Ok, after 4 months of driving with my car pulling to the right, which would increase with speed, I decided that the dealer had to be pulling my chain. I had taken it to them, and they said that it did not pull. I reappointed and took my service writer for a ride, and he agreed then that it pulled to the right. They supposedly aligned it then, but it felt exactly the same. After making another appointment, they told me that it was set to spec, and that maybe the tires just wore a little off due to the bad alignment before they did it. So I finally hear from a friend about a shop that does good alignments, make an appointment and drop it off last week. They charge me $105.00, and the mechanic told me that the car was off on all 4 corners, and that it was a bitch to align properly. Took it for a drive and alas my pull was gone, and I noticed that the cars steering felt much lighter, and that my traction off the line was much better, and that the car could handle better.

I have road that I take this corner at 80 and it feels like it is right about at the limit. Now since the alignment, I took the same corner at 90, and it felt like there was still room for more. Also after a week of driving my gas mileage for some reason went up 1.5mph to an average of 20mpg with mixed driving, and I am known to be a little heavy footed.

Just the difference that it made in performance in traction and handling, I guess by actaully having all my tires flat on the ground, wow the car can handle now with all the rubber touching!!!!

God damn stupid bastard mothers at the dealer, makes me want to go down and shoot someone. I am going back and complaining to the customer service rep at the dealer, and asking for them to give me my $105.00 back. They told me the alignment was covered when I bought the car, and then they just treated me like a child, and played games with me.

I suggest for anyone who hasn't had their alignment checked and you have a pull like so many of us have had, that it is worth it to get it checked. It's like another car, and now I gotta get used to it again!

 

Dealers suck. I had to have Sears confirm that I had a bad battery before the dealer would replace it.

 

C5/C6 suspensions are easy to align. Getting the castor can take time, but the camber and toe are easy as pie.

Dealers are NOT the place to go for alignments anyway. Find a good shop or do it yourself.

I'm running in SD by setting the MAF overflow to a low number. Car runs great, and I've got my VE table nearly dialed in, however it is setting some electrical codes. I shut off the lights for P0101, 0102, and 0103, but I'm getting a "service electrical system" and "traction control disabled" readings.

I don't know if this is specific to the LS2, or if previous LSX engines did this. I had hoped to leave it MAFless, but if I can't figure this out, I'll turn it back on after dialing the VE in.

I wonder if physically disabling the MAF, or setting it to fail another way, would work better.

http://www.metricchemical.com/align.PDF

 

I had same alignment prob. Dealer fixed and gave me computer print out with old and new setting with the acceptable parimeters of each. Glad you got it fixed.

 

Had mine done twice because of the worst roads in the world here. Alignment tech told me to have it done at least once a year but thus far had it done twice this year because of these terrible freaken beat up roads. One alignment was free the other was 200.00 both done by dealer and it did take a full 2 hours each time as I watch the tech do the work. Tech told me Corvettes go out of alignment very easy and can come from factory that way.

 

alignment or not..80 about at limit and 90 maybe room for more.....ya gotta luv the speed limit in your area..

 

I always ask for a before and after print out of the alignment. This way you can see how much it was out and what was done.

 

Ops, I mean 55, and 65mph



Yeah, that is it,
55 and 65 :o

hehe, he, he



he

 

if you want to lock your alignment in, you should consider getting a set of camber plates from Hardbar. The replace the OEM concentrics, and lock the alignment in the specified locations. The set comes with a bunch of plates in 0.5mm increments, so you can lock the control arm bolts in the right place.

I run these on my street and race car. If anything moves with these in place, then there is a mechanical problem.

 

:o

 

pulled all the time, faster the speed, greater the pull.

NOw been two weeks since the alignment, and it tracks so straight now, I just love this car everyday even more now.
OH yeah, since going to non-runflats, the cars ride is so freakin nice compared to before, that it is amazing to me that it even handles better now than before with a smoother ride.

 

Where do you live where the roads are "freaken" beat up? California?

 

Gotta love that line... Have you ever seen the alignment specs for ANY car? They allow so much leaway that you could drive an SUV thru them. Within spec, and set to a specific spec are two different things. Most dealer alignments are the "set the toe and let it go"... style. Especially if they are doing it under warranty.
Find a good alignment shop, ask for before and after specs, or better yet, get the specs for your car and tell them what you want your car set to. as in anything, you usually get what you pay for...

 

What tires did you put on instead of the run-flats?

 

 

Disneyland.

 

That's very important if you are going to really dial in your suspension. Once you have an accurate alignment that's well within spec and consistant from wheel to wheel, a good suspension man can tweak the alignment to change the handling towards what you want. The all over the place factory settings on most cars aren't good enough to establish a good baseline.

 

Oh yeah, that's what I was going to do today.