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Do I need a tune?

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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 06:01 PM
  #1  
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Default Do I need a tune?

If I'm installing headers, x-pipe, hi-flow cats,Vararam intake, spacer, and 160 t-stat... do I need a tune?? With most tunes running around $500.00 how much benefit can I expect? Should I wait until I add a cam and heads? Inquiring minds want to know Kevin
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 06:38 PM
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Kevin .. you will reap the most benefit from your mods with a tune. You are close to Mike Norris, who many say is a great tuner.
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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If you live near a good tuner, go get one . you wont regret it!
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Old Nov 5, 2006 | 09:35 PM
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Just got a tune from COW. I don't know why someone would need more than car than what I have now. Fast push back in the seat. It didn't do that before the tune. Headers cats blackwing intake Rt.66

I'm not doing anything else to the car.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 05:49 AM
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I am going back tomorrow to get my Tune adjusted.

The stock tune would run good, but a custom tune can:

1 - Clear any codes that might pop up due to the headers

2 - Delete skipshift on manual trannies

3 - Turn your fans on earlier for your 160 stat

4 - Raise your rev limiter a bit

5 - Reduce Torque Management

Howard
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 06:33 AM
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i wouldn't worry about tuning it until you are more or less done with the bolt-ons.

i've had my c6 since nov. '04 and still have yet to get it tuned.

it has been my understanding that the ecm is programmed in such a way that it will 'learn' or 'self-adjust' to a degree.

most minor mods. can be compenstated for by the 'learning' process. even after a tune the computer will continue to learn. a good tune one day on dyno does not garantee the same results six months and a season change later.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Zig
i wouldn't worry about tuning it until you are more or less done with the bolt-ons.

i've had my c6 since nov. '04 and still have yet to get it tuned.

it has been my understanding that the ecm is programmed in such a way that it will 'learn' or 'self-adjust' to a degree.

most minor mods. can be compenstated for by the 'learning' process. even after a tune the computer will continue to learn. a good tune one day on dyno does not garantee the same results six months and a season change later.
When I had the VaraRam installed, it seemed like it took a day or two to respond and it was amazing. Zig, you do have a point. Many members have not had a tune and their car runs fine. But there are benefits to a tune, it's just the fact of paying $500 for it. Is it worth it is the question?
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Fore58
... there are benefits to a tune, it's just the fact of paying $500 for it. Is it worth it is the question?
at $500 a pop it ain't, if you get free retunes, maybe, but then again, how close would one be to the shop, downtime, etc., etc., etc.

a good tune is worth it. the cost/gain is about the same as headers, cam, rockers, etc. it just depends upon the 'tuner'.

personally, i've never been able to get the 'perfect' tune the very first time.

imo, the good base tune could be obtained with a bit of patience. If one was to connect a datalogger and just let it collect for a week or two. during the collection process a number of wot runs, traffic driving, idling, short high-rpm bursts, prolonged high-rpm use, etc. etc. by analyzing the 'data' (including weather conditions/temp., coolant temp, iat, oil temp, engine performance, a/f, etc., etc. etc.) one should be able to get a pretty good base tune. i say base because the ecm is still gonna self adjust based upon the newly tuned 'base settings'.

but until i get my hands on some 'tuning utilities' i'm just gonna let the computer tune itself, until i get radical with it, that is.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:11 AM
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Zig, you need to talk to someone who has actually used Autotap, EFI Live, or HP Tuners to log ECM data on the street. You cannot turn it on and record data for weeks on end, days on end, or even hours or minutes on end. Depending on how many parameters you are logging, you will fill up your disk in nothing flat, and end up with a huge file of data that is almost impossible to decipher.

What most guys do is focus on one aspect of their tuning at a time. For example, if you are trying to tune for cruise efficiency, you might log your fuel trims at a constant cruising speed or constant throttle position, then change one parameter, then make a second log at the same speed or TPS value. That way you can see the effect that your change made.

It's slow, painstaking work.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
Zig, you need to talk to someone who has actually used Autotap, EFI Live, or HP Tuners to log ECM data on the street. You cannot turn it on and record data for weeks on end, days on end, or even hours or minutes on end. Depending on how many parameters you are logging, you will fill up your disk in nothing flat, and end up with a huge file of data that is almost impossible to decipher.

What most guys do is focus on one aspect of their tuning at a time. For example, if you are trying to tune for cruise efficiency, you might log your fuel trims at a constant cruising speed or constant throttle position, then change one parameter, then make a second log at the same speed or TPS value. That way you can see the effect that your change made.

It's slow, painstaking work.
thanks, and i imagine it is a slow process.
yeah, i guess you'd need to carry around a nice large 'disk array' then run some queries on the data. limited disk space can be a problem.

sounds like you agree that single shot tune won't result in the best performance.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:35 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Zig
sounds like you agree that single shot tune won't result in the best performance.
I have never had a single shot tune, so I wouldn't know. In my opinion, the optimal tune would be a speed density tune (no MAF), followed by several dyno pulls, then backed up with some track and/or street testing using a wideband O2 sensor. However, this requires welding an additional O2 bung into your exhaust system, and most guys aren't up for that.

