C6 Oil Consumption Problem

mine burns oil too, but i just switched from a '98SS camaro which burned crazy amounts of oil. so anything comparitively speaking is a small amount.
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Run it like a "raped ape" when cold? Plan on it using lots of oil and having reduced engine life.
Run it like a "raped ape" when cold? Plan on it using lots of oil and having reduced engine life.
I'm sorry. I know the tone of this is going to sound offensive to you but I promise I really don't mean this towards you personally, just your engineering/technical ideas of what is causing oil consumption in these LS1/LS6/LS2 (anyone know what's been going on with the LS7?) motors. Plus, I've had it with GM's bull**** garbage about 1qt/2000mi being "normal" (maybe in 1960) for any engine, much less one that is supposed to be designed for high performance. Couple that with the fact that I am going through a 10+ month nightmare with my C5 and Chevy dealer, and through that process have witnessed first hand GM's utter lack of technical knowledge and support to the dealer, and I am an admittedly very very pissed off guy. However, as raging as my emotions are now, I feel that as a mechanical engineer, and having consulted with my brother who was an engineer with BMW for over 5 years and my uncle who is an engineer with Chrysler (yeah, I know) for over 20 years, the arguments I make have a sound basis. Now here is the part I know will be hard for you to not take personally: the statement you made above is about 90% BS! Break-in technique? It is my opinion that a modern design engine is 95% broken-in by the first 50 miles on the car, and whether you do it by the manual or the "break 'er in hard" method, no matter which method is best or worst, a modern design engine should still not consume much, if any, oil as a result. The machining tolerances should simply be too tight to allow a wide variation like something from 1965. Cold engine technique? It is my opinion that a modern (admittedly gut instinct here but I would say anything designed and/or built after about 1985-1990) engine is warmed up within a couple minutes after start-up. To be safe, once the coolant needle is off the peg, and on the Corvette you can also use the computer to tell you when the oil temp has started to rise, the car is ready for "raped-ape" action. But again, even if you did the worst case scenario and started hammering the car out of the driveway, a properly designed modern engine should not display oil consumption like this. My motor burned a quart every 800-1000 miles while it was at FULL OPERATING TEMP, not dead COLD! This problem is not the fault of the drivers. It is a design flaw on GM's part, period. And they are too stupid/ignorant/cheap to have at least learned their lesson and fixed it for good between the LS1 and LS2. I'll bet anyone $500 that you can take a new Toyota/Honda/Nissan/BMW (any others you guys would like to include?) off the lot, hammer the **** out of it as soon as they hand you the keys, hammer it again every time you leave the driveway, and you still won't ever burn anything near a quart per 5000 mi. In college I got a 1993 Nissan pick-up (2.5L 4-banger, 5-speed manual) with 80K on the odometer. I drove the ever-living **** out of that thing for over 5 years. I first noticed oil consumption at about 150K miles. By the time her life ended (big tear!, from getting rear-ended and the frame getting bent) at 165K she burned 1/2 quart per 5000 mi. In all that time, the ONLY unscheduled maintenance was to replace a solenoid or electrical switch of some sort that went bad. None of this column lock, roof delaminating, weather seal replacing every 20K mi, etc. BS. Yes, that vehicle was much simpler, but the Japs know how to build cars right and tight, and if something is discovered wrong in the design they will bend over backwards to make it right. I seriously doubt you would have many more problems in a much more complex fully-loaded new Nissan Altima as I had with my truck. And therein lies GM's (and Chrysler's and for some Ford's) problem. I trust a Nissan. I don't trust a Chevy. I loved my Corvette but I bought it because it was a Corvette, not a Chevy or GM product. I accepted the fact that I was taking a certain hit in fit/finish and overall quality by going that route instead of a BMW M3 (yes, I know about the bearing problem on their engines but I also know BMW immediately put 100K warranties on all the engines and will bend over backwards if something goes wrong, and a problem like that is a very uncommon exception rather than the rule with Beemers). But I never would have thought engineering incompetence of this magnitude was still capable in this day and age, even by GM. I will say that I don’t think that moderate oil consumption, in and of itself, will cause any long-term engine reliability concerns. If I found a nice Corvette that burned a quart every 3000-4000 mi, I’d probably keep it. But a quart every 2000 miles or less?? Come on!! That’s obscene and even more than GM can claim is OK with a straight face. Even with a 3-4K mi per quart car I’m a little concerned about the long term effects of the carbon build-up. Quit defending GM. We should demand a properly engineered engine (anyone know of a petition or something of the like?), especially for the price you pay for a Vette. If Kia can do it, GM should be able too also!






