When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I purchased a the new lowering bolts from WCC and in the instructions it say:
ONCE CAR IS SUSPENDED YOU CAN START WITH THE FRONT SUSPENSION. FIRST REMOVE LOWER SHOCK MOUNT BOLT. THEN REMOVE LOWER BALL JOINT NUT AND DROP THE LOWER CONTROL ARM DOWN TO ALLOW ACCESS TO THE SPRING ENDS. REMOVE EXISTING SPRING BOLTS
I need to know when I removed the Bolt on the Lower Ball joint, why the lower control arm did not drop?
I'm willing to post instructions and photo's once I can get this started.
I got frustrated and refastened everything back up till I resolve the Ball joint issue, the bolt (Ball Joint) screw has an Allen opening on top and the nut that threads onto it seems to be threaded threw the lower control arm? A major PITA...
I ran into the same issue when I lowered mine last month .... ended up cutting off the rubber bushings with an 8" blade on a sawsall for the rear ... I'd still like to get the WCC bolts, I think they'll drop it another 1/2"
Are you making the run to Castroville - Dublin Hooters this Sunday?
I purchased a the new lowering bolts from WCC and in the instructions it say:
I need to know when I removed the Bolt on the Lower Ball joint, why the lower control arm did not drop?
Has Anyone attempted this and what did you do?
Thanks
Try lowering it in the front with the stock bolts in there. I think virtually everybody that has lowered the car has found that the OE front bolts will allow you to lower the front as low as you want it.
The rear is where you need to either cut the bushings or put in the WCC bolts to get it lower.
I ran into the same issue when I lowered mine last month .... ended up cutting off the rubber bushings with an 8" blade on a sawsall for the rear ... I'd still like to get the WCC bolts, I think they'll drop it another 1/2"
Are you making the run to Castroville - Dublin Hooters this Sunday?
Unfortunately not, I have another commitment, I do want to go on some runs though
I have a Pickle Fork and will attempt again hopefully this weekend.
I will photo the process hopefully so if any are to follow,
They will have a visual also.
I'm also installing my resent Borla Exhaust purchase Part #140129
this weekend, already have the stock pulled out so all I need to do is slap the Borla in
Look dude, this is a no brainer. I did mine in two hours by my self a month ago. Use the stock lowering bolts to lower the front. They will get the front low enough. On the rear jack the car up remove the lower ball joints bolt on each side, sway bar bolts, pry the the A arm loose from the bottom. Have a jack under the a arm so it will not just fall down. Unscrew the bolt with a, I think with a 11mm wrench,. This is one of the easiest things things I have done to my vert.
I lowered with the stock bolts in front and cut 2/3 of the rear bushings. You can cut the rear bushing without removing the ball joint. Remove the rear shock lower bolt with a jack under the control arm and you can drop the control arm enough to get a sawzall in and cut the bushing. Less than an hour job. Mine came out 1 inch lower in the front and 1 1/2 inch in the rear with this method. Good Luck.....and Praise the Lowered
just unbolt the lower a arm and the lower shock mount. This will give you easy access to remove the ride height adjuster. if you eyeball the location of the alignment cam, it will be good enough to drive to an alignement shop. I have mine almost all the way down using WCC rears and cut the front bushings another 3/4". Looks great. The tire has about a 1/2" to the wheel well.