Do I need a tune?


Kevin





I'm not doing anything else to the car.
The stock tune would run good, but a custom tune can:
1 - Clear any codes that might pop up due to the headers
2 - Delete skipshift on manual trannies
3 - Turn your fans on earlier for your 160 stat
4 - Raise your rev limiter a bit
5 - Reduce Torque Management
Howard

i've had my c6 since nov. '04 and still have yet to get it tuned.
it has been my understanding that the ecm is programmed in such a way that it will 'learn' or 'self-adjust' to a degree.
most minor mods. can be compenstated for by the 'learning' process. even after a tune the computer will continue to learn. a good tune one day on dyno does not garantee the same results six months and a season change later.
i've had my c6 since nov. '04 and still have yet to get it tuned.
it has been my understanding that the ecm is programmed in such a way that it will 'learn' or 'self-adjust' to a degree.
most minor mods. can be compenstated for by the 'learning' process. even after a tune the computer will continue to learn. a good tune one day on dyno does not garantee the same results six months and a season change later.
When I had the VaraRam installed, it seemed like it took a day or two to respond and it was amazing. Zig, you do have a point. Many members have not had a tune and their car runs fine. But there are benefits to a tune, it's just the fact of paying $500 for it. Is it worth it is the question?

a good tune is worth it. the cost/gain is about the same as headers, cam, rockers, etc. it just depends upon the 'tuner'.
personally, i've never been able to get the 'perfect' tune the very first time.
imo, the good base tune could be obtained with a bit of patience. If one was to connect a datalogger and just let it collect for a week or two. during the collection process a number of wot runs, traffic driving, idling, short high-rpm bursts, prolonged high-rpm use, etc. etc. by analyzing the 'data' (including weather conditions/temp., coolant temp, iat, oil temp, engine performance, a/f, etc., etc. etc.) one should be able to get a pretty good base tune. i say base because the ecm is still gonna self adjust based upon the newly tuned 'base settings'.
but until i get my hands on some 'tuning utilities' i'm just gonna let the computer tune itself, until i get radical with it, that is.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
What most guys do is focus on one aspect of their tuning at a time. For example, if you are trying to tune for cruise efficiency, you might log your fuel trims at a constant cruising speed or constant throttle position, then change one parameter, then make a second log at the same speed or TPS value. That way you can see the effect that your change made.
It's slow, painstaking work.

What most guys do is focus on one aspect of their tuning at a time. For example, if you are trying to tune for cruise efficiency, you might log your fuel trims at a constant cruising speed or constant throttle position, then change one parameter, then make a second log at the same speed or TPS value. That way you can see the effect that your change made.
It's slow, painstaking work.
yeah, i guess you'd need to carry around a nice large 'disk array' then run some queries on the data. limited disk space can be a problem.
sounds like you agree that single shot tune won't result in the best performance.
Chuck of CoW doesn't like dyno tunes, and prefers to use his library of previously successful tunes, tweaked by data logging done on the street. The problem there is that the OEM O2 sensors aren't that accurate, and it's hard to find a street where you can drive 115 MPH, especially during the daylight in suburban NY. His tune does result in excellent street manners, throttle response, and SOTP performance. Track performance is still unknown, but I do have some evidence that I'm running a little lean at WOT.

Chuck of CoW doesn't like dyno tunes, and prefers to use his library of previously successful tunes, tweaked by data logging done on the street. The problem there is that the OEM O2 sensors aren't that accurate, and it's hard to find a street where you can drive 115 MPH, especially during the daylight in suburban NY. His tune does result in excellent street manners, throttle response, and SOTP performance. Track performance is still unknown, but I do have some evidence that I'm running a little lean at WOT.
did you do the term. ? what makes you say lean at wot ? got ping ?
I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.

I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.
i know, you don't agree with me but have you tried a one step cooler spark plug ?
The stock tune would run good, but a custom tune can:
1 - Clear any codes that might pop up due to the headers
2 - Delete skipshift on manual trannies
3 - Turn your fans on earlier for your 160 stat
4 - Raise your rev limiter a bit
5 - Reduce Torque Management
Howard
i know, you don't agree with me but have you tried a one step cooler spark plug ?

Last edited by Zig; Nov 7, 2006 at 11:53 AM. Reason: ooppss... typo. hols off not of ....der..
Because of the fouling, the colder plugs may not continue to fire correctly.
Because colder plugs will not do much at all to reduce preignition caused by an incorrect A/F mix.
Because there is no benefit to running a colder plug, but possible problems.
Because it is not the correct heat range plug for my motor.
Because, EVEN IF it might help alleviate the symptoms of my immediate problem, as soon as I get the A/F mix adjusted correctly, I would just have to switch the plugs back.
Trying to cure an A/F mix problem by changing plugs is like trying to cure a fever by immersing yourself in cold water. The result is pneumonia (read James Michener's "Hawaii" for that little nugget of info).
I had a similar experience to Yell03, went to the track and got crummy numbers. A quick trip to my local dyno showed A/F around 13:1, lots of KR. I suspect that my O2 sensors are just not that accurate (compared to the wideband tailpipe sniffer used on the dyno), so I will have to do some tweaking.
Sure it's good to check with a wideband.....but, don't bother with the wideband on the dyno.....WELD a bung into your car....BEFORE THE CAT....and get a "REAL" reading on the street....REMEMBER LOAD is different from the dyno to the street and IGN TIMING is different depending on load.....PLUS with a forced cold air system the car will run too rich on the dyno......
Wanna be real smart....Buy the LC-1 Wideband controller and a guage...Install it in the car....THEN tell me what the AFR is on the street......This is the ONLY way to do it right. EVERYONE should have one......
Call me if you have any questions.......
Chuck CoW





Sure it's good to check with a wideband.....but, don't bother with the wideband on the dyno.....WELD a bung into your car....BEFORE THE CAT....and get a "REAL" reading on the street....REMEMBER LOAD is different from the dyno to the street and IGN TIMING is different depending on load.....PLUS with a forced cold air system the car will run too rich on the dyno......
Wanna be real smart....Buy the LC-1 Wideband controller and a guage...Install it in the car....THEN tell me what the AFR is on the street......This is the ONLY way to do it right. EVERYONE should have one......
Call me if you have any questions.......
Chuck CoW

I bought the EASE SOftware setup so i can pull real time STREET data for my tune ~










