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Question About DIY Exhaust Install

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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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Default Question About DIY Exhaust Install

I'll be installing the GM Aggressive Exhaust (Off-Road version) later this week using the stock H pipe and have a couple of questions:

I backed my car up onto my Rhino Ramps and there seems to be plenty of room to work. Is there any reason I need to have the car up any higher or on jack stands to swap out the exhausts?

I'd also appreciate any tips any of you might have to make the job faster/easier.

As I understand, this is essentially the Borla Stinger/Aggressive exhaust sytem manufactured with GM's name.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by C-INRED
I'll be installing the GM Aggressive Exhaust (Off-Road version) later this week using the stock H pipe and have a couple of questions:

I backed my car up onto my Rhino Ramps and there seems to be plenty of room to work. Is there any reason I need to have the car up any higher or on jack stands to swap out the exhausts?

I'd also appreciate any tips any of you might have to make the job faster/easier.

As I understand, this is essentially the Borla Stinger/Aggressive exhaust sytem manufactured with GM's name.
I see you can't wait until next week .....Hey I would probably PM Cajunspeed or 2HD's2Vette's as they put theirs on in about 1 1/2 to 2 hours max!

Goodluck!

Go Boilers!
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:29 PM
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I'll do that...thanks.

Nope, just can't wait!
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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I don't know how tall your ramps are?? I had the car approx. 12" off the ground, It was a little tight (I am 5-11" 190) but not to bad. AS long as you follow the directions you should be fine. Proper torque lbs. Is important for the "seal" without over'tightening. The one thing I would offer is.... the directions say to pull the stock muffler/pipe on the drivers side FIRST, I could not get it out (with the pipe bend over the axle and all) The directions say you "MAY" have to drop/remove the rear sway bar. I didn't want to do that unless I had to. I went to the pass. side, and wiggled that one free pretty easy, Then that freeed up much more space and the drivers side wiggled right out. The GM NEW muffler/pipe is a 2 piece with clamps, not a welded one piece to the h-pipe like stock. The new one goes in like a piece of cake cause of that. Did you get them yet? What do you think of the quality? I love the tips over stock, Jon
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 08:05 PM
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Thanks for the quick response Jon.

My Rhino's are only about 7", so I wouldn't be as far off the ground as you were. You said it was a little tight. Was it you under the car that was tight or clearance to snake the pipes out or both?

Did you have the car on jack stands?

I wonder if you have more clearance to work over the axle if the car is on stands vs. sitting on the ramps?

I could jack it up and put it on stands but would probably need to pick up another pump jack and a couple more stands.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by C-INRED
Thanks for the quick response Jon.

My Rhino's are only about 7", so I wouldn't be as far off the ground as you were. You said it was a little tight. Was it you under the car that was tight or clearance to snake the pipes out or both?

Did you have the car on jack stands?

I wonder if you have more clearance to work over the axle if the car is on stands vs. sitting on the ramps?

I could jack it up and put it on stands but would probably need to pick up another pump jack and a couple more stands.
I ment a little tight as in the working/comfort area not the pipes and possible clearence. I used 4 jack stands/pucks. I went out and looked, at the point that I had my stands at was about 10" my 12" guesstimate was a little much. I would think it could be done, but more height would sure save some naughty verbage from you during install I think 4 jack stands is good to have around anyhow, they don't cost much. I did the painted calipers (mike/corvettepilot did the powder-coating) and the 4 made it a snap. Depending on how much DIY kind of person you are, they would be good for future use IMO.

Last edited by 2HD's2vettes; Jul 31, 2006 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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Okay, enough already, get them installed, and let's hear a report on the exhaust note, drone, tone......

I'm looking at the same pipes, but unfortunately the $750 deal is no more.

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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 2HD's2vettes
I ment a little tight as in the working/comfort area not the pipes and possible clearence. I used 4 jack stands/pucks. I went out and looked, at the point that I had my stands at was about 10" my 12" guesstimate was a little much. I would think it could be done, but more height would sure save some naughty verbage from you during install I think 4 jack stands is good to have around anyhow, they don't cost much. I did the painted calipers (mike/corvettepilot did the powder-coating) and the 4 made it a snap. Depending on how much DIY kind of person you are, they would be good for future use IMO.
Yeah, you're right. I'm off to pick up two more jack stands and another pump jack tomorrow...Costco has a nice pump jack for 99 bucks. Then I can just jack up both ends at once and set it on the jack stands. I already have the rectangular BMW pucks installed.
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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 10:02 PM
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First of all, do you have 4 ramps? Don't forget, you have to work in the front of the car as well, just behind the front wheels, to get the H-pipe off. Even if you're keeping the H-pipe, it comes off temporarily during installation.

I think 7" might be enough. It will be tight, but might be enough. I too used 4 jack stands, but I'm not sure I got it up any more than 7". I was limited by a crappy jack - since replaced. See pic below.

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Old Jul 31, 2006 | 11:54 PM
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It looks to me that there will be more clearance to snake the pipes out by putting it on stands so the rear suspension hangs down like in your photo. So...I'm spending a little more on tools which is usually the best way to go in my experience.

As my father always used to say..."the right tool for the job."
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 02:14 AM
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I salute all of you who installed exhaust on ramps/jack stands. I had access to a lift and even with that it was a sweat pouring/cursing job.

Maybe it helps to lie on your back while lifting things up into it, instead of military pressing up to a lifted car. Anyhow, that H-pipe sure as hell was on there tight on mine (~25,000 miles at time of install).

All I can suggest is to spray a lot of WD40 into the pipe mating areas.

I have the Borla Touring, so probably similar to your GM agressive/Borla Stinger. Just had a lot of trouble with the H-pipe to over the axle pipe removal/reinstalling. I would suggest slightly "opening" up the mouth of the pipes that will go over the mating pipes to allow for smoother mating.
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 05:31 AM
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My stock exhaust was very easy to remove using ramps. You do need the front wheels up a bit also to get at the front of the H pipe



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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 12:06 PM
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Django...how far do the Race Ramps get your tires off the floor?
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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The 67" Race Ramps are 10" tall.
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Old Aug 1, 2006 | 09:01 PM
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Ouch that looks tight...esp. up front. At least it sure looks that way from the pics.
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Old Aug 2, 2006 | 10:10 PM
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Well...after all that preparation and helpful advice...and waiting a week for shipment...my exhaust arrived yesterday and was damaged. One of the inlet pipes was smushed. He offered to ship me a replacement exhaust but I decided to just ship it back for a refund.

So, I'm back in the market for a nice sounding (and hopefully droneless) exhaust system for my C6 A6.

All suggestions/recommendations are welcome!

At least I'm now all prepared for the install when I do find the right system.

Last edited by C-INRED; Aug 3, 2006 at 06:27 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2006 | 04:20 PM
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Sorry, dude. That blows.
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