I've been a shadetree mechanic since the 60's, but I have to admit I find the C6 intimidating. I bought some Hawk ceramic brake pads to replace the stock Z51 pads. I tried to remove one of the front calipers by removing the two 15MM bolts backed up with an 18MM nut, thinking I could then remove the caliper. It didn't seem to want to come off, so I just put it all back together. What am I missing here? I didn't want to risk screwing anything up.

Thanks

 

If you can get the bolts off..it is easy as changing a light bulb. Mine came off easy, but I could not tell you how to safely remove them. Many will post here with how. But I can tell you that after the bolts, it is easy.

 

The secret is to hold the 18mm nut and back out the bolt. There's a lot of resistance from the thread lock on the bolt but it does eventually free up.

I had to search all over town for an 18mm open end, for some reason the 18mm is not in most sets and very few places sell an individual 18mm open end. FYI, a small adjustable wrench will work.

 

 

So far we are on the same page, but it did not seem like the caliper wanted to come off. How much force does it take to remove it? I am used to them coming off fairly easily once the bolts are removed.

Thanks for the help.

 

I haven't done it on the C6 yet, but you don't have to actually remove the calipers to change the pads. On a floating setup like that (unlike the fixed on a C3, ask me how I know) when you remove that bolt as described the calipers pivot upwards and then you can change the pads.

 

Just remove one of those bolts, and loosen the other so you don't have to hold up the caliper.

The pads have an adhesive on the backing, so you were probably struggling against that without knowing. Use a flat head to pry the pad away from the caliper. Once seperated, you can swing the caliper away like you were expecting to. You should only need to do this on the outer pad, since there isn't much surface contact between the inner pad and pistons. But without doing this, (at least the first time) you'll probably never get it off.

 

Thanks for all of the replies. Guess I'll try it again this weekend!

 

You might have to use a screwdriver and pry the inboard pad against the caliper a little to give the pads more room to release from the rotor.

 

The front calipers will swing up and you can get to the pads. The rear you will need to remove both bolts and pick up the caliper. If your current pads are worn, you will need a "C" clamp to move the piston's back so that you can get the calipers back on. Just use the old pad to bridge the two piston and avoid damaging the pistons.

 

Or use a 6 inch C-clamp to compress the caliper pistons back into the caliper.

Tom

 

I change my pads very frequently for track use so I've got it down to about 1/2 hour with my 4 year old's help. He hands me the pads.

Take two large flat screwdrivers, stick them between the outside pads and the upper and lower edge of the caliper and pry the caliper out using the caliper mount for leverage. Your objective is to pull the caliper outward from the car which pushes the pistons back in their bore. They are floating calipers - this is hard to describe in words but when you try it'll make sense and you'll feel the caliper slide and the pistons slide in the bore. Beats the heck out of fooling around with a c clamp once you figure this out. It's a real time saver.

Then remove the top bolt on the front calipers (I use a small Crescent wrench to hold the caliper pin from turning, the 18 is a pain to get in and the rear is a different size anyway) and it will pivot down without you touching the bottom bolt. Remove the pads and replace, rotate the caliper back down and tighten the bolt.

Same with the back but take out the lower bolt and rotate the caliper up. You have to pull it up a bit but it will clear the pads so you can get them in and out.

The first time you do this it's harder because of the locktite on the bolt. Next time it will be easier.

BE SURE AND PUMP THE BRAKES BACK TO A FIRM PEDAL BEFORE YOU START THE CAR AND MOVE IT. Many a tech has run into something before they realize you have to do this.

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

I got them all replaced using the suggestions I received from the forum members. Thank you all very much. The part that was concerning me was the fact that the calipers were so tight on the front rotors - compressing the piston a bit did the trick.

They seem to work fine, but I do have one concern. One of the front bolt and nut assemblies will still rotate after the bolt is tightened. None of the other 7 do this. I think this will make sense to those who have changed the pads. Is this a problem?

Thanks again.

 

I've been a shade tree mechanic even longer than you and you will find it very easy. They come off just like most other cars. Every car has their own peculiarity but in the end their mostly the same. I took mine off when I painted the rotors. Good luck.

 

Hmmm, that doesn't sound right, the bolts should be tight against the caliper mount and should not spin. You sure you didn't cross thread the bolt into the caliper pin? That would cause this problem. I think you can get caliper rebuilt kits for about $20 from the dealer if you did, I think they come with new caliper pins & bolts (but I'm not 100% sure).

Also, probably goes without saying, but you should make sure you have ample grease on the pins so the calipers slide easily. Not too much of course!

 

the rebuild kits don't come with new pins. I have spares if he needs them though, pm me and I'll send you a replacement.

Mike

 

I have a C6 with Z51 package --

Thanks for the process - It sounds pretty straight forward and similar to my Mazda. One clarifying question --- Do you have to un-hook the parking brake in the rear?

Sorry, I have not searched this but figure if you can answer the question on the brakes you know this -- Oh by the way, what is the torque spec for the lug nuts?

Can't wait for my first HPDE and I am getting ready -- May 11 woohoo... (haven't decided on what pads to put on yet but leaning towards Carbotechs.)

 

You don't have to touch the parking brake.

 

Lug nut torque is 100 ft lbs.