Question, air intake temp sensor / relocation
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Safety Car
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From: Massachusetts , USA,
Question, air intake temp sensor / relocation
I have a 2007 C6 / A6 , Considering a Calloway Honker, however , even with CAI , it is my understanding the stock C6 intake air tempture is measured by a device located on top of the radiater & consequently gets heat soaked resulting in an inacurate / high reading in excess of 100 deg..that retards the spark advance , with loss of HP & Tourque 
has anyone adressed this ? via insulating the sensor or relocating it downstream with a jumper ? I have a 66 B/B that is so much easer to tune & work on...before trying to figure out a solution on my 6C would like some opinions.....has anyone address this situation ? Thanks ,The Dog 
Woof
has anyone adressed this ? via insulating the sensor or relocating it downstream with a jumper ? I have a 66 B/B that is so much easer to tune & work on...before trying to figure out a solution on my 6C would like some opinions.....has anyone address this situation ? Thanks ,The Dog Woof
Last edited by StrayDog; Aug 30, 2006 at 12:57 PM.
Drifting
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From: az
Originally Posted by StrayDog
I have a 2007 C6 / A6 , Considering a Calloway Honker, however , even with CAI , it is my understanding the stock C6 intake air tempture is measured by a device located on top of the radiater & consequently gets heat soaked resulting in an inacurate / high reading in excess of 100 deg..that retards the spark advance , with loss of HP & Tourque has anyone adressed this ? via insulating the sensor or relocating it downstream with a jumper ? I have a 66 B/B that is so much easer to tune & work on...before trying to figure out a solution on my 6C would like some opinions.....has anyone address this situation ? Thanks ,The Dog Woof
has anyone adressed this ? via insulating the sensor or relocating it downstream with a jumper ? I have a 66 B/B that is so much easer to tune & work on...before trying to figure out a solution on my 6C would like some opinions.....has anyone address this situation ? Thanks ,The Dog Woofthe iat is part of your maf, it wouldn't be some simple bolt on / plug and play to move only the iat to a different location and have the maf sitting in stock location at this present time.
Last edited by cbrf4i1; Aug 30, 2006 at 01:56 PM.
Drifting
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From: az
maybe someone with data logging software can confirm this heat soak situation. is it really that bad? i know spinmonster mention something like 70 degree temp outside, and he drove for over 10 minutes (i think he said at high way speed) and the iat still shows 150 degrees or so. i had mod halltech cai and home make panels to help direct these out side air to the air box area then to the top of engine compartment. at this time of year even in AZ, when i pop the hood it really isn't that bad. anyone wants to do some data logging?
Melting Slicks
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From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
I was thinking about doing something like this myself. Either moving the sensor or insulating the MAF housing, maybe both. I just have to get some time to actually look and think. Maybe someone else will come up with something in the mean time. I know on my previous vehicle they made IAT extensions so you could mount the sensor further from a heat source. Anyone know of something like that for the LS2?
Drifting
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From: az
Originally Posted by k0bun
I was thinking about doing something like this myself. Either moving the sensor or insulating the MAF housing, maybe both. I just have to get some time to actually look and think. Maybe someone else will come up with something in the mean time. I know on my previous vehicle they made IAT extensions so you could mount the sensor further from a heat source. Anyone know of something like that for the LS2?
iat is part of mass air sensor, unless you plan on moving the mass air also with the extension.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Livingston Texas
Originally Posted by cbrf4i1
maybe someone with data logging software can confirm this heat soak situation. is it really that bad? i know spinmonster mention something like 70 degree temp outside, and he drove for over 10 minutes (i think he said at high way speed) and the iat still shows 150 degrees or so. i had mod halltech cai and home make panels to help direct these out side air to the air box area then to the top of engine compartment. at this time of year even in AZ, when i pop the hood it really isn't that bad. anyone wants to do some data logging?
I should have the full version instead of the beta by next week so I will look into this more then.
Drifting
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From: az
Originally Posted by Brett Hunter
Below is a scan from earlier this year. I don't remember the details but I already had this chart up on my photobucket site. If I remember right I was requesting IAT every 60 seconds so every green dot on the IAT chart represents one minute. As you can see it doesn't take long to heat up or cool down.
I should have the full version instead of the beta by next week so I will look into this more then.
