Fuel pressure meter
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,549
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From: Roanoke Virginia
Fuel pressure meter
I am trying to hook up a fuel pressure meter to the fuel rail, preferably with a scrader "T" so I can still access it. However, I have not found any permenantly mountable gauge / adapter combinations to make this happen. Is there one on the market?
Safety Car
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Miami FL
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16,'17,'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Be Safe
Use an electric transducer on the fuel rail. It is not a good idea to run any tubing with gasoline under pressure into your passenger compartment. Tubing, fittings, even gauges, have a funny way of leaking at the MOST inopportune moment in time . . . . . 
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Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 27,420
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From: San Clemente CA
Originally Posted by clevitekid
Use an electric transducer on the fuel rail. It is not a good idea to run any tubing with gasoline under pressure into your passenger compartment. Tubing, fittings, even gauges, have a funny way of leaking at the MOST inopportune moment in time . . . . .
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The one I mentioned above was under the hood at the carburator. I thought we were talking about an under hood gauge.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 4,598
Likes: 78
From: Miami FL
2020 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16,'17,'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
Originally Posted by VET4LES
The one I mentioned above was under the hood at the carburator. I thought we were talking about an under hood gauge.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 148
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From: Norfolk Va
It's a AN-4 male fitting on the fuel rail, use a Russel Performance FUEL PRESSURE TAKE OFF #670290 and a FLARE CAP # 66195 to seal the other end. That way you can clock the sending unit to clear the covers.
You'll need to remove the valve from the rail before you put the parts on.
The higher end Auto Meter gauges have a very small sending unit that would work well in this setup. The cheaper gauges have rather large sending units. They run around $200 for a good gauge.
For hooking up a "T" a Areoquip Female Flare Swivel # FCM2914 and a Union Tee # FCM2061 will get you the parts you are asking about to hook a gauge up under the hood. That will give you two AN-4 ports open off the fuel rail.
You'll need to remove the valve from the rail before you put the parts on.
The higher end Auto Meter gauges have a very small sending unit that would work well in this setup. The cheaper gauges have rather large sending units. They run around $200 for a good gauge.
For hooking up a "T" a Areoquip Female Flare Swivel # FCM2914 and a Union Tee # FCM2061 will get you the parts you are asking about to hook a gauge up under the hood. That will give you two AN-4 ports open off the fuel rail.
Last edited by I1uluz; Oct 1, 2006 at 01:23 PM.
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Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,254
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From: Ft. Liquordale Florida
Originally Posted by I1uluz
It's a AN-4 male fitting on the fuel rail, use a Russel Performance FUEL PRESSURE TAKE OFF #670290 and a FLARE CAP # 66195 to seal the other end. That way you can clock the sending unit to clear the covers.
You'll need to remove the valve from the rail before you put the parts on.
The higher end Auto Meter gauges have a very small sending unit that would work well in this setup. The cheaper gauges have rather large sending units. They run around $200 for a good gauge.
For hooking up a "T" a Areoquip Female Flare Swivel # FCM2914 and a Union Tee # FCM2061 will get you the parts you are asking about to hook a gauge up under the hood. That will give you two AN-4 ports open off the fuel rail.
You'll need to remove the valve from the rail before you put the parts on.
The higher end Auto Meter gauges have a very small sending unit that would work well in this setup. The cheaper gauges have rather large sending units. They run around $200 for a good gauge.
For hooking up a "T" a Areoquip Female Flare Swivel # FCM2914 and a Union Tee # FCM2061 will get you the parts you are asking about to hook a gauge up under the hood. That will give you two AN-4 ports open off the fuel rail.
BEWARE the autometer sender. I'm on my 3rd one (and from the looks of it, the 3rd design change). Symptoms of failure are steadily dropping FP's, until the gauge reads so low that the car can't possibly be running (even though it is). They started out with a large sender, in a metal can/case, moved to a smaller one with a plastic rear, then to an even smaller one...
Rick