Would anyone who has done the 2X or 3X head/cam pkg on a C6 please post on their results (drivability, dyno results, etc.)?
Thanks.
GM

 

i know there are a couple guys from virginia that had it done

 

Wow! Who and where??!!
GM

 

This guy of the 1/4 mile list is one of them:

10.87 @ 125.33 - Tek-Newbie - 05 A4 - CAI, catback, converter, H&C, headers, gears, intake, tune, DR

I think he's in MD or VA.

 

The car was owned by DJSelf when we built it. The car was sold to Tek-Newbie who ran the 10.87 at MRI or Capitol. He lives in VA and posts from time to time. I will post the dyno sheet later on.

 

Thanks, Dave! Spinmonster has been working hard for you guys to do a stage 3X for me!
GM

 

Thanks.

 

Still waiting
GM

 

462.5 RWHP plus 4.10's with the Cartek H&C Package. I live in Appomattox, VA. and you are welcome to drive my car. I broke the driver's side half-shaft axle at Richmond on 2-24-07 with BFG 315x30x18drag radials. The C6 axle was replaced with a C5 axle. Give me a call @ 434-832-5157 to discuss if you would like to meet for a drive.

 

Near 475rwhp without gears then.

How does the 315 DR's do for your handling/traction on the street?

 

Here is the dyno sheet from Tom's car. It has, Stage 2X heads, Stage 2X cam, Stage 2X intake porting, ported throttle body, ASP under drive pulley, HD push rods, Kook's 1 3/4" headers, catted intermediate pipe, and Cartek special tuning

 

Great. I have them on 10.5" C5 Z06 chrome wheels and they stick out at lease 1". I got a great buy on the tires and wheels, but I'd rather have them within the fenders.

 

Same image

 

This is exactly what is keeping me from going forward with more mods. Your set up is pretty much what I want to do. I'm just worried about breaking things. Although I wont be using DRs and I wont be racing the car. If you don't mind me asking. What were the conditions for the broken half-shaft? Was it from a hard launch on sticky tires?

 

Very nice results, thanks for posting.
GM

 

Kobun we have the hardened driver side shaft and c5 rear from chuck cow, can take a lot more abuse.

 

I know we have the hardened shaft(I actually remembered right after I posted) but is the rear from a C5? I'm not sure the exact workings of the diff swap. I'll have to check with Chuck.

Sorry for the temp. hi-jack. I'd still like to know under what conditions the half-shaft is likely to break.

 

Hey Frank.... You have a hardened driver shaft....It's standard on all my rears....you don't need to ask for it...I won't build one without it.

Your case is not a C5 but an 06/07 C6 case......05 is all by itself and some guys prefer to use the mid section of the C5 rear in the 05 car as it takes a bit more abuse.

Excessive wheel hop will bust ANY rear.....but, heads and cam with 4.10's I would consider the passenger side axle...It's cheap insurance.

Chuck CoW

 

Low RPM (3000) launch with drag radials, and this was the first time I'd raced the car. The axle broke immediately after clutch release. I have hardened output shafts, Cartek clutch, and Bilstein Sport shocks. The clutch is a great unit because of slight slippage when released, and I thought possibly this would protect me from damage. My next step is to replace the rear upper control rod bushings, install a DTE differential/transmission brace, and MT Streets with a wrinkle sidewall that will offer some give when launching. I welcome tire suggestions.

 

He broke the drivers side axle shaft, not the side shaft that is upgraded. We have seen 3 C6 axle shafts break compared to 1 C5. While they are both inter changeable, the C6 unit seems to be made weaker.
There are two different reasons that I believe contributed to the breakage. The first is the launch. After market clutch’s will grab harder and shock the drive train more. We find it necessary to slip the clutch off the line. If you "dump" the clutch, a couple of things can happen, tires hook and the motor bogs down, tires spin form too much shock, and or the tires hook and the weakest link breaks.
The second reason is the radial tires. Radial tires have a stiff side wall which shock the drive train. A slick has a taller softer side wall which will absorb some of the shock.
When launching with an after market clutch, we have found it is best to slip the clutch off the line. I start by holding the rpm’s up to my desired launch RPM’s. We will say 3000 for a starting point. Once the lights come down, I start to come up on the clutch pedal, and start giving it more throttle at the same time. If I have done it properly, the RPM’s will have not dropped below my starting point of 3000 RPM’s. If the car bogged down, I would raise my launch RPM or come up slower on the clutch. If the tires spun, I would lower my launch RPM, apply the throttle slower, or slip the clutch more.
Basically it’s very similar to how you would start out from a stop except at a higher RPM.
The stock clutch has less grip, and will slip some when launching.