I should have the full version instead of the beta by next week so I will look into this more then.
hey brett, thanks for posting your chart. from the look of it, it looks like there maybe a heat soak issue since iat never got below 180 degree or so. also, when you took this data, what kind of intake were you using? any halltech cai? ambient temp? under hood temp? i know you had mention a while ago from your data the iat was higher for cars with the bottom feeder vs the top feeder if the car has been ideling for a while. when iat reach 158 degree the ecm is already retarding 12 degrees of timing, i am sure this is where the majority of hp/tq gain from a tune is coming from. thanks
Last edited by cbrf4i1; Aug 31, 2006 at 03:11 AM.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Livingston Texas
Originally Posted by cbrf4i1
hey brett, thanks for posting your chart. from the look of it, it looks like there maybe a heat soak issue since iat never got below 180 degree or so. also, when you took this data, what kind of intake were you using? any halltech cai? ambient temp? under hood temp? i know you had mention a while ago from your data the iat was higher for cars with the bottom feeder vs the top feeder if the car has been ideling for a while. when iat reach 158 degree the ecm is already retarding 12 degrees of timing, i am sure this is where the majority of hp/tq gain from a tune is coming from. thanks
This was with an ambient temp of 42 degrees and a Halltech without CAI.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
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From: Massachusetts , USA,
Stray dogs 2 cents, if as noted the MAF gets (heat soak ) quickly when at idle..... insulating the MAF , seems like a resonable solution , as the MAF basicly sits an inch or two above the upper radiater hose .... I am going to try this out,that is to encase the MAF with some type of insulation ,accordinly the MAF would then respond to actual air temp, from a CAI more quickly ....... however the only device i have is an laser thermometer & wont actually be able to verify the results.. the Dog "Woof "
Drifting
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From: az
Originally Posted by Brett Hunter
I think you are looking at the temp scale for the coolant. The IAT scale is on the right hand side of the chart, the IAT ranged from 45 to over 100 degrees during this run. Notice that it took only about three minutes for the IAT to climb over 100 at idle. Also notice that vehicle speed is in the second column below the IAT,ECT chart, it is in red.
This was with an ambient temp of 42 degrees and a Halltech without CAI.
This was with an ambient temp of 42 degrees and a Halltech without CAI.
Safety Car
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From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by dbradley
How 'bout insulating the radiator hose? Some of that exhaust heat wrap should do the trick.......
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Livingston Texas
Originally Posted by baf2000_1
If you insulate it that will also trap the heat. I have seen IAT go to 130 when the car sits . Once it is moving the IAT goes to ambient +5 or so ( Nice VARARAM ! ) .
We have been discussing this on another forum and Vararam states that the IAT will go below ambient at speed. I find this hard to believe and would like to see some logs. I am tempted to test it myself but the only problem is if it works, I'm already traction challenged and I'll be out money for bigger tires. If it doesn't I'm out the money and time to put it back stock.
Isn't modding cars fun?
Tech Contributor
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Guys on LS1 tech had installed an outboard IAT near the entrance to the air cleaner housing and it is far enough away from any underhood heat sources. Do a search there.
Safety Car
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From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by SpinMonster
Guys on LS1 tech had installed an outboard IAT near the entrance to the air cleaner housing and it is far enough away from any underhood heat sources. Do a search there.
i'm assuming they are using the iat relocation kit that connects to the maf and uses an extension to locate the sensor into a remote location.
how does the remote sensor connect ? are they drilling holes in the intake duct ?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: El Paso TX
As Spin said, there are kits to move the IAT. Vector Motorsports makes one for $99.95. It moves the IAT near the CAI. It was designed for the Trailblazer with the LS2 engine, but the Vector people say it will work with the Vette as well. Not only does it move the IAT away from the hot radiator hose, but they have a new sensor that responds really fast to temperature changes so you'll get a true temp reading to the computer. Will put it on this weekend and let you know how it works.
Le Mans Master
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From: Monroe Township New Jersey
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
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Why would you want to move the IAT. You want cool dense air. If you "fool" the sensor what do you actually accomplish?
The ECM does not pull timing when it should and you possibly get knock.
You really need to think of ways to get cooler denser air flowing past the IAT
The ECM does not pull timing when it should and you possibly get knock.
You really need to think of ways to get cooler denser air flowing past the IAT
Melting Slicks
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From: NJ..."the way I saw it, everyone takes a beating sometimes."
Originally Posted by Tommy D
Why would you want to move the IAT. You want cool dense air. If you "fool" the sensor what do you actually accomplish?
The ECM does not pull timing when it should and you possibly get knock.
You really need to think of ways to get cooler denser air flowing past the IAT
The ECM does not pull timing when it should and you possibly get knock.
You really need to think of ways to get cooler denser air flowing past the IAT
While this little unit might help you regain your 12* of timing power, you're compromising the computer's ability to protect the engine. GM didn't design this into the car to keep Corvette owners disgruntled about power loss. They did it so that Corvette owners would have a powerfull, reliable engine for a long long time. I think you're going the wrong way in trying to fix this "problem". Let the computer do it's job.