CAGS and Check Engine Light
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 32
From: USA
Guess I need to add more detail as to why this didn't work for me.
I put the resistor in the harness and then pushed the connector back into the tranny connector. I drove the car and still got the skip shift.
I pulled the connectors apart with the resistor still attached and drove the car. This setup disabled the skip shift.
Plugged the connector with resistor attached back in and tested it again. Skip shift was not disabled so....
It seems if you put the resistor in the connector then put the two connectors together the resistor completes the circuit and the skip shift is no longer disabled.
I have no other ideas why this happened.
I tried this 4 times but couldn't get it to work with the connectors pushed together. Worked fine with them separated.
I put the resistor in the harness and then pushed the connector back into the tranny connector. I drove the car and still got the skip shift.
I pulled the connectors apart with the resistor still attached and drove the car. This setup disabled the skip shift.
Plugged the connector with resistor attached back in and tested it again. Skip shift was not disabled so....
It seems if you put the resistor in the connector then put the two connectors together the resistor completes the circuit and the skip shift is no longer disabled.
I have no other ideas why this happened.
I tried this 4 times but couldn't get it to work with the connectors pushed together. Worked fine with them separated.
Last edited by corvette dave; Nov 28, 2006 at 11:52 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
You don't push the connector back together after putting the resistor in. You put the resistor in the female wire harness end. Leave the solenoid disconnected. Tape the resistor up so it won't fall out. Then zip tie the loose harness to the tab on the side of the trans.
Use the installuniversity.com link for pictures. It's in the LS vehicles, install documents...
But you've got to leave it disconnected for this to work.
The aftermarket CAGS modules get plugged back in, but that is a dummy connection on one end. Electrically it actually leaves the solenoid disconnected. The resistor tricks the computer to think it is connected.
Use the installuniversity.com link for pictures. It's in the LS vehicles, install documents...
But you've got to leave it disconnected for this to work.
The aftermarket CAGS modules get plugged back in, but that is a dummy connection on one end. Electrically it actually leaves the solenoid disconnected. The resistor tricks the computer to think it is connected.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 6
From: Spicewood, Texas, USA TX-Texas
Originally Posted by corvette dave
It seems if you put the resistor in the connector then put the two connectors together the resistor completes the circuit and the skip shift is no longer disabled.
I have no other ideas why this happened. I tried this 4 times but couldn't get it to work with the connectors pushed together. Worked fine with them separated.
I have no other ideas why this happened. I tried this 4 times but couldn't get it to work with the connectors pushed together. Worked fine with them separated.
Actually, it's not hard to understand...pushing the harness connector back onto the transmission receptable is the bad part of the idea. If the harness terminals touch the receptable terminals, as apparently happened, you've accomplished nothing. The CAGS isn't disabled; you've only increased the resistance to the PCM.
With the resistor installed in the harness end terminal, just tape the harness connector closed to keep water and dirt out. Nylon tie the harness to the transmission, and forget about trying to stuff the harness connector back onto the transmission...seal the receptacle with tape the best way you can.
The beauty of the best CAGS eliminators is that the resistor is built into a waterproof GM plug that seals the harness end...a similar plug is provided for the transmission receptacle. Try PFYC's eliminator; it's two plugs as described above and cheap...there are no wires between the two plugs because none are required.
Last edited by JmpnJckFlsh; Nov 28, 2006 at 01:06 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,563
Likes: 2
From: Dallas Tx
Here are some pics. after taping up the resistor there is a tab with a hole in it on the side of the trans right above the orange CAGS label.
Zip tie the disconnected harness to this tab. Or zip tie it to another harness in the area.
Zip tie the disconnected harness to this tab. Or zip tie it to another harness in the area.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 32
From: USA
Thanks for the comments.
What i originally posted was in response to someone who did put the resistor in the harness and then put the harness connector back into the connector in the tranny. It worked for him but I don't see how. That is the part I don't understand. As we can see that just completes the circuit and doesn't work.
