Which Cold Air Induction
HTS-375400T4-3 (3.75" to 4.00" reducer)
The 3.75" one goes from VR to MAF and fits on the VR SUPER tight. The reducer goes from TB to MAF.
Honker Instructions for 1997 - 2000 models:
http://www.callawaycars.com/callaway...s1997-2000.htm
Honker Instructions for 2001 - 2004 models:
http://www.callawaycars.com/callaway...structions.htm
Honker Instructions for 2005 - 2007 models, except Z06:
http://www.callawaycars.com/callaway...structions.htm
Honker Instructions for 2006 - 2007 Z06 models:
http://www.callawaycars.com/callaway...ystemC6Z06.htm
How about the Vararam? Won't get any boost in air pressure sitting on a dyno, will you?
I admit that I don't believe a Vararam will give the hp that many people claim - the laws of physics just don't support the 30-50 hp claims I read. But I do give the proponents of the Vararam their due. They make their claims based upon 1/4 mile times.
I think the Vararam could have an effect on 1/4 times - actually, mostly the trap speed. But again, I have a hard time believing some of the claims. I'd want to see all of the data on the before and after 1/4 mile times to make more sense of it (density altitude, weather, 60' times etc.)
I beleive that on another similiar thread an engineer got on and started running the numbers and showed that the intake air speed was somewhere around 44 mph through the MAS, etc. and the ram effect would not start until air reached that speed or greater. It is simple to say that the ram effect will not take over until a higher speed, it's that simple. You have to have air moving faster than the base line (MAS etc.) air to get any results.
If anyone has seen a dyno wind tunnel or like kind test, please post on the the Forum. 1/4 mile tests are just to variable to get consistant day after day accurate reading, but are better than nothing to compare all of the different cai at a 1/4 mile. They would all fair better overall on a road race. If they are so great, why are people spending thousands of dollars on sc's, the results speak for themselves. The sellers of these things are getting the greater gains, not you.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I beleive that on another similiar thread an engineer got on and started running the numbers and showed that the intake air speed was somewhere around 44 mph through the MAS, etc. and the ram effect would not start until air reached that speed or greater. It is simple to say that the ram effect will not take over until a higher speed, it's that simple. You have to have air moving faster than the base line (MAS etc.) air to get any results.
If anyone has seen a dyno wind tunnel or like kind test, please post on the the Forum. 1/4 mile tests are just to variable to get consistant day after day accurate reading, but are better than nothing to compare all of the different cai at a 1/4 mile. They would all fair better overall on a road race. If they are so great, why are people spending thousands of dollars on sc's, the results speak for themselves. The sellers of these things are getting the greater gains, not you.
I agree with what you have written. However, I see it as a very simple formula. If you bring a moving mass of air to a stop, you can convert the moving air (dynamic pressure) into static pressure. This is referred to as the stagnation pressure and it equals 1/2 times the air density times the air velocity squared. If you are travelling 100 mph, then the stagnation pressure is .17 psi which increases the density into the engine by a little over 1% resulting in about .75% (best case) in power increase. So at 100mph, I believe the ram effect gives you around 3 hp on a stock engine. Now, where is the power increase coming from with a CAI? I believe most of it is due to cold air. If you are pulling in ambient air instead of under the hood, it probably is 20 degrees cooler. The air density is proportional to the ratio of absolute temp (add 460 to Farenheit). So if it's 70 degrees out (530R) and you pull in this air instead of 90 degree air (550), then the density is 3.8% greater (550/530). The power increase would be (.75 x 3.8% x 400) 11.4 hp.
An example of this would be a vaccum cleaner. Notice how a dirty filter provides less suction. That is how a restrictive intake affects an engine. A clean filter will allow the vaccum to suck in more air increasing effeciency of the vaccum. A less restrictive intake will allow air to flow more efficiently to the engine, thus providing more power. This improvement may not be huge but it will be there.
