I just bought an OBDII reader for the c6 vette. The instruction said to turn ignition on without starting....to read the code.
How do i do that with the push button start?

 

If I remember correctly, press and hold the bottom portion of the start button for 5 or 10 seconds. In other words, press the "accessory" part of the button and hold until you see the gauges light up, etc.

If that doesn't work, press the top part of the start button (as if you were about to start the car), except do not press the clutch down while doing so. The electronics will come on but the engine will not start. Not sure if you can fool the car like this with an auto tranny.

 

What reader did you buy. I'm going to buy the Equus Code Reader model 3130 for about $200.

 

Check out the AutoXray EZ-SCAN 4000. It's an excellent unit and includes the Controller Area Network (CAN) protocol needed for the C6.

http://www.autoxray.com/products.asp...scanners&id=31

 

I press ACC and my ODBII reader works.

Tom

 

http://www.diydiagnostics.com/
This one had the CAN function. It was also recomend by other members of this forum.

 

 

ok, here is a silly question

What is the difference between the 65 dollar one from here

http://www.diydiagnostics.com/

and the 370 dollar one from here

http://www.autoxray.com/products.asp...scanners&id=31

 

I tried both of these method...nothing on the instrument panel light up

 

Tooltopia has the Autoxray EZ Scan 4000 listed for $241. (It's not $370)
http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?P...D&ProdID=10657

 

Thanks for the information. By the way all of the Equus models are now CAN protocol. From my understanding only the Tech 11 will read all of the C6 codes. It is very expensive. My other car is an XJ8 and I want to be able to use the reader on it also. The same problem there. Jaguar has many codes that only their reader will read. The inexpensive reader's will read all the smog related codes and some others.

 

The 3030 will work just fine and it's available at Walmart for $70. It is CAN-enabled. HTH.

 

Ok, here's the deal... I just went down to my car to test all of this with my EZ Scan 4000.

When you enter the car, you will see a small red light glowing on the start button. Everything is off. The OBDII scanner will not be able to retrieve data in this mode.

If you press the lower half of the start button quickly, one time, the red light goes out and an orange light on the button comes on under the letters "ACC". Accessory mode is now on. The scanner WILL communicate with the car at this point, but apparently will NOT read ALL data in this state. For instance, when viewing "throttle position" on the scanner in accessory mode, if you press the accelerator pedal down, the scanner will NOT show the change in throttle position. There are a few other things it will not show either. It will however give you some data such as current coolant temperature, etc, etc.

If you press the lower half of the start button and HOLD it down for a good 5 or 10 seconds, you exit accessory mode and the ignition comes fully on (engine does not start though). In this state, the start button is glowing fully green. In this mode, the scanner appears to be able to read ALL info in real-time... thus if you press the accelerator pedal, you WILL see the throttle position reading change on the scanner as you move the pedal in real-time.

So, I have learned here that in order to be able to read everything in real time with the engine NOT running, accessory mode is not good enough... you need to turn the ignition fully on. Again, this is done by holding the ACC part of the start button down for approximately 5 seconds. You will know when the ignition turns fully on once you here the chimes start ringing, your DIC greeting will come up on the display... and if in a dark garage, your auto headlights will go on, etc.

The EZ Scan 4000 is nifty... shows lots of data. Interestingly, my car has 3026 miles on it, but the scanner said that the codes have not been cleared in 3008 miles (and I never had a trouble code). Hmmm... I guess someone cleared the codes or the battery went dead or was disconnected at 18 miles. Ironically I picked up the car with 18 miles on it. Guess I'll never know what happened there... but car is fine so no worries. But can anyone speculate WHY the dealer may have purposely cleared codes or disconnected the battery prior to me receiving the car? Is there something devious they could have done to the car that disconnecting the battery (and clearing memory) would help hide? I know these cars have a "black box" memory (recording speed, etc), but I thought this could not be erased with a mere battery disconnect...?

Scanner also shows that the car has experienced 82 warm up cycles in the last 3008 miles. Interesting... I assume this means I have started and warmed up the car 82 times since I've owned it... that's an average of 37 miles driven per start up. Makes sense I guess though I thought the average would be higher since I often take longer trips... but I guess the occasional trip to the local grocery store, Home Depot etc brings the average down.

With a clutch car, the ignition WILL turn on (without having the engine start) if you press the start button without having the clutch pedal depressed. I know this because it happens to me occasionally when I accidentally do not press the clutch down far enough when going to start the car. Everything comes on but the engine will not start. Then I press the clutch down a little more, press the button again and the engine starts.
Make sure your FOB is inside the car when you try to go into ACC mode or turn ignition on... if FOB is not in car, nothing will go on.

 

Good information and write up. I'm looking foreward to buying one.