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I don't think the 160 stat will give you a gain. My point was that I did not lose 18 hp on the second pull after the 160 stat. To give you the numbers:
Stock: 1st pull: 334 rwhp, 2nd pull: 316 rwhp
After 160 stat and LG Pro Headers: 1st pull: 359 rwhp, 2nd pull: 360 rwhp
Any other mods or tune that may affect the temps or pulling timing?
Any other mods or tune that may affect the temps or pulling timing?
The ECM in our Vettes pulls timing with high inlet air temps or with high water temps. The LS2 is a lot more sensitive than the LS1 ever was because of the aggressive timing pull from the computer.
The ECM in our Vettes pulls timing with high inlet air temps or with high water temps. The LS2 is a lot more sensitive than the LS1 ever was because of the aggressive timing pull from the computer.
The car is designed to run generally at a higher temperature for maximum efficiency and low emmisions.
All the 160 does, is lets the coolant circulate sooner than, say a 180. But the ultimate and equilibrium temperatures end up the same. The motor does not run cooler. We have no trouble here in AZ (with common temps over 110) with the std thermostat.
So in other words your car runs just as fast at 205 degrees as it does at 185?
I find that to be odd because mine does not.
So in other words your car runs just as fast at 205 degrees as it does at 185?
I find that to be odd because mine does not.
I didn't say or mean that in any words. I don't even know. The fastest I've gone is 164 and I was not watching the temp gauge!
How much faster does your car go at 185 degrees?
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
St. Jude donor in memory of jpee '14
Originally Posted by Wingrider
Most of the people I have talked to said there is no downhside to going to a 160 thermo, and that there are distinct advantages. If that were true, then why does not GM simply use 160s in the car to begin with? My question is this. What are the advantages and disadvantages of replacing the thermo? I live in Chicago and drive in very cold weather (13 degrees last week). Any issues?
Something to think about. For those of us with automatics who get stuck in crazy stop and don't go traffic in the summertime. Very hot transmission fluid will form varnish. Once the fluid heats up it takes quite a bit of time to cool down.
A lower thermostat will keep the transmission fluid temperature at a lower temp and possibly make the trans last longer (automatics run the trans fluid through a cooler which is part of the radiator). On the minus side beating the car when the fluids are cold will decrease engine & transmission life.
Why the sudden interest in thermostats when there are new heads & a intake to argue about
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
St. Jude donor in memory of jpee '14
Originally Posted by Hoonose
I didn't say or mean that in any words. I don't even know. The fastest I've gone is 164 and I was not watching the temp gauge!
How much faster does your car go at 185 degrees?
A quickie........
When you drag race it will go faster because the problem of heat soaking the IAT will be reduced. When the car sits and idles the coolant temperature increases. A lower stat will allow the car to cool off quicker. Thus reducing the amount of timing the IAT would pull as it gets hotter from the radiant heat around it. You will actually see this if you run HP Tuners in the scan mode.
I didn't say or mean that in any words. I don't even know. The fastest I've gone is 164 and I was not watching the temp gauge!
How much faster does your car go at 185 degrees?
Versus the 203-212 degree temps I saw prior?
Roughly 2/10ths quicker with an almost 1.5mph faster trap speed in the quarter mile.
Same track, same day.
Hi all,
I watch my temp all the time on the dic and it does run cooler in all conditions than before. Is it good ??????
LG in Dallas recommended it with the header install.
Hay Hoonose is that an old kawasaki H1 500 in your sig?
Versus the 203-212 degree temps I saw prior?
Roughly 2/10ths quicker with an almost 1.5mph faster trap speed in the quarter mile.
Same track, same day.
I thought you meant top speed (how fast)...
And I understand about the drag racing and icing it down.
But my main concerns are about the temp and everyday driving.
Yes indeedy! My second of 2. The first was real dark metallic gray and must have been a '69.
Great bikes for their time. I had a '71 (Blue) and a '72 (Orange). Worlds fastest production motorcycle in '70 and '71, then the '72 H2 750cc took the title. Terrible handling, poor brakes but un-godly fast in a straight line.
Great bikes for their time. I had a '71 (Blue) and a '72 (Orange). Worlds fastest production motorcycle in '70 and '71, then the '72 H2 750cc took the title. Terrible handling, poor brakes but un-godly fast in a straight line.
Terrible handling? More like evil handling (like it had a hinge in the middle). One of the worst chassis ever designed IMHO. But fast...
Terrible handling? More like evil handling (like it had a hinge in the middle). One of the worst chassis ever designed IMHO. But fast...
My '69 was wrecked and it had Bighorn (!) forks on it when I bought it for $800. It had a bad steering wobble over 120. Sold it for $800 6 months later. The '70 was rock solid at that speed. Also bought used and sold within 6 months for $800. I don't recall them being very good at cornering. But awesome wheelstands! My '71 Norton was much better in the handling dept. But topped out at less than 100 mph.
My '69 was wrecked and it had Bighorn (!) forks on it when I bought it for $800. It had a bad steering wobble over 120. Sold it for $800 6 months later. The '70 was rock solid at that speed. Also bought used and sold within 6 months for $800. I don't recall them being very good at cornering. But awesome wheelstands! My '71 Norton was much better in the handling dept. But topped out at less than 100 mph.
I remember the 500's not being so bad but the 750's scary in the twisties. The 500's were as fast (or faster) as stock brit 40 incher's. I still remember the first one I drag raced (I had a 40 inch BSA). I got by him but only because he couldn't keep the front wheel on the ground.
They were wheelstanders for sure, you couldn't keep the front wheel on the pavement. A choice from the Factory in '72 was CDI ignition OR front disc brakes, the lack of stopping power of front drum brakes at 1/4 mile speeds was scary.
I don't think the 160 stat will give you a gain. My point was that I did not lose 18 hp on the second pull after the 160 stat. To give you the numbers:
Stock: 1st pull: 334 rwhp, 2nd pull: 316 rwhp
After 160 stat and LG Pro Headers: 1st pull: 359 rwhp, 2nd pull: 360 rwhp
Unfortunately not an apples to apples comparison. Would have been better to do Stock and then Stock w/160, or LG's without 160 and LG's with 160. Also...were the temps the same, humidity, etc., etc...
Unfortunately not an apples to apples comparison. Would have been better to do Stock and then Stock w/160, or LG's without 160 and LG's with 160. Also...were the temps the same, humidity, etc., etc...
my first mod was the 160 and cartek fan module. went back to track and went faster in way hotter weather by a tenth but also can hot lap no loss by heat soak have hot laped 5 straight runs went faster each run