Following several threads about free cold air mods, I successfully propped open the shroud with two rubber boots which I had removed from my motorcycle when I installed K&N Pod filters. The Rubber boots went between the airbox and carbs, and two of them made perfect little scoops (in addition to the opened-up shroud) to let outside air into the nose compartment of my C6.

After performing this mod, I left the rain shield off the stock air filter assembly...

It rained pretty hard today and my car was sitting outside at work. When I got home, I decided to check to see if the rubber boots were still in place. Imagine my supprise when I removed the air filter/bridge assembly (as a complete unit) and about a quart of water poured out The water was grey.

I took the assembly apart and the stock filters were soaked along the lower edges, about 1/4 of their area. The stock filter assemblies catch the water comming through the front edge of the hood, and it pools inside the filter assembly. There is no drain hole in the filter assembly. The area where the water pools is downstream from the filter elements and so any drain hole in this area would also allow unfiltered air into the engine.

For now, the rain shield goes back on. Any other suggestions are appreciated. Bonus for DIY and/or free

 

Turn them upside down

 

if you don't have vararam or any bottom feeder intake, you must have some type of rain guard for these raining / washing car days. i custom make one that can be kept in the car under the floor mate, when it does rain, since the factory one is too big to carry around. glad you caught it in time.

 

Quick thinking and a great catch.

 

I keep my rain shield off on nice days. When I know it will rain or when washing the car I put it back on.

 

I had tried that but it did not seem to fit quite right. The pins in the front would not engage. How did you secure the filters to keep them from bouncing around?

 

you have to switch sides then flip them. cut the shroud, there it is again, just becareful, all you got to do is drop the knife and there goes the a/c., around the air boxes after you've switched sides. the face of the filter will fit into the shroud if you cut off the top of each filter box. once you get the assembly back in place, get some pipe insulation and put it on the cut edge of the shroud. this will seal the assembly and keep road debris out of the engine compartment.

 

Unfortunately, mine's a daily driver, and in Miami, it can rain just about any day, no matter how good it looks in the morning!

 

Looking at the OEM assembly I just don't see any gains to be had by fooling around with the OEM air box assembly (if your stock) I bought and installed a Haltech Stinger and did before after dyno pulls (about 3000 miles apart - plenty of time for the ECM to adjust to the new Halltech intake) and I gained a whopping 2 yes TWO HP.

I'm going back to stock as the Halltech gets soaked when it rains as it has no protection.

Tom

 

I gained 4rwhp and 6rwtq with the Halltech I had installed at the time. I think it's worth the fact you can reuse the filters and get some HP gain to boot. I was disapointed in the Halltech quality though as the plastic airbridge is very flimsy.

I now have a K&N aircharger, the quality is much better, cost me less, should add a few HP, and is reusable. A win-win situation over the stock box.

 

CAI's are never accurately measured for hp increase by a dyno. Their effects don't come into play unless you're moving, generally the faster you go the bigger the impact. 4rwhp static is a great pickup when no air is dynamically moving to keep intake temps down. 1 degree cooler is 1hp increase. The free cold air will lower the temp 15+ degrees minimum from the temp sitting still at a dyno in a hot room--and all dynos seem to be in hot rooms.

 

Minimal gains but free is free-I'll take 2-3 hp for free

 

I tried to mock this up as you describe. I can't get the air filter assemblies to fit onto the pins in the bumper support after I flip them over. I would have to cut away most of the front portion of the shroud to get the filters on the pins.

Are you just letting the air filters rest on the shroud, or are you using the pins to secure them at the front?

 

this is what zig was talking about, hope this helps.

 

close...but when i did it to mine (before the vararam install), i was able to get the filters further into the shroud, and sealed the opening with the pipe insulation. it made it impossible to change the filters without removing the complete assembly.

 

Thanks guys for the pictures and comments, really helps