Bleeding the Clutch with Headers Installed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Asheville NC
Bleeding the Clutch with Headers Installed
Does anyone have a suggestion as to an easier way to bleed the clutch without removing the headers? I am having trouble with my car boiling the fluid while I am having a little fun and I am told that a clutch bleed will solve this problem. Thanks!!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 4
There's a GM TSB that outlines a vacuum bleeding procedure. Basically, you put a special cap over the reservoir that attaches to a vacuum pump (the little handheld unit you can get at auto parts stores), then pulling a vacuum on it to suck bubbles up.
I tried it, using a homemade adapter, but it didn't do any good that I could see. Didn't get any bubbles.
More likely what you need to do is replace the fluid. This stuff seems to get crappy pretty quick - some think due to heat, but I'm inclined to believe that the main problem is contamination from the initial assembly. In any case, my fluid was dark and had what appeared to be moisture and some sort of jelly-like gunk in it. After a few fluid transfusions it stays clean and dry.
The best way to do this is the Ranger turkey baster method. Just use a turkey baster or similar device to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Be sure to wipe off the rubber seal when you do so. Then pump the clutch a few times and drive the car for a few days. I'd do the fluid exchange about once a week for several times, until the fluid doesn't get dark and crappy looking for a while.
The fluid is plain old DOT 4 brake fluid. I've had fine luck with Valvoline SynPower, but any good DOT 4 brake fluid should work just fine.
Good luck!
I tried it, using a homemade adapter, but it didn't do any good that I could see. Didn't get any bubbles.
More likely what you need to do is replace the fluid. This stuff seems to get crappy pretty quick - some think due to heat, but I'm inclined to believe that the main problem is contamination from the initial assembly. In any case, my fluid was dark and had what appeared to be moisture and some sort of jelly-like gunk in it. After a few fluid transfusions it stays clean and dry.
The best way to do this is the Ranger turkey baster method. Just use a turkey baster or similar device to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Be sure to wipe off the rubber seal when you do so. Then pump the clutch a few times and drive the car for a few days. I'd do the fluid exchange about once a week for several times, until the fluid doesn't get dark and crappy looking for a while.
The fluid is plain old DOT 4 brake fluid. I've had fine luck with Valvoline SynPower, but any good DOT 4 brake fluid should work just fine.
Good luck!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,492
Likes: 808
From: West coast CA
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Asheville NC
There's a GM TSB that outlines a vacuum bleeding procedure. Basically, you put a special cap over the reservoir that attaches to a vacuum pump (the little handheld unit you can get at auto parts stores), then pulling a vacuum on it to suck bubbles up.
I tried it, using a homemade adapter, but it didn't do any good that I could see. Didn't get any bubbles.
More likely what you need to do is replace the fluid. This stuff seems to get crappy pretty quick - some think due to heat, but I'm inclined to believe that the main problem is contamination from the initial assembly. In any case, my fluid was dark and had what appeared to be moisture and some sort of jelly-like gunk in it. After a few fluid transfusions it stays clean and dry.
The best way to do this is the Ranger turkey baster method. Just use a turkey baster or similar device to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Be sure to wipe off the rubber seal when you do so. Then pump the clutch a few times and drive the car for a few days. I'd do the fluid exchange about once a week for several times, until the fluid doesn't get dark and crappy looking for a while.
The fluid is plain old DOT 4 brake fluid. I've had fine luck with Valvoline SynPower, but any good DOT 4 brake fluid should work just fine.
Good luck!
I tried it, using a homemade adapter, but it didn't do any good that I could see. Didn't get any bubbles.
More likely what you need to do is replace the fluid. This stuff seems to get crappy pretty quick - some think due to heat, but I'm inclined to believe that the main problem is contamination from the initial assembly. In any case, my fluid was dark and had what appeared to be moisture and some sort of jelly-like gunk in it. After a few fluid transfusions it stays clean and dry.
The best way to do this is the Ranger turkey baster method. Just use a turkey baster or similar device to suck all the fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Be sure to wipe off the rubber seal when you do so. Then pump the clutch a few times and drive the car for a few days. I'd do the fluid exchange about once a week for several times, until the fluid doesn't get dark and crappy looking for a while.
The fluid is plain old DOT 4 brake fluid. I've had fine luck with Valvoline SynPower, but any good DOT 4 brake fluid should work just fine.
Good luck!
Former Vendor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,749
Likes: 4
From: Valencia Ca
I took my car in for warranty because I had the same jelly crap under my cap and the mechanic said it had to be something I had put in it. I did the turkey baster thing a few times and it helped some but I still loose the pedal after a few minutes of having fun. I don't know what else to do.
Good Luck
