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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 05:58 PM
  #21  
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How about these settings?

Front
-1.3 camber per side
MAX Caster
ZERO toe

Rear
-1 per side
.02 toe in

Last edited by mkiv808; Jun 8, 2007 at 06:04 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 06:34 PM
  #22  
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GO 4 It.

Let us know how it rides when your done.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:05 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mkiv808
How about these settings?

Front
-1.3 camber per side
MAX Caster
ZERO toe

Rear
-1 per side
.02 toe in

sounds good just get the caster set about .3 higher on the right side so it wont pull
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:16 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 1fastbusa
sounds good just get the caster set about .3 higher on the right side so it wont pull
For street use as the roads are crowned.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 07:42 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
For street use as the roads are crowned.
Do cars come with that compensation from the factory?

My car will pull if I let go of the steering wheel and I'm on the right side of the road, but it will also pull if I'm on the left lane on the highway. Doesn't really bother me too much.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 09:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by mkiv808
Do cars come with that compensation from the factory?

My car will pull if I let go of the steering wheel and I'm on the right side of the road, but it will also pull if I'm on the left lane on the highway. Doesn't really bother me too much.
alot of the factory specs are like that. The srt8's call for as much as 1.5 difference in caster from right to left.
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Old Jun 8, 2007 | 10:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mkiv808
Do cars come with that compensation from the factory?

My car will pull if I let go of the steering wheel and I'm on the right side of the road, but it will also pull if I'm on the left lane on the highway. Doesn't really bother me too much.
I would make sure to set it even on both sides as roads around here are crowned in both directions.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 07:02 AM
  #28  
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forget the crowned roads. Make it even on both sides for better handling.
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Old Jun 9, 2007 | 09:10 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
forget the crowned roads. Make it even on both sides for better handling.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 12:05 PM
  #30  
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It helped. Car is a lot more responsive.

Still not enough weight to the steering though. It only went from 7.5 to 8.

I might have confused them by putting:

Caster MAX (8?)

Can it go further than 8?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 01:14 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mkiv808
It helped. Car is a lot more responsive.

Still not enough weight to the steering though. It only went from 7.5 to 8.

I might have confused them by putting:

Caster MAX (8?)

Can it go further than 8?
Depends on your camber setting, more camber = less caster.
I think I have about -1.4 camber and 8 caster.
A little toe out really helps weight the wheel but, will cost you some tire wear.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 03:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by C6400hp
Depends on your camber setting, more camber = less caster.
I think I have about -1.4 camber and 8 caster.
A little toe out really helps weight the wheel but, will cost you some tire wear.
I think my camber wound up being about -1.2 or 1.3.
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 04:57 PM
  #33  
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I wonder if an underdrive pulley on your PS pump would give you what you are looking for?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 05:53 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by C6400hp
I wonder if an underdrive pulley on your PS pump would give you what you are looking for?
Don't we have electric power steering?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 07:53 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mkiv808
Don't we have electric power steering?
Had to look
No pulley, so thats out.
Wonder if anyone makes an aftermarket pump that has less boost?
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Old Jun 16, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #36  
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What are the stock alignment specs from GM?

..jack
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 04:28 AM
  #37  
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I noticed that some of the recommended specs call for rear toe-out. My alignment experience comes from 4 years of racing a Spec Racer Ford in the SCCA. My understanding is the rear toe-out is to be avoided because it can lead to unexpected oversteer. If you consider that with toe-out the rear tire is pointing outward, it makes sense that it is trying to steer the rear end on a wider arc (oversteer) than the front. Toe-in has the opposite effect of trying to keep the rear end underneath the car. That is by pointing the rear tire inward, the tractive force of the tire is best able to counter the centrifigul force of cornering. From driving my C6 z51 MN6 at many track days, I certainly know that it doesn't need more oversteer.

I am happy to listen to opposing opinions that have a good theoretical explanation.
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Old Jun 18, 2007 | 09:42 AM
  #38  
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Well, I agree that rear toe-out increases oversteer, but I think that it does it mostly during turn-in when that's generally a Good Thing in that it helps rotate the car. Once its coming out of the corner under thrust suspension flex allows the rear wheels to move slightly forward and toe-in a bit; the initial toe-out helps cancel this out.

Similarly, the fronts toe-out a bit under braking and a little initial toe-in there helps compensate and get the wheels nearly straight at full braking.

I do understand about the oversteer, but I think much of that (at least in my case) is due to a learning curve. There's enough torque available to steer the car with the right foot, and because of the high polar moment of inertia the time required to "plant" the rear is pretty long, so the braking/power transition in a corner is somewhat tricky and must be very smooth. But it sure flys out of the corner when you get it right!
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