Testing an intake on a dyno should be completed with the hood closed as having the hood open will allow air to flow more efficiently to a non CAI / ram air type intake. You don't drive around town with your hood open do you? Notice how many seals the engine compartment has around the hood, this will prevent air from easily entering the engine compartment to enter the intake. CAI / ram air type intakes will pull air from the fron of the car so the position of the hood is less critcal.
I agree with what you have written. However, I see it as a very simple formula. If you bring a moving mass of air to a stop, you can convert the moving air (dynamic pressure) into static pressure. This is referred to as the stagnation pressure and it equals 1/2 times the air density times the air velocity squared. If you are travelling 100 mph, then the stagnation pressure is .17 psi which increases the density into the engine by a little over 1% resulting in about .75% (best case) in power increase. So at 100mph, I believe the ram effect gives you around 3 hp on a stock engine. Now, where is the power increase coming from with a CAI? I believe most of it is due to cold air. If you are pulling in ambient air instead of under the hood, it probably is 20 degrees cooler. The air density is proportional to the ratio of absolute temp (add 460 to Farenheit). So if it's 70 degrees out (530R) and you pull in this air instead of 90 degree air (550), then the density is 3.8% greater (550/530). The power increase would be (.75 x 3.8% x 400) 11.4 hp.
Thanks for expanding on my simple explaination, I do not have your engineering expertise but I use a little common sense and I appreciate your imput and expansion on the subject matter. If I remember correctly from an earlier test by another Forum member that he found a 19 degree drop in air intake temperature using a cai or shroud modification, you're right on. I wish others would broaden their realization on many of the mods they are doing which are really not that productive or even cost effective. Some people believe that how minute an increase in performace is an absolute increase. True, but there are other mods which even produce more power at a similar or less cost. If it came down to the wire (finish line) then these mods would be cost effective. Simple mods such as polishing and aligning ports, MAF's, ducting, etc. is very easily done by individuals at very little cost. There are some members of the Forum have gotten out their Dremel tools and carbide sand paper and made these mods and gained alot more hp. Glen, these ideas are not for you because I know that you have the expertise and knowledge, just hoping to help others broaden their understanding. Again, I appreciate your fine imput.
Hoping you and others have good cruising.
John
My concerns:
1. Do they work?
2. Will they void my warranty?
3. Can water get into the engine? Are there any brands that will not let water into the engine?
4. Difficulty of installation?
Thanks for your feedback!
Dave
.
Breathless Performance Parts-Ask for Ernie- Forum Sponsor-Fantastic
Thanks for expanding on my simple explaination, I do not have your engineering expertise but I use a little common sense and I appreciate your imput and expansion on the subject matter. If I remember correctly from an earlier test by another Forum member that he found a 19 degree drop in air intake temperature using a cai or shroud modification, you're right on. I wish others would broaden their realization on many of the mods they are doing which are really not that productive or even cost effective. Some people believe that how minute an increase in performace is an absolute increase. True, but there are other mods which even produce more power at a similar or less cost. If it came down to the wire (finish line) then these mods would be cost effective. Simple mods such as polishing and aligning ports, MAF's, ducting, etc. is very easily done by individuals at very little cost. There are some members of the Forum have gotten out their Dremel tools and carbide sand paper and made these mods and gained alot more hp. Glen, these ideas are not for you because I know that you have the expertise and knowledge, just hoping to help others broaden their understanding. Again, I appreciate your fine imput.
Hoping you and others have good cruising.
John
John, I'd say you are a natural engineer! Excellent write-up. The Corvette guys are actually pretty reasonable when it comes to cost effective mods. You don't see that many people pushing catbacks except for much better sound.
One of my sons just bought a new Civic SI, great car. I've been hanging out over on 8thcivic.com and those darn kids are buying mods that decrease the horsepower. I used your example on dynoing with the hood open.