Our 2006 with automatic, same style of driving, burns so little oil that I can barely measure it, about 1 qt every 10k miles; usually I change the oil before adding any.
The C6 is seems sensitive to any tilt (front-rear or left-right) when checking the oil, gas stations that look perfectly level to me will produce oil levels + or - 1/2 qt compared to my flat garage.
I'm sorry too, but your post is filled with prejudiced ranting. How can you say GM has a design problem when there are so many people posting zero to very little oil consumption? It simply can't be a design problem or all the engines would have the same problem. Also, for those that think they have zero consumption...think again. It is impossible to have zero oil consumption because a certain (very small) amount of oil is left on the cylinder wall and gets burned during combustion. You don't see a drop in oil level because there is an equal amount of "condensate" that replaces the small amount burned. I agree the OP has relatively high oil consumption (in comparison with others), but I don't think there is anything wrong with 1 qt/2000 miles.You really need to get one of those foreign cars, I for one will be happy to see you in one. The interesting thing I've noticed as the Japanese cars are getting more popular is I'm hearing more and more people complain about the same things I hear about the American cars. And I see it in all my neighbors Japanese cars...one guy had his new Honda S2000 spend more time at the dealership in the first 4 months than my Corvette has in the 14 years I've had it. When I see a $1000 bill for a 90000 mile maintenance/service check on a Honda Civic, I have to ask myself how stupid are people. In the first 90000 miles of my old Cavaliers life, I didn't spend half that much on the whole car including tires, battery, windshield wipers, and repairs. That car went 225000 miles with nothing done to the engine except a water pump and spark plugs/wires before I took it to the junkyard...because the piece of crap Japanese made (Isuzu) transaxle went out a second time. And don't be so quick to think a Japanese company will step up to the plate for a problem...there are a few executives that use to work at Mitsubishi in jail for "covering up" design flaws in their cars.
Lastly, a lot of the Japanese cars use cast iron rings which require a long elaborate break-in. I don't think you'll hammer on those cars right off the showroom floor and not experience oil consumption and you'll be lucky if you don't glaze the cylinder walls. In contrast, American cars use moly faced/filled rings which seat instantly...the break-in interval is more for the rear end gears and the brakes. Even the cylinder walls are honed to a plateau finish which if you know anything about engines, you'll know that a plateau surface finish is the desired result once rings are broken-in. This is why moly rings seat instantly, the soft moly conforms quickly to the "fine" plateau finish.
Don't wave that $500 around too long, I have a few neighbors more than willing to lighten your wallet!
In the real world (absent of media propaganda), Japanese cars are no better than American cars and American cars are no worse than Japanese cars. I base this on observation, looking at friends/families American versus Japanese cars. I will say I've had to go to way more foreign car dealerships with friends/family to fight for what is right than American dealerships (just one actually, and it was a gray area). And let me tell you the amounts I'm talking about at the foreign dealerships were obscene with a few of them actually criminal...it was funny to see how fast they changed their tune when I arrived on scene as an expert witness gathering evidence for a civil lawsuit and possible criminal prosecution.
PS Good luck with your car!
Having worked for a Tier 1 supplier, the fact is that American built Japanese cars have better quality than those built in Japan--and have almost since the first Honda plant was build in OH. I respect the Japanese as improvers; they have never been innovators. Innovators have much better odds of problems than those who simply wait until the bugs are out and then take it to the next level.














