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Old Jun 6, 2007 | 11:10 PM
  #141  
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I went to get ceramic pads put on today and have the rear double nutted. My 33mm that I have fits the nuts on the axles. The new nuts would not fit the 33mm, the 34 was too loose and the 1 5/16 wouldn't fit., DAMN! We ended up using my 33mm and using a rubber mallet to coax it onto the new nuts. What a total clusterf*ck. There is absolutely no quality control on this damn nut.


Elmer
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 05:57 AM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by LS WON
CV JOINTS???SINCE WHEN DID THE CORVETTE BECOME A FRONT WHEEL DRIVE?
Cars had CV joints before GM ever built a front drive car....
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Old Jun 7, 2007 | 06:53 AM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
I went to get ceramic pads put on today and have the rear double nutted. My 33mm that I have fits the nuts on the axles. The new nuts would not fit the 33mm, the 34 was too loose and the 1 5/16 wouldn't fit., DAMN! We ended up using my 33mm and using a rubber mallet to coax it onto the new nuts. What a total clusterf*ck. There is absolutely no quality control on this damn nut.


Elmer
I agree that the sizing of these nuts leaves much to be desired and that is why so many opinions on which is the "correct" socket....it obviously depends on which batch of nuts you have.

FYI, the 1-5/16 is almost exactly halfway between a 33MM and a 34MM, but glad you managed to get the second set on the axle...it won't come loose again I'm sure!
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 12:40 PM
  #144  
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Just bought a 33m socket from autozone. Checked the torque on my axle nuts. Both were fine. It is possible that my local Chevy dealer may have tightened them when they mounted my chrome wheels last year.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 11:59 AM
  #145  
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I just checked mine and both were loose. The right side needed 1.5 turns to get to 118 FP. The "clunking" noise is now gone as well, so now I know what was making the noise.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 01:37 PM
  #146  
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Is GM doing anything to correct this problem I.E. A Recall?
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 02:22 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Fan
Is GM doing anything to correct this problem I.E. A Recall?
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 04:11 PM
  #148  
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My dealer tech knew nothing about it when he tightened mine Thursday of last week. I showed some of the posts on here and he promptly removed the wheels to find these nuts were loose.

He now says he will check every c6 that comes in, but I don't think the dealers care enough - unfortunately - to be proactive about this. Has to come from the General itself.

A good idea is if someone on the forum has any connections at all with an appropriate GM employee; e-mail or fax or snail mail them this list ASAP.

They should be made aware of it and it should be documented well. Then if someone does have a mishap due to this issue, perhaps a foundation for recompense will already exist.

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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 05:18 PM
  #149  
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Originally Posted by andyandy98
My dealer tech knew nothing about it when he tightened mine Thursday of last week. I showed some of the posts on here and he promptly removed the wheels to find these nuts were loose.

He now says he will check every c6 that comes in, but I don't think the dealers care enough - unfortunately - to be proactive about this. Has to come from the General itself.

A good idea is if someone on the forum has any connections at all with an appropriate GM employee; e-mail or fax or snail mail them this list ASAP.

They should be made aware of it and it should be documented well. Then if someone does have a mishap due to this issue, perhaps a foundation for recompense will already exist.

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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 12:28 PM
  #150  
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Just check mine on an 05 Z51, they were loose also on both sides!!!!
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Old Jun 10, 2007 | 02:00 PM
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For everyone's best interest perhaps this thread should be made a sticky. If the General won't help - for some in time possibly - then this forum can issue this as a safety warning....?? Not sure how that works around here.

Have any moderators posted in?

