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Hey guys, I was replacing my stock calipers with powder coated ones this weekend and decided to throw these SS brake lines on too. After cranking on the first line where the "hard" brake line meets the new SS line, it just wouldn't fit. We used every amount of pressure and tool to tighten it down, but the flaired car "hard" line wouldn't seat on the nipple inside the new brake line.

I don't know if we did something wrong, we even checked the threads and all were okay. The original threaded male screw on the car just wouldn't tighten all the way down on the new female side of the brake line.

We elected to put the stock brake line back on and it pissed fluid all over the place when we bled the brakes. After craking it down as tight as humanly possible, the leak stopped...but my confidence is low in that fitting.

The calipers look great, but the one problem brake line forced me to remain stock on the lines. Does anyone know if what we did was normal, common, or just a fluke? To put the cherry on top of the mess, we never could get the brakes bled very well and the pedal was really spongy. I had to take the car to the dealer with my tail between my legs, for a "professional" bleed. Their ABS bleed computer didn't fix the problem.

Frustrated.

 

Who made the lines? I got a set of Goodridge SS lines from a forum vendor and they would not seal. The installer (a very reputable local speed shop) opined that the fitting was not machined properly to mate with the car. Never heard of a problem with StopTech and plan to install a set at some point.

 

I had similar problems with some Goodridge lines I bought from Mallett Cars. I was able to finally install them but it took some work. Although mine are now installed with no issues, I would not recommend Goodridge lines to anyone at all.

 

I put The Goodridge lines on. They are fine. The one rear factory line was tight as heck coming off and the new one was tight going on.

 

Although they were Goodridge, and nice lines, they wouldn't seal. The shop teckie said he thought there was a fitting problem with the car line to the new brake line fitment. Pissed!@!!

 

I didn't have a problem with making it seal. I just had damaged threads on two of the fittings (the ones on the hard line). They appeared fine, but the new lines would not thread onto them. I cleaned them up with a die and it was good after that. I also used Goodridge.

edit: If you need a die, the size is M10 x 1.0mm

 

Ive had several issues with c6's, the scoop is that from the factory some of the lines were over torqued and screwed up the theads as they piled into the female end.. using a small file you have to "chase the threads", Its a PITA but it will work.

 

If you still have a spongy pedal, are the calipers on the correct sides with the bleeders at the top. Common mistake is the put the calipers on upside down with the bleeders at the bottom, air will never get out that way.

 

had the same issues with goodridge they wouldnt thread on. after the dealer sent me two pairs and neither worked i gave up and went with stop techs... however the goodridge ones are also too tight lock to lock in the front with steering.....

 

Sounds like we may need to warn dudes that the Goodridge (while nice lines) are not a "direct bolt on replacement" like the ads say.

I put the calipers back on myself, with the bleeders on top. The only thing I could think of is that we bled the brakes slightly out of order after my left rear fitting leaked profusely. We re-bled that one a few times, but never re-bled the fronts.

Our original order was RR-LR-RF-LF. Another thread I saw showed a different order. COuld this be the cause of the spongy pedal? Maybe there was just more air in the lines?

Would a change of Fluid (went to Motul 600) cause a totally different pedal feel???

 

That order is fine, it's what I do. You probably still have air in the lines. If there's any difference after the bleed, it should be firmer.

 

Pretty, but junk!

Tom

 

My car had exactly the same problem, we cleaned the line with a die and after that everything was ok.

The Z06 brakes seem to take a lot of time to get all the air out from the lines, but after that they have been working great.

Good luck!

 

I had the same problem. My mechanic made some mods to make them fit. I did notice a difference after the install. I like the feel better.

 

A well known local tuner told me the same thing.

 

Many have had this issue, especially on the right rear fitting. I think it is an assembly line problem where the person, or robot, overtightens the fitting, stripping the first couple of threads. I had the problem, and had to purchase the hard line from the dealer to correctly fix it.

 

Fluid - no. I think your on the right track with the order. You need to use the order from that other thread which is out of the service manual.
The order you followed may have left a little air in there. Spongy pedal is air in the system. I'd redo it using the service manual order.
RR - LF - LR - RF.

And after some hard stops make sure those connections are not leaking, air might be getting in there. Keep bleeding until not spongy, may take some time. Make sure the M/C never gets too low while bleeding.

 

I'm having the same issues, I started with the right rear and found the connection to be overly tight so I stopped there but I will give it another crack at it this weekend but before I do I would like to hear from you guys with experience:

1. How did you guys loosen the metal line / rubber line connections.
it seems difficult to get a good grip b/c of the location,
2. What tools worked best for you?
3. Did you leave the metal L bracket in place to hold the lines while you loosened the connections or
4. did you remove the bracket out of the way to get to the fittings?

Any special tips on loosening the lines is appreciated thanks

 

1&2: I used a small crescent. It was a PITA as you already noticed due to the locations.
3: yes
4: After removing the rubber line I removed this bracket anyway because I needed to modify it to fit the new lines in it.

 

I used open end wrenches, I can't recal the sizes but they are metric.

On the passenger side I removed the bolt holding the L bracket to get more wiggle room, on the drivers side I just loosened the bolt.

I did not modify the bracket, instead I modified the SS fitting to make it fit into the OEM bracket. Then after getting eveything tightened back up I reinstalled the metal clips over the bracket to keep the lines in place.