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I don't have a C-6 Service Manual, but the C-5 Service Manual says the following( I believe the systems operate the same):
"...From the cylinder heads, the coolant is then forced to the thermostat.The flow of coolant will either be stopped at the thermostat until the engine is warmed, or it will flow through the thermostat and into the radiator where it is cooled and the coolant cycle is completed."
Therefore, the stat is on the outlet of the engine before the inlet of the radiator.
This makes sense to me, since the stat needs to see engine temp coolant, not radiator exit coolant.
Am I missing something?
So how do I get the most consistant temp with this LS2 for bracket racing? 176-190 seems too big a difference to me when I'm trying to hit my dial. When I had my LS1 and 180 stat, my temp was almost always nailed at 194 degrees whether moving or still. I'm sure the fan program had a lot to do with it and now I can't remember where I had them tuned to.
So what's the secret to pegging a temp consistantly with a 160? Sometimes (when I'm lucky) I'm hot lapping and other times I'm sitting for 2 hours and then 1st car to the tree with no time for warm up. Seems to me a 170 would be perfect for this engine, yet none seem to be available for the C6.
I see 170 thermostats advertised at Vinci, West Coast Corvettes, and Ecklers. Anyone try one?
Hey, Dave --- did you test that 180 thermo that I sold you? If so, did you also see it opening at 184? What are your cruising temps?
Hitman,
I tested it and got about 186 for opening. (I'm at sea level) Haven't installed it yet- waiting for a few more miles on the new car. Interestingly, the new car runs about 196 at steady 45mph, 78 degree ambient temp, oil at 207-212, A/C off. When I change stats I'll test the stock stat. At initial warm-up, the DIC temp goes to 196 and pretty much stops there, therefore, whatever temp the stock unit is "rated" it's operating to maintain 196.
Makes sense. I think I tested it at 184 when the slightest opening appeared. You may find when you install it, your temps will only drop 6 degrees or so.
I'm beginning to think that the way the thermo maintains a constant temp is that at normal cruising temps it is still not yet fully open. Mine will fluctuate between 178 and 180 on the highway. As soon as I slow down to 45, it goes up a few degrees. If I drop down into 5th, temps will start to drop down to as low as 172.
I don't have a C-6 Service Manual, but the C-5 Service Manual says the following( I believe the systems operate the same):
"...From the cylinder heads, the coolant is then forced to the thermostat.The flow of coolant will either be stopped at the thermostat until the engine is warmed, or it will flow through the thermostat and into the radiator where it is cooled and the coolant cycle is completed."
Therefore, the stat is on the outlet of the engine before the inlet of the radiator.
This makes sense to me, since the stat needs to see engine temp coolant, not radiator exit coolant.
Am I missing something?
i don't know about c5, but c6 flows the direction that i pointed out on my previous posted.
hitman99, i purchased the same 160 stat as you did, in my test it opened right around 160, just as the stock unit open at around 186. funny thing is we do have the same operating temperature, which leaves me to think one of our the testing method could use some double checking. i understand and agree with the point made by supporting tuner " Dave_Busch", are you saying he is wrong on this point?
If you are going for pure consistency you may want to run at the upper end of your temp range.
The car will run consistent as long as the coolant is the same temp. It is a lot easier to heat the car up than cool it down.
As I have posted, the LPE 160 thermo actually opens around 174. So it's closer to being a 170 thermo than a 160. About $20 on EBay.
as i also has stated many times before, my lpe 160 opens right around 160. 06 service manual stated if the stated doesn't open within a couple / few degrees then it must be replaced. hitman, funny things is you kept making your statement and i being doing the same but WE STILL HAVE THE SAME OPERATING TEMP ON DIC. so i guess what ever works for you and i.
i don't know about c5, but c6 flows the direction that i pointed out on my previous posted.
What about the '04 C-5, (LS-1) that uses the same water pump and thermostst set-up as the C-6 (LS-2)? Does it flow opposite as well?
Can anyone quote a C-6 Service Manual?
Still confused!
What about the '04 C-5, (LS-1) that uses the same water pump and thermostst set-up as the C-6 (LS-2)? Does it flow opposite as well?
Can anyone quote a C-6 Service Manual?