Chuck of CoW doesn't like dyno tunes, and prefers to use his library of previously successful tunes, tweaked by data logging done on the street. The problem there is that the OEM O2 sensors aren't that accurate, and it's hard to find a street where you can drive 115 MPH, especially during the daylight in suburban NY. His tune does result in excellent street manners, throttle response, and SOTP performance. Track performance is still unknown, but I do have some evidence that I'm running a little lean at WOT.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
I have never had a single shot tune, so I wouldn't know. In my opinion, the optimal tune would be a speed density tune (no MAF), followed by several dyno pulls, then backed up with some track and/or street testing using a wideband O2 sensor. However, this requires welding an additional O2 bung into your exhaust system, and most guys aren't up for that.

Chuck of CoW doesn't like dyno tunes, and prefers to use his library of previously successful tunes, tweaked by data logging done on the street. The problem there is that the OEM O2 sensors aren't that accurate, and it's hard to find a street where you can drive 115 MPH, especially during the daylight in suburban NY. His tune does result in excellent street manners, throttle response, and SOTP performance. Track performance is still unknown, but I do have some evidence that I'm running a little lean at WOT.
cool,
did you do the term. ? what makes you say lean at wot ? got ping ?
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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Not sure what "term" is.

I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
Not sure what "term" is.

I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.
ooppss.. meant to say therm. you also did the 160 therm didn't you ? if you're getting preignition on the top end, it would seem that a lower temp therm. doesn't do much to prevent it, but then again it depends on the tune so i really can't say the lower temp therm didn't help.

i know, you don't agree with me but have you tried a one step cooler spark plug ?
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by yell03
I am going back tomorrow to get my Tune adjusted.

The stock tune would run good, but a custom tune can:

1 - Clear any codes that might pop up due to the headers

2 - Delete skipshift on manual trannies

3 - Turn your fans on earlier for your 160 stat

4 - Raise your rev limiter a bit

5 - Reduce Torque Management

Howard
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 11:40 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Zig
ooppss.. meant to say therm. you also did the 160 therm didn't you ? if you're getting preignition on the top end, it would seem that a lower temp therm. doesn't do much to prevent it, but then again it depends on the tune so i really can't say the lower temp therm didn't help.

i know, you don't agree with me but have you tried a one step cooler spark plug ?
Yes, I have a 160 thermostat. It keeps the temps where I want them, but has no effect on the A/F mix. Same for a colder plug. I ran NGK TR6 plugs (vs the standard TR55's) in my previous car because of the milled heads, higher compression. No reason to run colder plugs now.
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by HITMAN99
...a colder plug.
as long as it stays clean and continues to fire correctly and holds off preignition (kr) just that bit longer, why not ?
Originally Posted by HITMAN99
I ran NGK TR6 plugs (vs the standard TR55's) in my previous car because of the milled heads, higher compression.
what would be the harm in running a colder plug ?

Last edited by Zig; Nov 7, 2006 at 11:53 AM. Reason: ooppss... typo. hols off not of ....der..
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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Because it may not stay clean, it could foul at lower RPMs. Colder plugs are more prone to fouling. With today's higher voltage ignition systems, that is less of an issue, but it is still an issue.

Because of the fouling, the colder plugs may not continue to fire correctly.

Because colder plugs will not do much at all to reduce preignition caused by an incorrect A/F mix.

Because there is no benefit to running a colder plug, but possible problems.

Because it is not the correct heat range plug for my motor.

Because, EVEN IF it might help alleviate the symptoms of my immediate problem, as soon as I get the A/F mix adjusted correctly, I would just have to switch the plugs back.

Trying to cure an A/F mix problem by changing plugs is like trying to cure a fever by immersing yourself in cold water. The result is pneumonia (read James Michener's "Hawaii" for that little nugget of info).
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:35 PM
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Default Keep This In Mind.....

Originally Posted by HITMAN99
Not sure what "term" is.

I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.
Keep this in mind....ESPECIALLY WITH AN AUTOMATIC.....The reason I don't use a dyno is because ENGINE LOAD is different from the DYNO to the STREET.......

Sure it's good to check with a wideband.....but, don't bother with the wideband on the dyno.....WELD a bung into your car....BEFORE THE CAT....and get a "REAL" reading on the street....REMEMBER LOAD is different from the dyno to the street and IGN TIMING is different depending on load.....PLUS with a forced cold air system the car will run too rich on the dyno......

Wanna be real smart....Buy the LC-1 Wideband controller and a guage...Install it in the car....THEN tell me what the AFR is on the street......This is the ONLY way to do it right. EVERYONE should have one......

Call me if you have any questions.......
Chuck CoW
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Old Nov 7, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck CoW
Keep this in mind....ESPECIALLY WITH AN AUTOMATIC.....The reason I don't use a dyno is because ENGINE LOAD is different from the DYNO to the STREET.......

Sure it's good to check with a wideband.....but, don't bother with the wideband on the dyno.....WELD a bung into your car....BEFORE THE CAT....and get a "REAL" reading on the street....REMEMBER LOAD is different from the dyno to the street and IGN TIMING is different depending on load.....PLUS with a forced cold air system the car will run too rich on the dyno......

Wanna be real smart....Buy the LC-1 Wideband controller and a guage...Install it in the car....THEN tell me what the AFR is on the street......This is the ONLY way to do it right. EVERYONE should have one......

Call me if you have any questions.......
Chuck CoW



I bought the EASE SOftware setup so i can pull real time STREET data for my tune ~
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