine shop 400
Springs/titanium retainers: 400-550
porting costs even if you did it yourself: 50 bucks
clean-up mill if yu need it: 75
There is little resale on a non-brand name ported head but if you spring 2200-2400 you get the finished head with proven results....etp or afr.
Heads usually come off when the motor is stone cold. Yes, new bolts or head stud kit, and gaskets. As for porting;just be ware; of the 19 or so head vendors, all of them CNC there heads. That way there perfect port to port,and chamber to chamber. That's the whole idea is to have them the same. Hand porting no matter how good he is isn't an exact science, not by any means. If you're going to go to the trouble of R&R your good C6 heads why not have them CNC? I had some LS1 heads ported, yep they went to far and put a hole in one of the intake ports, puddyed it and it let go! Hydro-lock. My friend fredo had his heads done at the same place, the porter over ported every intake port and puddyed them up and they came apart. Needless to say I've never gone back. I'm going with ETPheads 215cc. A&A is going to do the install. As far as I'm concerned hand porting went out with high button shoes! Just my .02 cents.
Heads usually come off when the motor is stone cold. Yes, new bolts or head stud kit, and gaskets. As for porting;just be ware; of the 19 or so head vendors, all of them CNC there heads. That way there perfect port to port,and chamber to chamber. That's the whole idea is to have them the same. Hand porting no matter how good he is isn't an exact science, not by any means. If you're going to go to the trouble of R&R your good C6 heads why not have them CNC? I had some LS1 heads ported, yep they went to far and put a hole in one of the intake ports, puddyed it and it let go! Hydro-lock. My friend fredo had his heads done at the same place, the porter over ported every intake port and puddyed them up and they came apart. Needless to say I've never gone back. I'm going with ETPheads 215cc. A&A is going to do the install. As far as I'm concerned hand porting went out with high button shoes! Just my .02 cents.
But, if you still decide to do this I have a set of springs, cups and titanium retainers.
Seriously, your best bet is to buy something known. The ETs are the hot ticket right now. AFR being my second choice. I only went with the MTI because I got a sweet deal and I don't need every horse squeezed out of the thing. I have heard good things about MTI but who knows. I'm new in the Chebby world, I'm an old mustang guy.
Ok, so we have conflicting stories about the head bolts. I have reused the head bolts on 350 based motors before. I know there are torque once bolts out there. What is the verdict? I know its a cheap investment. Maybe I just answered my own question. Only real PITA is taking the power steering/Alt bracket off. Its cake.
Do not re-use the head bolts as they are torque-to-yield bolts!
Conventional head bolts simply just did not wear out. Torque to yield head bolts however, by the very nature of their design, do wear out and should NEVER be reused.
I went with the head studs .. you can come on and off with the heads using good studs.
I looked at the spec sheet and it does in fact state go to a certain torque first pass and then so many degrees next past which indicates to me that they are in fact throw away bolts.
Guess I need to order a bolt kit or some studs. Studs are nice but I don't know if I will need them in this n/a low horse motor. I gotta find some prices
Yes, DO NOT reuse the bolts. If you notice when you remove the old bolts, you will make almost one full turn before they even loosen. Good choice to use the GM gaskets, you might lose 4-7 HP by not going with a thinner cometic, but its not worth the risk of leakage.
I know a good place to order the ARP bolts PM me is you need to know where. Plus if you break a head bolt inside the block, its all over.
What size cam do you have in there now? I'm very interested in the results. How many miles are on your car?
Actually the GM manual says if work is done under warranty they do use the head bolts over.....be advised.
30-50-70 ft lbs once stretched. 22's across the top
lol, aw great. Now I have to decide on weather to spend the extra $150 or not.
One head is off. Blood all over the car. I forgot how friggin sharp aluminum heads are. When I did the GT my hands looked like hamburger meat. I'm going to wear my gloves tomorrow
Do not re-use the head bolts as they are torque-to-yield bolts!
Conventional head bolts simply just did not wear out. Torque to yield head bolts however, by the very nature of their design, do wear out and should NEVER be reused.
I went with the head studs .. you can come on and off with the heads using good studs.
Also, ensure no coolant or anything is in the head bolt locations, make double sure they are bone dry before installing head bolts and torquing. You will definitely crack the head, or the block. See, nothing to worry about
Hey, what are you guys using to clean the block of head gasket material? My trusty 3M twist lock on the die grinder will scratch aluminum and that's not a good thing.