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Cooling Fan Control Module

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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 05:43 PM
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Default Cooling Fan Control Module

I have just read all the posts regarding the pro's and con's of installing a 160 degree thermostat. I have one coming and plan on installing in my new c6 mainly because the ambient summer temps in my area average 100 degrees plus. One of the posts referred to a fan control module to lower the settings for the fan to turn on, is there such a thing, and is it available for the c6??? I really do not want or need a tuner. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert Chicoine
I have just read all the posts regarding the pro's and con's of installing a 160 degree thermostat. I have one coming and plan on installing in my new c6 mainly because the ambient summer temps in my area average 100 degrees plus. One of the posts referred to a fan control module to lower the settings for the fan to turn on, is there such a thing, and is it available for the c6??? I really do not want or need a tuner. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
AFAIK there is no aftermarket fan control module made for the C6 (though it is probably possible to cobble something up). The C6 fan speed is directly controlled by the ECM using PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) of the variable speed fan motor. You'll need someone with tuning software to change the fan speed settings in the ECM.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 07:27 PM
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Carteck has a adjustable fan control that plugs inline of the stock wiring, then you just adjust a **** to set the level you want the fans to come on. It is really great if you drag race, cause you can turn it on between runs to keep the fans on, cooling the motor and the radiator fluid between runs. With this you don't need a tune, or handheld tuner,

Also With LS based motors, I have yet to see any cons with going to a cooler thermostate. It will drop your temps between the 180 to 190 degree range, and it just seems like these motors like to run in this area, and has been independently tested on dyno after dyno and been known to make as much as 10 more hp on a stock motor compared when running in the 210 to 220 degree range, but without the fan control you will have the temps rise up if you sit for any period of time. These motors do not adjust the fuel settings or anything when they read low thermo temps like some motors, that then think the motor is cold and makes the fuel curve rich to compensate and attempts to warm the motor. This car only takes action when it detects overheating in the 240degree range, cylinder deactivation. Also cooler motor means cooler engine temps, less heat on plastic components in the engine bay, leads to longer lasting parts. So no negative effects that I have seen, oh, it does take longer for the car to warm up in very cold environments, but you and me in Nevada, probably don't have any problems.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 09:05 PM
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Default Cooling Fan Control Module

Thanks for everyone's input.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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If the fan comes on at 230 degrees why change the thermostat? Why not just have the fans come on earlier????
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 11:27 PM
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Good Question. I'd like to hear the answer to this one as well.
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Old Feb 14, 2006 | 11:31 PM
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That would work to a degree, but if your driving stoplight to stoplight, by lowering the thermostat temp it gives you more cushion: ie, if you come to a 5 minute stoplight at a 170 degree coolant temp you may reach 200-210, which I can live with, if your at 195 degrees going into the stop, you will be some where around 225 before it is your turn to go. I agree with a previous reply to my original post that these motors run better at lower temps. I had a 2000 LS1 Camaro that I installed a 160 thermo and a hyperteck to lower the fan speeds, in day to day real world driving it was a total plus.
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Old Feb 15, 2006 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by sallen619
If the fan comes on at 230 degrees why change the thermostat? Why not just have the fans come on earlier????
Some poeple have done this, but without all the fluid flowing through the motor, then the radiator fluid is then running at 180 degrees, but the fluid in the motor is still running at 205 degrees or hotter, which is the stock thermostate, thus this negates the fluid from ever actually getting to and maintaining a cool number of between 180 to 190 degrees. Gives a false reading also since the sensor is in the manifold for the temperature. If you put in a 160 thermostate, the thermostate will actaully open at about 160 to 165 degrees, now all the fluid is now rotating through the motor and radiator, and settling to a normal temp of about 185 degrees.

The whole reason the thermostate is there, is so that the water in the block heats up quickly and gets the vehicle were it is supposed to be at its running temperature. No other reason, this is why on some race vehicles, no thermostate is used at all, or even in hot climates, the thermostate is of little to no use, but in cold climates it will take quite a bit longer for the motor to heat up.
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