I know how to make it work with the harness disconnected but liked the idea of having it connected and not having to zip-tie it to the case.
Thanks
What i originally posted was in response to someone who did put the resistor in the harness and then put the harness connector back into the connector in the tranny. It worked for him but I don't see how. That is the part I don't understand. As we can see that just completes the circuit and doesn't work.
I know how to make it work with the harness disconnected but liked the idea of having it connected and not having to zip-tie it to the case.
Thanks
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 5
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by corvette dave
Thanks for the comments.
What i originally posted was in response to someone who did put the resistor in the harness and then put the harness connector back into the connector in the tranny. It worked for him but I don't see how. That is the part I don't understand. As we can see that just completes the circuit and doesn't work.
I know how to make it work with the harness disconnected but liked the idea of having it connected and not having to zip-tie it to the case.
Thanks
What i originally posted was in response to someone who did put the resistor in the harness and then put the harness connector back into the connector in the tranny. It worked for him but I don't see how. That is the part I don't understand. As we can see that just completes the circuit and doesn't work.
I know how to make it work with the harness disconnected but liked the idea of having it connected and not having to zip-tie it to the case.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,334
Likes: 32
From: USA
Zig,
So you're the culprit!
Today I tried putting the resistor in the connector and then I taped it with electrical tape to shield the contacts. I put that connector in the connector of the tranny.
It worked fine but I haven't been able to secure the connectors together to my liking.
I tried zip-ties in every place and angle I could think of but none worked well. I ended up taping the connectors together but I don't like it.
Not trying to be cheap here by not buying a CAGS eliminator. Just wanted to try something different.
So you're the culprit!
Today I tried putting the resistor in the connector and then I taped it with electrical tape to shield the contacts. I put that connector in the connector of the tranny.
It worked fine but I haven't been able to secure the connectors together to my liking.
I tried zip-ties in every place and angle I could think of but none worked well. I ended up taping the connectors together but I don't like it.
Not trying to be cheap here by not buying a CAGS eliminator. Just wanted to try something different.
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Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 5
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
Originally Posted by rob20rx7
This may be a stupid question but is there any need to do this to a manual tranny other then maybe getting rid of the light?
Racer
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Dana Point Ca
Thought I'd add my recent CAGS experience to this thread, for future reference.
A little background. I installed a CAGS eliminator on my '05 in March of 2005; it's been on the car for about 14k miles. No issues whatsoever.
The check engine light (CEL) came on about two weeks ago. Took the car to the dealer yesterday, the only fault they found was "P0803 Skip Shift Solenoid Control Circuit." The tech's recommendation was to "remove aftermarket resistor."
Got the car home, pulled the CAGS eliminator. Sure enough, measured the resistance at 194k ohms. Ack! As I understand it from reading this forum, the resistance should be 2.2k ohms.
After two or three trips around the block, and starting/stopping the engine a couple times, the CEL went out. Of course, the CAGS is now working again.
FWIW, I bought my eliminator from Zip Products. And, kudos to Weseloh Chevrolet in San Juan Capistrano. They could have charged me for diagnosing the CEL, considering that it was an aftermarket part that failed. But, no charge, covered by warranty. Even got a free car wash.
A little background. I installed a CAGS eliminator on my '05 in March of 2005; it's been on the car for about 14k miles. No issues whatsoever.
The check engine light (CEL) came on about two weeks ago. Took the car to the dealer yesterday, the only fault they found was "P0803 Skip Shift Solenoid Control Circuit." The tech's recommendation was to "remove aftermarket resistor."
Got the car home, pulled the CAGS eliminator. Sure enough, measured the resistance at 194k ohms. Ack! As I understand it from reading this forum, the resistance should be 2.2k ohms.
After two or three trips around the block, and starting/stopping the engine a couple times, the CEL went out. Of course, the CAGS is now working again.
FWIW, I bought my eliminator from Zip Products. And, kudos to Weseloh Chevrolet in San Juan Capistrano. They could have charged me for diagnosing the CEL, considering that it was an aftermarket part that failed. But, no charge, covered by warranty. Even got a free car wash.
