Plating/coating Rotors
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 4
Plating/coating Rotors
I am sick and tired of the rust that comes out of my OEM rotors (z51) when I wash the car.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,924
Likes: 853
From: Daytona Beach FL
Originally Posted by LOS ANGELES PI
I am sick and tired of the rust that comes out of my OEM rotors (z51) when I wash the car.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Old Thread About Zinc Washing Rotors
I think C6FirstVette's post should tell you all you need to know about how to do it!
Bob
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,160
Likes: 1
From: Aptos CA
I have a set at the platers now. will post pics when done $95 in silver/clear zinc plating. The plater blast and prep them. I have done other rotos with good results, and it does get into veins etc.
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,749
Likes: 4
From: Valencia Ca
Originally Posted by torch2000vert
I have a set at the platers now. will post pics when done $95 in silver/clear zinc plating. The plater blast and prep them. I have done other rotos with good results, and it does get into veins etc.
...just make sure the plater fully understands and agrees that his prep work is what makes or breaks this.
Racer
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Waterford NY
Originally Posted by LOS ANGELES PI
I am sick and tired of the rust that comes out of my OEM rotors (z51) when I wash the car.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Aftermarket two peice rotors are about 700.00 a set.
Anybody have any luck zinc plating the stock rotors? Does it stop the rust inside the vanes? How should you prep them for plating? bead blast, dip....
I have 5000 miles on them and some track days and they are still fine.
I gotta get a solution to this and any first hand experiences would be great.
Hi Los Angeles PI.....
I'm a metallurgist....Have worked as a plating enginneer years ago when I was a grad student, in Cambidge MA., so this is my take.
In my opinion, nickel plating is the way to go, especially if you live in an area where corrosion is an issue....or you part the car outside and don't drive it at least three times a week.
Another view is that if you use the car a lot, rust (Limonite as opposed to Fe3O4) will not have a chance to nucleate/form/occur....
Prepping to insure adherent Nickel plating, which deoesn't fail from subequent bond-line defects, may be a PIA depending on how corroded rotors are now...this is best done when new...unfortunately this may not be the case.
Take care man.
Bernie[/U]
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,064
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by BernieR
Hi Los Angeles PI.....
I'm a metallurgist....Have worked as a plating enginneer years ago when I was a grad student, in Cambidge MA., so this is my take.
In my opinion, nickel plating is the way to go, especially if you live in an area where corrosion is an issue....or you part the car outside and don't drive it at least three times a week.
Another view is that if you use the car a lot, rust (Limonite as opposed to Fe3O4) will not have a chance to nucleate/form/occur....
Prepping to insure adherent Nickel plating, which deoesn't fail from subequent bond-line defects, may be a PIA depending on how corroded rotors are now...this is best done when new...unfortunately this may not be the case.
Take care man.
Bernie[/U]
Thats very helpful, thank you.
Now what about heat? Nickel sounds good but with hard use, rotors will glow orange with heat, up to 800 degrees I am told.
So which would continue to adhere at hight heat the best?
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Racer
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Waterford NY
Nickel plating most stable at high temps; Fussy wrt surface prep.
All plating techniques discussed, Cadmium, Zinc, Chrome, Nickel....look better than stock and prevent rust.
However, the most stable wrt to high temps, such as race applications would be nickel, by far.
Unfortunately, however, nickel plating requires the cleanest substrate condition (i.e.clean suface preparation) compared to the others to avoid bond-line defects and subsequent spallation or lifting.
Bottm line. If yoou have new rotors or can really get good surface prep, PRIOR, to application of plating....then Ni plate is the way to go.
However, most commercial electroplationg shops will steer you away from Nickel becuase it's more fussy....but if you get it (Ni plating) you'll realize this technique's inherent superiority compared to other techniques wrt corrosion and oxidation resistance.
Best Regards,
Bernie
Racer
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Waterford NY
timid38...there's a reason...
No rust yet in Michigan and I bet you don't drive on salted roads after ice/snow. Right?
And...
There's a difference in ambient conditions wrt corrosion in Gloucester MA (Atlantic Ocean) Morehead City NC (ditto) and Bayou La'Batre AL (Gulf of Mexico)...as examples...compared to Michigan.
