Anyone with experienc w/Predator Programmer??
Also, I was told I didn't need to install the 160 degree thermostat on the C6 since the Predator can accomplish the same thing via the computer. If someone has done this I sure could use the help.
If someone knows how to do this and can put it in terms that EVEN I COULD follow, I sure could use the help! It's not that I couldn't figure it out myself, I am just tentative and afraid I might hurt something.
Thanks for the help!
If possible see if a vendor on the forums can send you Predator tunes, you download your stock tune to the Predator, export it to your PC, email the file to the shop, they alter the tune and email it back to you, you install the tune on the Predator, then download it to the car.
What the Predator and/or tuning software packages can do is adjust the temperature at which the cooling fans come on. So, even with the stock thermo, you could adjust the settings so that the fans come on right at 195 degrees, try to keep the temps close to that point. As was already mentioned, the C6 fan controller is progressive, so that the fan starts out at a slow speed, then gets faster as the temps rise.

What the Predator and/or tuning software packages can do is adjust the temperature at which the cooling fans come on. So, even with the stock thermo, you could adjust the settings so that the fans come on right at 195 degrees, try to keep the temps close to that point. As was already mentioned, the C6 fan controller is progressive, so that the fan starts out at a slow speed, then gets faster as the temps rise.
100%
the only temp. related settings you will be able to control via tuning is the 'fan operating speed' setting.

there is a 'radio shack resistor' fix for cags. don't let the name scare you, just because it's from the 'shack' doesn't mean it's 'rigged'.
i can't remember the exact details, because it's been at least 2 years since i did it, but it's something like this.
you can purchase a 'pack' of resistors from Radio Shack for about $1.00, you get something like 5 resistors, or something like that.
disconnet the cags connector to the tranny, it's labeled, insert resistor, tape off- or plug / make weather proof the connection, and wha-lah, no cags. the 'skip shift' light will continue to illuminate as normal but the 'gate' will no longer be closed, you'll be able to shift into second - regardless.
performance tune re-maps
fuel curves
timing curves
torque management
extend speed limiters
extend rev limiters
Ted P

performance tune re-maps
fuel curves
timing curves
torque management
extend speed limiters
extend rev limiters
Ted P
are they pre-determined fuel maps, or is the user able to make adjustments to the spark advance and fuel trims individually ?
are they pre-determined fuel maps, or is the user able to make adjustments to the spark advance and fuel trims individually ?
Ted
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
are they pre-determined fuel maps, or is the user able to make adjustments to the spark advance and fuel trims individually ?
Butt.....mikeyc6 is the forum member that seems to have figured out some good techniques for zeroing LTFT's and adjusting PE (using O2 voltages). Take a look at this old thread that has a bunch of info on working with the Predator (scroll down to post# 114 to get to the meat of the subject):
Old Predator Thread
As far as spark advance, it's sorta like the fan in that you adjust spark by % (who the heck adjusts spark by %????
). You can definitely very easily turn off CAGS with the Predator.The Predator is okay as a low level tuning device, but you can't really do real detailed tuning with it.
Bob
And, I see what you you mean by the percentage deal on the fan. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me. If it's not clearly intuitive, I am not comfortable taking any chances. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
I wish I would have had a better template for my VaraRam CAI. I ended up cutting too much out and now my temps run at 194/214 degrees. My Vette has always ran higher then the other peoples Corvettes that I have asked about. I will close off some of that after I fashion some platic pieces and get my rivet tool out...it's always fun to play with.
Anyway, I did buy 160 thermostat, so I will tackle that this weekend. I already took a look at it and loosened the bolts up. It looks straight forward. I will have to drain the antifreeze at the bottom of the radiator (or clean up a big mess in the engine bay if I don't).
It looks pretty much straight forward, to change that thermostat. Or, are there some tricks I need to be aware of? I didn't see the petcock right off, but I am sure there is one somewhere, that or a simple drain plug of some type. Should I expect a couple of quarts or will there be more? Any issue with reusing the antifreeze fluids, provided I keep it clean???
Is there any aftermarket product I should add, while I am at it? I understand the Water Wetter type products work only if you have a higher percentage of water, like 80% water and 20% antifreeze. At 50/50 I was told there isn't any value to using water wetter. Is that right?
Thanks again guys! These tools I have owned all my life are finally getting some use...HA!