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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 07:26 PM
  #152  
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Checked mine this weekend. '06 Z51, 8500 miles, several DE's. About 40 degrees rotation on passenger side, about 50 degrees rotation on driver's to set spec.
be well,
Don
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Old Jun 11, 2007 | 08:56 PM
  #153  
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 04:20 PM
  #154  
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I did mine today on my '06 Z-51 with 1790 miles. Performance Tool 33 mm was a perfect fit. Driver side was at least 118 ft-lbs, passenger side was no more than 30 ft-lbs. Scary, is this a quality control issue or are they indeed working themselves loose @ 1,700 miles?
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 05:14 PM
  #155  
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The debate on the correct size socket seems to blame Chevy quality control for the dimensions of the nuts, it's more likely the quality control on the sockets. Who's more likely to be wrong? Chevy or a Taiwan factory?
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 06:07 PM
  #156  
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Originally Posted by ZO6 Fan
Is GM doing anything to correct this problem I.E. A Recall?
It's not a safety issue, so that'll never happen. The cost of doing warranty repairs on damage caused by excessively loose nuts, is probably zero, so there's really no point from a bean counter's perspective. At best, they could put out a TSB and have dealers check the nuts on cars that happen to come in for service.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by haljensen
The debate on the correct size socket seems to blame Chevy quality control for the dimensions of the nuts, it's more likely the quality control on the sockets. Who's more likely to be wrong? Chevy or a Taiwan factory?
The Taiwan plant may have also made the nut. Just remember, the wheels come from china........
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #158  
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Originally Posted by haljensen
The debate on the correct size socket seems to blame Chevy quality control for the dimensions of the nuts, it's more likely the quality control on the sockets. Who's more likely to be wrong? Chevy or a Taiwan factory?
I disagree, sizing sockets is not rocket science, more likely the nuts have had their specs (drawings) changed more times than Paris has changed partners...and now there are three sizes of nuts all using the same part number.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 06:59 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by SUB VETTE
There seems to be a lot of confusion about what this nut does or does not do. It does hold the splined shaft in position so that it is not slopping around in and out of the differential. It does not hold on the hub so that your wheel won't fall off. The hub is held in place by the rear suspension, as mentioned previously by one of the other posts. Perehaps the attached exploded view...
I believe that this is misinformation. I think that the wheel CAN fall off, and here is why:

Your diagram shows the hub assy bolted to the "knuckle", sure enough. No matter what happens to the nut on the axle, and the axle itself, the hub assy (or the outter part of it anyways) is going nowhere; just like the diagram shows.

The problem is, your diagram doesn't show how the rear wheel bearing, and the actual HUB itself (the part that the wheel bolts to) is held into the hub assy, and preloaded. If it's like other GM products of similar design, the tightening of the axle nut sets and holds the preload of the wheel bearing. It also holds the hub, into the inner race of the bearings in the "hub" assy. With the nut gone, the bearing is free to work loose over time, eventually come out of the hub, and then the wheel comes off. That is why you get posts like these:

Originally Posted by LMB 4 ME
Sometimes it would "POP" when I hit the breaks. Turns out my axle was loose.
Originally Posted by CodyC6
Interesting, I was getting a popping noise last week too. When I would brake hard, and then when I pulled out in a turn. Since I tightened mine, I haven't heard that noise again.
Granted it's going to take a LOT of aggresive driving to get the PRESSED bearing to come apart, but it sure can. And granted it will make some hellish sound before it comes apart, but it can.

Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jun 12, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2007 | 09:20 PM
  #160  
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I believe that this is misinformation. I think that the wheel CAN fall off, and here is why:

Your diagram shows the hub assy bolted to the "knuckle", sure enough. No matter what happens to the nut on the axle, and the axle itself, the hub assy (or the outter part of it anyways) is going nowhere; just like the diagram shows.

The problem is, your diagram doesn't show how the rear wheel bearing, and the actual HUB itself (the part that the wheel bolts to) is held into the hub assy, and preloaded. If it's like other GM products of similar design, the tightening of the axle nut sets and holds the preload of the wheel bearing. It also holds the hub, into the inner race of the bearings in the "hub" assy. With the nut gone, the bearing is free to work loose over time, eventually come out of the hub, and then the wheel comes off. That is why you get posts like these:




Granted it's going to take a LOT of aggresive driving to get the PRESSED bearing to come apart, but it sure can. And granted it will make some hellish sound before it comes apart, but it can.
I wish people would stop this Chicken Little "the sky is falling" talk. I can emphatically state there is no way for the wheel to come off or the bearing to come apart due to a loose nut on the axle shaft. The nut doesn't hold any part of the bearing together nor does it set any preload on the bearings. Preload on the bearing is accomplished during assembly of the bearings to the hub and maintained by the hub. The nut holds the axle shaft to the splined inner race of the wheel bearing and prevents alternating bending loads (which causes fatigue) from being imparted to the axle shaft and may result in a fatigue failure of the axle shaft in extreme situations...but still no wheel falling off.

Last edited by glass slipper; Jun 12, 2007 at 09:22 PM.
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