Shock Install process
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Shock Install process
Hello All,
The UPS guy showed up with my Bilstein Sport dampers yesterday.
Does anoyone have a documented writeup with pics on installing new shocks on a C6? (am I asking for too much?).
I have done a few coilover sets on other cars, but like to have a shop manual handy with torque values and procedures etc.
Thanks,
George
The UPS guy showed up with my Bilstein Sport dampers yesterday.
Does anoyone have a documented writeup with pics on installing new shocks on a C6? (am I asking for too much?).
I have done a few coilover sets on other cars, but like to have a shop manual handy with torque values and procedures etc.
Thanks,
George
#2
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Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: St. Louis Missouri
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Try, http://pages.infinit.net/vette747/ShockInstall
this was posted by MYVetteBy25 on 1/2/07if you want to do a search PIcs and all. Hope this helps. Let us know how they work I may be interested in getting a set.
this was posted by MYVetteBy25 on 1/2/07if you want to do a search PIcs and all. Hope this helps. Let us know how they work I may be interested in getting a set.
#5
Team Owner
One tip I've learned to make the install easier is to go buy some really LONG zip ties, them compress the shock and use the ties to keep them compressed until they are in position to start threading in the bolts. Then cut the ties to allow the shocks to extend to their normal length.
Tom
Tom
#7
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St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
One tip I've learned to make the install easier is to go buy some really LONG zip ties, them compress the shock and use the ties to keep them compressed until they are in position to start threading in the bolts. Then cut the ties to allow the shocks to extend to their normal length.
Tom
Tom
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
I found it much easier to remove the 4 bolts on the upper A-arm, the just pull the shock out. The mount at the bottom of the front Bilsteins needs to be twisted a bit to line up with the lower holes. (do this before you put the shock in place and re-bolt the upper A-arms
#9
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Thread Starter
The project is complete, I took a few pics and will work on a write up.
I got out for a 50 mile drive today and the car feels much better, however I also tried out my new wheels and Toyo RA'1s at the same time, the tires a big change.
As to the shock feel and damping, No more wallowing in fast corners, small bumps are smoothed out. To be fair I will put the Street wheels and tires back on and provide feedback.
I got out for a 50 mile drive today and the car feels much better, however I also tried out my new wheels and Toyo RA'1s at the same time, the tires a big change.
As to the shock feel and damping, No more wallowing in fast corners, small bumps are smoothed out. To be fair I will put the Street wheels and tires back on and provide feedback.
#10
Team Owner
I used the factory ruhbers and bailing wire for compressing the shocks.
I noticed that using the Bilstein rubbers for the rear upper bracket forced the rubber to off center in the bracket when tightened. Didn't seat right IMO.
I used the factory rubbers on front and back.
I noticed that using the Bilstein rubbers for the rear upper bracket forced the rubber to off center in the bracket when tightened. Didn't seat right IMO.
I used the factory rubbers on front and back.
#11
I found it much easier to remove the 4 bolts on the upper A-arm, the just pull the shock out. The mount at the bottom of the front Bilsteins needs to be twisted a bit to line up with the lower holes. (do this before you put the shock in place and re-bolt the upper A-arms
This was the route I took installing my Pfadt coil overs. Just remember: Some will have and some will not have extra shims/washers in the uppe A-Arms from the factory. Remember EXACTLY what was where and re-assemble exactly the same and use the correct torque specifications.
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
Each bolt had a washer behind it, they were the same thickness as as far as I can tell.
Gonna get the car re-aligned anyway
This was the route I took installing my Pfadt coil overs. Just remember: Some will have and some will not have extra shims/washers in the uppe A-Arms from the factory. Remember EXACTLY what was where and re-assemble exactly the same and use the correct torque specifications.
Gonna get the car re-aligned anyway
This was the route I took installing my Pfadt coil overs. Just remember: Some will have and some will not have extra shims/washers in the uppe A-Arms from the factory. Remember EXACTLY what was where and re-assemble exactly the same and use the correct torque specifications.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
The rubber bumpers have a lip that fits into the hole on both upper mounts. I am sure the OEM rubbers are ok.
When you tighten the shock bolt to 19ft lbs the bumpers compress a lot
When you tighten the shock bolt to 19ft lbs the bumpers compress a lot
#14
Team Owner
The factory upper rubbers for the rear brackets have a lower rubber that receives the upper rubber. The upper rubber is tapered and is inserted through the bracket (same diameter) and sleeves inside the lower rubber.
The Bilstein rubbers simply sit on either side of the bracket and when compressed, slip off center of the hole. The ridges on the Bilsteins aren't the same diameter as the hole, so the rubber does not stay in place when tightened.
While I had the bracket out, I installed the Bilstein rubbers and tightened them down and noticed this off center positioning of the rubbers while being compressed.
I installed the factory rubbers and tightened them down, lined up perfectly. Tossed the Bilstein rubbers.
The Bilstein rubbers simply sit on either side of the bracket and when compressed, slip off center of the hole. The ridges on the Bilsteins aren't the same diameter as the hole, so the rubber does not stay in place when tightened.
While I had the bracket out, I installed the Bilstein rubbers and tightened them down and noticed this off center positioning of the rubbers while being compressed.
I installed the factory rubbers and tightened them down, lined up perfectly. Tossed the Bilstein rubbers.
#15
Pro
Thread Starter
I did get out today with the OEM tires, the dampers really tighten up the car, no more wallowing and mid turn movement.
The OEM runflats still suck, but the car is much improved.
For $300.00 this is a bargain as mods go to improve the car, after I get a new alignment I sure it's gonna be even better.
The OEM runflats still suck, but the car is much improved.
For $300.00 this is a bargain as mods go to improve the car, after I get a new alignment I sure it's gonna be even better.
#16
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Check out Zips
They have a Bumpsteer kit that really makes for nice steering. That and the PFADT sway bar kit. add those with bilstiens and you have some solid smooth cruisin.
#19
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St. Jude Donor '07
I installed the front Bilsteins yesterday. Boy, what a job getting the stock shocks off. It seems that the stock shocks are longer than the Bilstiens. I am going to do the rear today. I hope they go much better.