hey guys, im kind of new in upgrading cams and so on. just wanted to get some feedback on which cams are good, and what i need to know on any further steps on upgrading it. how much will i be looking at for labor?
while upgrading the cam im going to be doing the pulley at the same time to get it over with. i was told that the ASP underdrive pulley was good. is that true? or is there one better?

if you guys can give me some information on that i would really appreciate it! thanks.

 

if you need any of the cars information, its a 6 spd. and the other mods are:

B&B Long Tube Headers 1 3/4
B&B Bullets PRT Exhaust system
Halltech Stinger Intake
Ported Throttle body
160 thermostat
Dyno tuned

and maybe the Lingenfelter 100mm MAF

 

Which cams "are good" for what? Do you want to be able to claim that you have more horsepower than your buddies? Do you want to win at drag races to the exclusion of driveability? Do you want maximum power in the 2-4,500RPM range for everyday street fun? Do you want better gas mileage?

 

i want to get the most horsepower i can out of it. this is an everyday car as well. this car isnt intended on going to the tracks or anything, just another mod to increase the HP. i do want something reliable, and something that wont be needing to make any other adjustments. thanks for your help.

 

Doesn't work that way. Have to trade one for the other. Do you want power or driveability?

 

Sounds like he needs a turbo

 

Here are a few questions for you, and some items to consider:

1. Are you also planning to get aftermarket heads? If not, you don't want to go too big on the cam, as the stock heads will only flow a certain amount of air, and only tolerate a certain amount of lift.
2. Are you planning to change your gears? If you're planning to stick with the stock rear end ratio, you will need more power at lower RPMs.
3. Do you like a nasty sounding, lopey idle, or do you prefer to stay stealthy? This will affect your choice of LSA.
4. Do you have to be able to pass emissions testing with an exhaust sniffer? If so, you may not wish to go too high on duration.
5. Do you plan to have the car re-tuned on the dyno? Almost any big cam will benefit greatly from a re-tune, especially to maintain idle quality and street manners. Even a relatively mild cam will benefit from a dyno tune.

Even after answering all these questions, you will get many differing opinions. Lately, everyone seems to think that bigger is better, as a good tuner can really tame down a wild cam. However, that also means more tuning.

Probably the most reliable "old standby" choice would be the 224/224 grind on a 112 LSA (more lope) or 114 LSA (less lope). WIth stock heads, I would avoid the higher lift grinds, stay under .600" lift, which will let you use single valve springs.

 

im not planning on changing my heads or my gears in the rear end. so im assuming what your saying is im going to need more power at lower RPMs.

i do want the idle to be stealthy. almost like stock. dont like the rumbling sound. especialy if its an everyday car.

the car is going to be tuned after the cam is installed.

so basically im looking for a more mid sized cam. any suggestions ?

thanks for your help guys!

 

SpinMonster has a 224/230 cam for sale, might work well for you. It should work OK with stock heads & single springs, & has a 114 LSA for a clean idle. It won't be completely stealthy, but won't sound like a Top Fueler either. Actually, your ported throttle body may affect the idle quality more than the cam.

You will need to buy some springs for it, and hardened pushrods. Forget the titanium retainers. Installation could be a bit pricey, and you may need to have the front end realigned afterwards, as they have to drop the steering assembly during the install.

You should be around the 420-430 HP range EZ, maybe more.

 

so other than upgrading the cam i need to purchase springs and pushrods as well? what company do you recommend for all this?

 

Cam $400
Dual Spring Kit $400
Hardened Push Rods $110
Timing Cover Gasket $14
Water Pump Gaskets $12
Front Seal $23
Crank Bolt $3
Oil $50
Oil Filter $10
Dexcool $25
PS Fluid $8

I think thats it...

 

thanks CYA that really helps! now were should i be getting all this? anyone you guys recommend?

 

For $700 you can get a cam, springs, and push rods at Texas Speed, throw in a cam swap kit and a 160 stat, your looking at under $800 to your door.
The fluids you can get at any auto shop.

 

212/232 .550/.585 114LSA

It's what i run in my C6. Stocklike idle, great low end torque and a nasty top end.

Ofcourse many will say to go bigger but F that.

 

The reason for going bigger is because logically you would not want to void a warranty for minimal gains. Some are ok with that, there is nothing wrong with that.
I just see no reason to open up a perfectly good motor for 20 RWHP when you can get 50RWHP for the same cost. It's just preference.

 

The cam, valve springs, and hardened pushrods you can get from Comp Cams. You should be able to get an entire kit from one or more of our vendors, such as MTI, Thunder Racing, Tom Byrne, etc. If you are planning to have the entire package installed professionally, your installer should be able to get you everything you need.

IMHO, you do not need double valve springs for a mostly street-driven car. Comp Cams makes a very popular "918" spring for the LS1, is a single "beehive" design very much like the OEM springs from GM. However, some guys really like a double spring design.

 

thanks guys!! this is really helping me out!! just one last question, what the difference between a single and a double valve spring design? what are the pros and cons?

 

The most popular single valvesprings are from Comp Cams --- there is a "915" model, and a stiffer "918" model. The "918" is rated OK for cams up to .600" lift, so many of the XE-R lobes at .58x" lift are OK. These springs are very much like the OEM GM springs in that they are a "beehive" design, where both the coils and the spring material are oval, rather than round. This gives the spring a beehive shape when viewed from the side.

Double valve springs have an inner and an outer spring. The advantages are that they can be made stiffer to accommodate higher lifts, they have less harmonic resonance, and they are safer --- if the outer coil breaks, the inner coil will still support the valve and allow the engine to run. The disdvantage is that they can be more expensive, and some of them require that the head be machined at the base of the spring. Many racers who spin their engines over 6500 RPMs on a regular basis prefer double springs.

 

Void a warranty how? With a sleeper cam they're never going to know it's in there.

All the dealership needs to know is that i have LT's, X pipe, Catback and a Vararam. Everything else is stock.

 

what about a split type cam? There's another thread regarding this type of cam.