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Question on camshaft install on a Vette. I have done Ford before but required to set backlash on valve train etc. With a roller cam and lifters is it required to set all that or a specific torque setting only? Is it fairly easy to get the swap done not having to remove a bunch of bs and all that? I am not there to look at it and dont have a shop manual yet just wondering how much of a pain it is. Can someone shed some light and details. Thanks
as long as the new cam has the same base circle as your car does now, then you just torque them as specified in the owners manual. If you are installing a cam with the LS6 base circle in and LS2, for instance, and running the stock valves, then you will need longer pushrods.
The other option is to buy adjustable rocker arms and set the backlash as you did on your ford (3/4-1 turn past contact). OEM rockers are NOT adjustable, and shimming weakens the rocker bosses.
If you were closer I'd help you out. No manual is needed. Just remove everything in front of the throttle body including the radiator but not the condensor. Then you have to loosen the rack so you can move it out of the way to remove the balancer.
The LS1 is 99% the same as the LS2 so you can look here for full instructions.
Don't get scared, it's faily easy to swap a cam. If you get stuck, we'll help you out...
My first cam swap took me the better part of a weekend, now I can do them in less than a day. Good Luck
Also, go to LS1Tech.com and search. With the LS1/LS2, you don't have to remove the intake manifold to do a cam swap, but you need to do something to keep the lifters from falling into the crankcase. Some people spin the cam and rely on the friction to keep the lifters from falling, this is referred to as the Russian Roulette method. Other people use pen magnets to hold the lifters up, however, sometimes people lose the magnet and can't get it out. I used two 5/16" steel rods that go through a couple of holes in the front of the engine block that hold the lifters up after you spin the old cam.
Overall, it's not a real hard install, just take your time and have patience.
You'll have to take the intake off and the valley cover off to get to the lifters. You don't have to do that with the LS1/LS2. It's so much quicker to spin the cam, install the 5/16" rods, and pull the cam out.
anybody in the northern VA area done their own before?
Me, but I'm in PA
Seriosly, give it a shot, just dont' set any timeframes the first time you do it. If it takes 2 weekends then so be it. Just make sure you have a few special tools or it will be impossible to do.
You'll have to take the intake off and the valley cover off to get to the lifters. You don't have to do that with the LS1/LS2. It's so much quicker to spin the cam, install the 5/16" rods, and pull the cam out.
did you forget the part about pulling the heads??? YOU ARE NOT GETTING THE LIFTERS OUT W/ THE VALLEY COVER AND INTAKE OFF, the heads need to come off to get to the lifters
i've done cam swaps on ls1/2/6's, the ls2 is the same as the ls1 when swapping out a cam w/ the exception being the cam position sensor p/u on the timing chain cover and the p/s,alt bracket doesn't have to be moved
most likely the cam going in will have a reluctor ring in front of the 5th bearing journal for the ls1/6 cars, ls2 cams are not backwards compatible(no reluctor, besides who would use an '01 Z06 spec cam?)
did you forget the part about pulling the heads??? YOU ARE NOT GETTING THE LIFTERS OUT W/ THE VALLEY COVER AND INTAKE OFF, the heads need to come off to get to the lifters
i've done cam swaps on ls1/2/6's, the ls2 is the same as the ls1 when swapping out a cam w/ the exception being the cam position sensor p/u on the timing chain cover and the p/s,alt bracket doesn't have to be moved
most likely the cam going in will have a reluctor ring in front of the 5th bearing journal for the ls1/6 cars, ls2 cams are not backwards compatible(no reluctor, besides who would use an '01 Z06 spec cam?)
drop the cradle about an inch to get the rack out
Sorry, I wasn't sure how much you had to remove because I didn't remove any of it to replace the cam. I just used the 5/16" steel rods inserted to hold up the lifters. Easiest cam swap I've ever done.
I think you need to remove the heads to get to the lifters. Removal of the manifold and the valley cover will not expose the lifters. At least they didn't on my LS type motors.
would be nice if you did a tour with specific dates set up, you'd probably get enough customers from this forum alone to make it work (hint-hint)
I'm torn whether to do a cam now, or wait for the racing season to end but I have decided that when I do it, I'll make you guys a documentation manual with pictures and text. I figure it will ad a few hours to the install but it will help explain a lot of questions people have and might just convince a couple to do the job themselves. I think for most of you it's simply fear of the unknown.
I also have another thought, and don't conceive this the wrong way, I'm not looking for free/cheap stuff, but there are a couple of specialty tools needed for the install. If a few people that are sure they will do their own install want to poll some money togther we can purchase the tools then mail them to each other for the job. Aside from a pulley remover, I borrrow the other tools from local friends/mechanics because it's not worth it to me to buy them. Just an idea, I don't care either way, just remember, tools are crucial to make the job easier. A dropped lifter or valve adds a ton of time to the job