My point here, was and is...that corrosioon and oxidation resistance is maximized with Ni plating compared to the other plating methodologies. Period.
Now maybe, where you live you don't need the ultimate...most of the Forum bretheren don't.
I have had 3 sets of Baer Eradispeeds on various Vettes and One set of Alcons (more expensive but they were matched ot 6 piston calipers_.....not much rust either...but...
But since I drive so much (85-90K miles/year, my rotors don't get a chance to rust....However, aftermarket centers of the Brembo A/M rotors on my Subaru STI lool like $HIT in comparison...Go figure!?!
Oh well, "ya pays your money and youse takes your chances"
Best Regards,
Bernie
Last edited by BernieR; Dec 27, 2006 at 10:25 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 826
Likes: 29
From: Bonita Springs, FL
Bernie:
How does this plating effect the friction surface of the rotor?
The Ni, chrome, zinc or whatever couldn't be a good thing for the friction surface.
I could see using a metallic pad to wear the plating off then change pads.
Any comments?
How does this plating effect the friction surface of the rotor?
The Ni, chrome, zinc or whatever couldn't be a good thing for the friction surface.
I could see using a metallic pad to wear the plating off then change pads.
Any comments?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 5,253
Likes: 50
From: Sandy Eggo Calif.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12, '16
Any plating will wear off the contact surface during the first few braking sessions, no matter which pads you have.
Racer
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Waterford NY
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 43,084
Likes: 33
From: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
Good Morning Los Angeles PI,
All plating techniques discussed, Cadmium, Zinc, Chrome, Nickel....look better than stock and prevent rust.
However, the most stable wrt to high temps, such as race applications would be nickel, by far.
Unfortunately, however, nickel plating requires the cleanest substrate condition (i.e.clean suface preparation) compared to the others to avoid bond-line defects and subsequent spallation or lifting.
Bottm line. If yoou have new rotors or can really get good surface prep, PRIOR, to application of plating....then Ni plate is the way to go.
However, most commercial electroplationg shops will steer you away from Nickel becuase it's more fussy....but if you get it (Ni plating) you'll realize this technique's inherent superiority compared to other techniques wrt corrosion and oxidation resistance.
Best Regards,
Bernie
All plating techniques discussed, Cadmium, Zinc, Chrome, Nickel....look better than stock and prevent rust.
However, the most stable wrt to high temps, such as race applications would be nickel, by far.
Unfortunately, however, nickel plating requires the cleanest substrate condition (i.e.clean suface preparation) compared to the others to avoid bond-line defects and subsequent spallation or lifting.
Bottm line. If yoou have new rotors or can really get good surface prep, PRIOR, to application of plating....then Ni plate is the way to go.
However, most commercial electroplationg shops will steer you away from Nickel becuase it's more fussy....but if you get it (Ni plating) you'll realize this technique's inherent superiority compared to other techniques wrt corrosion and oxidation resistance.
Best Regards,
Bernie
Under racing conditions the rotors will upto 1400* F ( ornage glow) and 1500-1600* ( white glow).
Racer
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Waterford NY
NiO and Ni2O3 adherent at high temps
Nickel Oxide should adhere well at these temps...surface will respond like a passivated stainless steel from a coefficient of friction point of view. This means that a stable oxide, unlike Limonite or Fe3O4 (both varieties of "rust" will be on the suface.
The predominant oxide NiO or Ni2O3 will be tight and adherent as opposed to the aforementioned Limonite (orange) or Fe3O4 (brown) oxides. Also Nickel oxide is more adherent than Cr2O3 or other metallic oxides. Therefore, Nickel will form this desirebale passivation layer and keep a stable color. I.E., good color and good coefficient of friction.
Bottom line. Other platings will be less adherent and may rub off once hard/aggressive/frequent racing application type braking is applied . Ni and subsequent Nickel oxides wont..
However, as previously mentioned, Ni is a PITA to apply becuase of substrate prep requirements. That's why most commercial plating shops will steer you away from this methodology or charge outrageously!
Later,
Bernie