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Last weekend, I sheared the right axle on my 2005 C6 with 49,000 miles. The car has been driven hard, but never drag raced. The break showed rust inside the break area, indicating this has been a failure in progress for some time. I am curious if any others have experienced similar problems and if this is a known weakness. Also, any ideas for prevention other than babying the car?
Last weekend, I sheared the right axle on my 2005 C6 with 49,000 miles. The car has been driven hard, but never drag raced. The break showed rust inside the break area, indicating this has been a failure in progress for some time. I am curious if any others have experienced similar problems and if this is a known weakness. Also, any ideas for prevention other than babying the car?
Loose axle nuts? A lot of people have been reporting them. How tight is the nut on your left axle?
Loose axle nuts? A lot of people have been reporting them. How tight is the nut on your left axle?
That was my first thought.
Autoxnut: Check out this thread and see if your axle failure looked anything like this one. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1544932
His was due to a loose axle nut, Post 35 has an explanation of the failure if yours looks similar.
1. ~33,000 mostly highway miles
2. No symptoms
3. The nut took about 1/8th turn on each side, estimated initial torque ~40 ft/lb; final torque 118 ft/lbs
4. Yes, you do need a deepwell, 34 mm socket.
I think every C6 owner needs to check this. If you are a member of a club, just bring your preset torque wrench w/socket to the next hoe-down, and be a very popular guy, only takes a moment to pop the wheel cap off and check. Could stop a burgeoning mechanical tragedy.
Last edited by TrackNoob; May 23, 2007 at 08:05 PM.
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I think every C6 owner needs to check this. If you are a member of a club, just bring your preset torque wrench w/socket to the next hoe-down, and be a very popular guy, only takes a moment to pop the wheel cap off and check. Could stop a burgeoning mechanical tragedy.
St. Jude Donor '06-'08-'10-'11-'12-'13 '14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19
Originally Posted by TrackNoob
Just checked and tightened mine.
3. The nut took about 1/8th turn on each side, estimated initial torque ~40 ft/lb; final torque 118 ft/lbs
4. Yes, you do need a deepwell, 34 mm socket.
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I have heard 33 mm and now 34 mm. Can anybody absolutely confirm one or the other?
Thanks
??? Everything I have worked on in the C6 has been metric. Why would that nut be SAE?
I think it may be the accuracy of the socket at question here.
1/16"=1.588 mm
So, 21/16 (1 5/16) = 33.348 mm
Theoretically, a perfect 33 mm nut needs a socket a hair bigger to slip over it, thus a 1 5/16" socket would fit very well over the axle nut. A 33 mm should work and a 34 should be loose. I think the 1 5/16" and 33mm are close to the same size.
I think it may be the accuracy of the socket at question here.
1/16"=1.588 mm
So, 21/16 (1 5/16) = 33.348 mm
For what it's worth, there's some compounding rounding error in your math (1/16" = 1.5875mm, 1 5/16" = 33.3375mm) -- but it's certainly close enough.
Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Theoretically, a perfect 33 mm nut needs a socket a hair bigger to slip over it, thus a 1 5/16" socket would fit very well over the axle nut. A 33 mm should work and a 34 should be loose. I think the 1 5/16" and 33mm are close to the same size.
The various standards for fastener dimensions always specify a maximum dimension of the nominal size. That is, a 33mm socket-size nut should have a maximum distance between the flats of 33.0mm. Measurements of the C6 axle nuts frequently exceed 33mm. A 33mm socket will not actually fit over the axle nuts on my car, for example.
A 34mm socket fits, but it's pretty loose. That's not to say it wouldn't work, (particularly at a paltry 118 lb.-ft.). Lots of people use these.
I measured the nuts on my car and they're both in spec for a 1 5/16" nut. A 1 5/16" socket fits perfectly.
I'd like to thank all who have responded to my post. I apologize for the delay in follow-up, but I was off getting married. I have the Z51 option and have run about 6 autocrosses on the standard supercar EMTs. The break appears to have started in the spline area. Also, though hard to see in photos, there was rust present on the metal in the break area. I presume this is indicative of a part failure that had been ongoing and not a sudden failure. Any comments? I will try to include a picture if I can figure out how. If not, I just posted the pictures to the general forum area. I was unaware of the loose nut issue, but my thinking is this is not the same type of failure.
Jeff
Last edited by autoxnut; Jun 1, 2007 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: trying to get picture to work
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