I tried to explain to them that when they remove the stock airbox that has a duct to the front bumper and pulls in cold air and replace it with what is called a Short Ram Intake (SRI) that pulls underhood air, that they are losing power. None of them believe me because they show a 10 hp increase on the dyno with (you said it) the hood open. I told them they don't drive around with the hood open, so next time on the dyno, let the car idle for 5 minutes with the hood down, then do a dyno pull with the hood still down.
Thanks,
Glenn
One of my sons just bought a new Civic SI, great car. I've been hanging out over on 8thcivic.com and those darn kids are buying mods that decrease the horsepower. I used your example on dynoing with the hood open.
I tried to explain to them that when they remove the stock airbox that has a duct to the front bumper and pulls in cold air and replace it with what is called a Short Ram Intake (SRI) that pulls underhood air, that they are losing power. None of them believe me because they show a 10 hp increase on the dyno with (you said it) the hood open. I told them they don't drive around with the hood open, so next time on the dyno, let the car idle for 5 minutes with the hood down, then do a dyno pull with the hood still down.
Thanks,
Glenn
You know how these kids are, they don't realize that we built the world that they now are living in. They think we don't know anything, if it wern't for us and others before us they would be walking not driving. Why don't they look at some HOT ROD magazine modification book in the book store and they give charts, pictures, and writeups on all kinds of mods, you name it. Give them that book and they might read it and learn some very, very good info and save money for better mods. Sometime these kids want to talk big but can't walk the talk. Check out Barnes and Noble and this would make a very good gift and I believe you would enjoy it also very much. So much info packed into this 1/4+" plus book for $15, they could even order it for you. I would buy it but because of the $4,700 7yr/84k miles warranty on the 06 c6 with 6 speed automatic being the first year I didn't want to risk it and I'm having trouble with the trans and Bowling Green engineer is working with me on a shifting problem.
I would love to make big mods to the c6 but warranty is stopping me. I lost an engine and transmission in an 2000 Honda van at 44,000 miles and 3,000 miles. Thanks for using me as an example, they probably wouldn't pay any attention to me either. To them we're over 20 and over the hill, wait some day and they will wake up but we might be gone. Today too many kids are full of hot air, one neighbor asked me talk to step-son about life in general and he claimed he "knew all about engines and cars." Boy, did he open his mouth. I starking talking to him in general about engines and then about "distributions tubes" for coolant galaxies in an block. Then threw in a rinkle about "spider gears" in rear ends and really blew his mind, if course these are not in the engine, but he had no idea what they were, never heard of them. After I told what they were he said "you tricked me," because we had been only talking about engines. If he was only half as smart as he thought he was, he would be a genius.
Have good cruising.
Best regards and good luck,
John
My concerns:
1. Do they work?
2. Will they void my warranty?
3. Can water get into the engine? Are there any brands that will not let water into the engine?
4. Difficulty of installation?
Thanks for your feedback!
Dave
.
Thanks again!
DP Dave



I tried to explain to them that when they remove the stock airbox that has a duct to the front bumper and pulls in cold air and replace it with what is called a Short Ram Intake (SRI) that pulls underhood air, that they are losing power. None of them believe me because they show a 10 hp increase on the dyno with (you said it) the hood open. I told them they don't drive around with the hood open, so next time on the dyno, let the car idle for 5 minutes with the hood down, then do a dyno pull with the hood still down.
Thanks,
Glenn
Hey Glenn,
You are not the only one. I have tried to explain the same fact many times. But for some reason the younger generation loves those large chrome tubes that relocate the filter closer to engine heat as well as those large tube exhaust systems. The car has to be almost on the ground with the largest tire/rim combination they can fit under the wheel wells.
When we had Mustangs they listened because they saw what how good we ran at the track. Now they firmly believe everything that is written in the tuner magazines. I think they feel we are "out of touch" because we still drive RWD V8s and not four cylinder FWD cars go figure.
Then they wonder where the bottom end power went.