Last edited by Randall G.; Dec 16, 2006 at 06:38 PM.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
From: Winter Springs FL
I recently purchased a CAGS eliminator from Mid America and installed it on my 2005 Z-51. Shortly afterwards, I got a check engine light so I took it to the dealer today. He said the CAGS eliminator was causing the light and said it could void my warranty if I put it on.
Anyone else ever had a problem like this?
thanks in advance,
Anyone else ever had a problem like this?
thanks in advance,
Member: Jr Geezer's Club
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,694
Likes: 106
How about somebody who owns one 'renting' it (plus shipping both ways) to defeat it? Rather spend the $35 on a permanent PCM solution than changing stupid resistors every 1500 miles. And no way I'd spend $200+ just for that either, especially with an MN6.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Its the Mid America skip shift that is causing problem. The 2 I've bought from them have gone bad shorthly after installing and caused the car to throw a code. I would return the one from Mid America and get one from one of the other vendors on this site.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 5
From: stafford country, va. Avatar: Me on turn 3 @ Bristol (The World's Fastest Half-Mile)
i've 39,500+ miles on my radio shack resistor.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: Apalachin NY
Bone Daddy:
Remember to follow the instructions and disconnect the battery before you install it. Everything should work fine when you reconnect it but you will have to reset the window close feature afterward. Go to your owner's manual and follow the instructions to reset the window close. I also had to reprogram seat and mirror settings on mine (3LT).
I had my car into the dealer and they didn't say a word about the eliminator and they were checking in that area of the car.
Remember to follow the instructions and disconnect the battery before you install it. Everything should work fine when you reconnect it but you will have to reset the window close feature afterward. Go to your owner's manual and follow the instructions to reset the window close. I also had to reprogram seat and mirror settings on mine (3LT).
I had my car into the dealer and they didn't say a word about the eliminator and they were checking in that area of the car.
Last edited by Brianapal; Dec 19, 2006 at 11:56 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,456
Likes: 6
From: Spicewood, Texas, USA TX-Texas
Service manuals always give you an obligitory warning to disconnect the battery WHENEVER you work on cars to keep you from causing shorts, blowing fuses, setting off air bags, or grounding the starter and causing the car to fall on you. The CAGS circuit is NOT energized during the eliminator install, and the PCM has no idea you're working on it. In this case, disconnecting the battery is a waste of time and makes more work for you.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,312
Likes: 82
From: Ridgeland MS
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11
Even better yet, just buy the resistor from radio shack and jam it in the CAGS female connector. 2.2K Ohm resistor.
Look at the 50 cent radio shack resistor mod in this link. Go to Install Documents - Transmission
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
By just putting the resistor in there you don't add any connections, solder joints, wiring ... to fail. Countelss "CAGS eliminator modules" have failed leaving you with your pants down at a dealer. I've done tons of these resistor only mods, not a single one has ever failed.
Your just jamming the resistor directly into the CAGS female connector. Bend resistor into a U shape, Jam it in, tape it up, zip tie it to the side of the trans and forget about it for the life of the car.
There is no reason to have the exact same resistor only with a plastic box and wiring and 20 to 30 bucks more. Follow the F-body crowd way of cheaper and more reliable.
Look at the 50 cent radio shack resistor mod in this link. Go to Install Documents - Transmission
http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...sity/index.htm
By just putting the resistor in there you don't add any connections, solder joints, wiring ... to fail. Countelss "CAGS eliminator modules" have failed leaving you with your pants down at a dealer. I've done tons of these resistor only mods, not a single one has ever failed.
Your just jamming the resistor directly into the CAGS female connector. Bend resistor into a U shape, Jam it in, tape it up, zip tie it to the side of the trans and forget about it for the life of the car.
There is no reason to have the exact same resistor only with a plastic box and wiring and 20 to 30 bucks more. Follow the F-body crowd way of cheaper and more reliable.
I have done this on my last 4 vettes now. It works well.