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knocking problem when car sits for 10 to 12 hrs.

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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 03:40 PM
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Default knocking problem when car sits for 10 to 12 hrs.

05' Z51 17,000 miles makes a small knocking sound in the mourning or when the car sits for a period of time. the sound gose away when the car warms up. was think I should take it to the dealer but they'll say probably ran i without oil. was worndering if their was and suggestions.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 04:54 PM
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Could be piston slap. Or, worse, a rod bearing. Do a search on piston slap. If a rod bearing, it will probably worsen quickly.
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Old Feb 9, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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Doesn't cost anything to have the dealer check it out!
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 12:57 PM
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How about replacing the oil filter, maybe the check valve inside is leaking back and draining the upper passages. Also a lifter could be sticking until warmed up, I have used Mystery Oil in the past to loosen lifters. In non vet engines I tried all different types of additives (including trans fluid) but but finally gave up and tried Mystery Oil and it worked. The engine guys at the parts store kept swearing by it and it did work, it took several years before I tried it, maybe the name turned me off. Good luck!
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by skgrigsby
05' Z51 17,000 miles makes a small knocking sound in the mourning or when the car sits for a period of time. the sound gose away when the car warms up. was think I should take it to the dealer but they'll say probably ran i without oil. was worndering if their was and suggestions.
Sounds like the typical lifter noise after the oil drains out of the lifters. It is a kind of metal on metal ticking sound that usually goes away.
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by skgrigsby
05' Z51 17,000 miles makes a small knocking sound in the mourning or when the car sits for a period of time. the sound gose away when the car warms up. was think I should take it to the dealer but they'll say probably ran i without oil. was worndering if their was and suggestions.
LSX cars are notorious for piston slap...
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Old Feb 10, 2007 | 04:18 PM
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Get it checked. Let them say what they want. LSX engines are reliable but you shouldn't have odd noises coming from the motor especially if this just started. Let us know what they find.
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BADC64GO
Doesn't cost anything to have the dealer check it out!
took my car to the dealer and explained the problem they had the car for 2 days. So I called today to get a update and they said that the knocking sound was normal, especially from an aluminium block... I don't believe them...
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Old Feb 15, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by skgrigsby
took my car to the dealer and explained the problem they had the car for 2 days. So I called today to get a update and they said that the knocking sound was normal, especially from an aluminium block... I don't believe them...
Have you tried the oil filter change yet? If there is a defective check valve in the filter and the oil drains out of the upper galaxities (oil passagies), it could easily cause noise on start up and wear. I've had this problem before.
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Old Feb 16, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Have your car serviced. That's the best way to identify the problem correctly.

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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Same with mine, colder weather starts make it more noticeable. Sounds like a diesel, not loud but you hear it for a minute or two. Sounds like piston slap not valve train noise. From what I understand it's a quality control issue with these engines.

jer
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 07:39 AM
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Small block Chevy piston slap. Let the car and oil warm up for 60 sec to two min, then drive it easy for 10-15 min and it will go away.
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 2006c6keller
How about replacing the oil filter, maybe the check valve inside is leaking back and draining the upper passages.
The filter anti-drainback valve is designed to prevent the filter from emptying of oil when the engine is stopped. But on the LS2, the filter is oriented so the oil can't drain out of the filter when the engine is stopped (unless the car is inverted). So it does nothing useful. In a car where the filter is mounted the other way (opening down), it is important, but not here.
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Small block Chevy piston slap. Let the car and oil warm up for 60 sec to two min, then drive it easy for 10-15 min and it will go away.


Mine was doing the same thing. Brought it into Chevy and they said it was normal and to just let it do what AU N EGL explained. Doesn't do it when I let it warm up. Do I agree with it??...No! Do I have any other choice?...Probably not Oh well
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by shopdog
The filter anti-drainback valve is designed to prevent the filter from emptying of oil when the engine is stopped. But on the LS2, the filter is oriented so the oil can't drain out of the filter when the engine is stopped (unless the car is inverted). So it does nothing useful. In a car where the filter is mounted the other way (opening down), it is important, but not here.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pennys58
Do I agree with it??...No! Do I have any other choice?...Probably not Oh well

Well you do, but not worth it for the average person. I run a 3 qt accu-sump and oil cooler in my car. ( pheudo race car).

When I get in I turn the key ( yes I still have a key) to accesory, not starting the car. Flip the accusup switch, which will circulate oil though to block to pre-lube the block. The oil pressure goes up to 40 psi, after 20 sec or so, I start the engine. No pistion slap.

Some of those old oil advertisments say the hardest thing you can do to your engine is to start it.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by shopdog
The filter anti-drainback valve is designed to prevent the filter from emptying of oil when the engine is stopped. But on the LS2, the filter is oriented so the oil can't drain out of the filter when the engine is stopped (unless the car is inverted). So it does nothing useful. In a car where the filter is mounted the other way (opening down), it is important, but not here.
Help me out here, what about the oil that is above the filter in the lifter area, isn't this above the filter check valve and therefore can drain back out into the filter and thru pump to pan. I don't have a cut-a-way to see if this is so or possible, does somebody know? We might have to have an engineer who is actually familiar with the design of the casting (block). It might be interesting to install a filter without a check valve and pour oil in the lifter galaxites and see if it seeps out (level drops), or do this with the filter off and see if oil can seep out of the filter area. Another idea, did somebody install the wrong filter in the Vette that is slapping, noisy, etc. They, the filters, can look and fit the same but not be the same. I have run into this before.
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Old Feb 23, 2007 | 04:27 AM
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
Well you do, but not worth it for the average person. I run a 3 qt accu-sump and oil cooler in my car. ( pheudo race car).

When I get in I turn the key ( yes I still have a key) to accesory, not starting the car. Flip the accusup switch, which will circulate oil though to block to pre-lube the block. The oil pressure goes up to 40 psi, after 20 sec or so, I start the engine. No pistion slap.

Some of those old oil advertisments say the hardest thing you can do to your engine is to start it.
Although I think prelube's all good, I also think piston slap is a thermal-clearance problem not an oil pressure problem.

jer
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