Still confused!
why are you confused, if you have to c6 put your hand on the upper and lower radiator hose and see which one is hot first when the stat opens. it is a no brianer. unless you are doubting the inform that i provide is bs which is already back by dave the supporting vendor. again i don't know about c5, so i can't speak for something that i don't know about.
why are you confused, if you have to c6 put your hand on the upper and lower radiator hose and see which one is hot first when the stat opens. it is a no brianer. unless you are doubting the inform that i provide is bs which is already back by dave the supporting vendor. again i don't know about c5, so i can't speak for something that i don't know about.
You are right.
I just tried it and the upper hose does indeed get hot when the stat opens.
So how does the stat know when to open? Is it heated by the outlet water that goes to the heater core? If so, it is finally starting to make sense, in a strange sort of way.
You are right.
I just tried it and the upper hose does indeed get hot when the stat opens.
So how does the stat know when to open? Is it heated by the outlet water that goes to the heater core? If so, it is finally starting to make sense, in a strange sort of way.
good, i was begining to think you think i am full of BS. stat will open but it will just appears to open a little later, this is due to the temperature gradient. dave, recook that 180 stat that you got, it is my guess when you cook it as the water temp reach 180* you still had the pot on the heating source therefore as you look for the slightest crack in the stat, the water temp will continue to go up since you still have it sitting on the heat source. do what i did, heat the water up to 180-182* then remove the pot from your heating source then put the stat in there to see if it opens, remind the wax in the stat has be to heated it may take more then a few sec or so. if it doesn't open heat the water up to 182-184* then put the stat back into the water to see it open. let me know how it goes. thanks
good, i was begining to think you think i am full of BS. stat will open but it will just appears to open a little later, this is due to the temperature gradient. dave, recook that 180 stat that you got, it is my guess when you cook it as the water temp reach 180* you still had the pot on the heating source therefore as you look for the slightest crack in the stat, the water temp will continue to go up since you still have it sitting on the heat source. do what i did, heat the water up to 180-182* then remove the pot from your heating source then put the stat in there to see if it opens, remind the wax in the stat has be to heated it may take more then a few sec or so. if it doesn't open heat the water up to 182-184* then put the stat back into the water to see it open. let me know how it goes. thanks
Using your method the stat begins to open at 186, fully open at 194. The real test will be to install it and see what happens. Probably get to it next week.
Some good points here about the thermos. When I tested mine I placed the thermo in the pot sitting on a small block of wood, to keep it away from any hot spots. But in retrospect, it would have been a more accurate test to do it as described earlier, by placing it into water at a fixed temp, off the heat.
Interesting point about our two thermos opening at different temps but resulting in the same operating temps. Could be that they open at different rates, but eventually get to the same "almost open" state that results in a stable operating temp.
I'm not an expert on thermodynamics, so I'll leave it up to Shopdog to figure it out.
Using your method the stat begins to open at 186, fully open at 194. The real test will be to install it and see what happens. Probably get to it next week.
wow, two different methods and got pretty much the same result. oh well, thanks for the update. let us know if your operation temp is 6* lower then stock if you get the chance. thanks dave.
wow, two different methods and got pretty much the same result. oh well, thanks for the update. let us know if your operation temp is 6* lower then stock if you get the chance. thanks dave.
Made the swap today- the "180" stat that began to open at 186 ran 208! Not sure if I got all the air out- is this a problem with the C-6 as it is with the C-5? Anyway, tested the stock stat and it began to open at 186 and was fully open at 194, about the same as the aftermarket.
Put the stock stat back in and all is well but still running about 196.
The stock stat is marked "86C" (187F) and is way better quality. Also, the extra disc on the outside of the stat is solid on the stocker, but has 4 holes on the "180" aftermarket. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with the way the stat senses temperature.
My head hurts!
Made the swap today- the "180" stat that began to open at 186 ran 208! Not sure if I got all the air out- is this a problem with the C-6 as it is with the C-5? Anyway, tested the stock stat and it began to open at 186 and was fully open at 194, about the same as the aftermarket.
Put the stock stat back in and all is well but still running about 196.
The stock stat is marked "86C" (187F) and is way better quality. Also, the extra disc on the outside of the stat is solid on the stocker, but has 4 holes on the "180" aftermarket. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with the way the stat senses temperature.
My head hurts!