Hey Dave I was just curious, exactly what specialty tools are needed? I know you need a torque wrench, and pulley puller, but what else is needed?

 

You have to tighten the balancer to 240 ft lbs so an air gun would be a plus. I know there are special tools to remove and install the crank sprocket as well as a tool to align the timing chain cover.

 

You need a small and large torque wrench, small one for the engine parts and large one for the balancer
The JPR tool holds up the lifters without fear of any of them falling.
You need a tool to press the balancer back on
You need a good spring changing tool
And you need a hose to screw into cylinders to hold up the valves while you change the springs. (Hopefully you have an air compressor)

Yes, you can do a cam swap without ANY of the mentioned tools but it's a whole lot easier with them. However, there are substitutes for most of them and many people use them, I use substitutes myself sometimes, but having the correct tools is half of the battle, especially if its your first time.

 

Since the Z06 (LS7) uses the same chain/gear as the LS2, I'm not going to bother upgrading. On my C5 I used a smaller pulley remover to get it off.

I've never used the timing cover tool, as long as you install the balancer quickly and don't tighten the cover until the balancer is fully seated, the tool is not necessary.

 

If I decide to do the whole job in a day, that is fine, but since I was planning on documenting everything, I might do it over a weeks time, a couple hours a night. I'll let you know....

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1359046


ARRRggggghhhhhH!!!

 

Hey Dave, sorry for all the ?s just trying to make sure I do this right. How exactly do you pressurise the cylinder with a hose and compressor? I read that there are other tools for holding up the valves. I have also read where people are using 5/16 rods to hold up the lifters, have you tried this method? Do the rods go through the holes on the front of the engine? Thanks again

 

If you've ever used a compression tester, you will see how it screws into the spark plug hole. If you put 80-100lbs of presssure into that hose, as long as your compressor does not leak down, and it shouldn't, that is more than enough pressure to hold the valve up. You can also place each piston at TDC, then when you remove the spring, the valve can only drop to the top of the piston, that method works too, but take a little longer.
The 5/16th rod is simply a crude version of the JPR tool. I've used both, but the fit needs to be pretty snug. The rod you fabricate must have the side shaved off of it (the tool designed for this is not round), so basically you can only make it out of wood unless you can cut a perfect 2 foot line in a piece of steel. If the (wooden)rod expands at all while inside the motor, due or temp, oil, etc...you run the risk of it snapping off inside while inserting or removing it. It's probably a longshot that it would happen, but why risk it? Again, both methods work. One is cheaper, but the other safer. You can also use 16 pen magnets to hold up the lifters, or instead of a wooden rod, some guys have used a 5/16 rubber fuel line. You can use tricks, but my goal was to make it easier for everyone.
Yes, the rods slip in through the front of the engine and run the length of the block.

Dave

 

Dave,


What would a bad coilpack cause your car to do? Mine has a rough idle after driving it in the rain....could a faulty coilpack cause this and or wire?

 

CYa Vette, what a great site. Can't believe I haven't seen that before. (ls1howto). Thanks.

 

All this talk about changing a cam .............I just wanna know what to get for a daily driver and a weekend racer......... What would be the best set up?? Of course i want as much as possible and i dont really car about legal or emissions or any of that stuff so .......... any suggestions would be appreciated

 

This web site is EXCELLENT. Every Corvette owner that does DIY will appreciate this....