Thermostat install?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Oregon Ohio
Thermostat install?
I see that thermostats are available with and without the cast housing. This makes for a big price difference.
Can just the thermostat be easily installed into the existing housing? If so, what is the process? How much anti-freeze will I loose?
Also, what would be the best temp settings for the fan/fans on for a 180 degree stat?
Thx
Can just the thermostat be easily installed into the existing housing? If so, what is the process? How much anti-freeze will I loose?
Also, what would be the best temp settings for the fan/fans on for a 180 degree stat?
Thx
Last edited by rcwck; Aug 3, 2006 at 07:26 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Fl
St. Jude Donor '07
All you need is the thermostat. It's an easy install, BUT you must be carefull refilling. You can trap air in the motor and fry it! Simple fix; there is a small aluminum tube going into the block or head. It's right by the throttle body on the driver's side. Disconnect it and fill radiator until fluids comes out the tube. This pushes the air out of the block.
Otherwise motor will heat up fast. Buy a gallon of antifreeze. Fans are a matter of choice and your tuner will have a good reccomendation. I like them to come on around 196.
Otherwise motor will heat up fast. Buy a gallon of antifreeze. Fans are a matter of choice and your tuner will have a good reccomendation. I like them to come on around 196.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 26
From: Austin Texas
IMHO; GM has a reason for requiring a new t'stat housing for a t'stat change. The housing is a machined casting that is quite thin in places. Maybe it changes dimensions with use and heat?
The housing isn't that expensive. I drained 2 gallons of coolant via the radiator petcock, swapped in the new t'stat and new housing, refilled with 1 gallon of new coolant, let it drain down, added more coolant, etc. The car sat overnight and I was able to add most the remainder of the 2 gallons of new coolant. Started the car, let it heat to 215°, shut it off, let it cool and was then able to add the rest of the replacement 2 gallons of coolant. The car now runs noticeably cooler and with no problems.
The housing isn't that expensive. I drained 2 gallons of coolant via the radiator petcock, swapped in the new t'stat and new housing, refilled with 1 gallon of new coolant, let it drain down, added more coolant, etc. The car sat overnight and I was able to add most the remainder of the 2 gallons of new coolant. Started the car, let it heat to 215°, shut it off, let it cool and was then able to add the rest of the replacement 2 gallons of coolant. The car now runs noticeably cooler and with no problems.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,990
Likes: 1
From: Corpus Christi Texas
I would certainly get the car tuned to have the fans come on at a higer percentage than the stock setting. On my original tune, I thought the tuner had programmed the fans to come on at say 90% at 196. The car's temp would be around 170 cruising down the highway but would get up to 210 while sitting in traffic. Usually, you can hear the fans come on as well. When the heat wave hit and the temps were above 100 degrees, the car's temps climbed to 220+ before I heard the fans come on. Well sure enough, the tuner didn't change the fan settings. Now they are set and the car has yet to go above 196, even in 100 degree heat. I can hear the fans on as well at that temp. With the cooler weather, the temps haven't gone above 192 in traffic. So prior to the fan mod, most runs made at the track were in the 210 range since I had to sit in line to run. Even when I iced the intake, by the time I got to run, the temps were around 200 and took time to come down.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 10,399
Likes: 26
From: Austin Texas
The 160° t'stat and computer reset of the fans works great.
98°, 40% Relative Humidity today and the DIC temp never got over 192° (188°,190° on the dash gauge) at idle in traffic, runs at 180° DIC (176°, 178° gauge) at 70MPH cruise. Looks like I lost 12° to 15° by doing the change.
98°, 40% Relative Humidity today and the DIC temp never got over 192° (188°,190° on the dash gauge) at idle in traffic, runs at 180° DIC (176°, 178° gauge) at 70MPH cruise. Looks like I lost 12° to 15° by doing the change.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,892
Likes: 1,200
From: Ft. Myers FL
Yep, I've notice the LS2 runs hotter than the LS1 did, and I put one in that car. I think I'll be adding one in my C6 too. It's not a big difference, but, this past summer has been hot. If the engine runs better 10/12 degrees cooler, why not put one in??
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,549
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke Virginia
Filling radiator question. I just fill the overflow tank and run the engine. Watch your temp. If the level does not drop and the temp gets too high, I turn it off and wait a while. after doing this a couple of times, I am at full capacity with no heating issues. I find this is the easiest way. The process takes 5-10 minutes.
