Lowering info................










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Here is a write-up I have PM'd to some people who asked about my car:
There are a couple of ways to lower the C6...
The ride height of the C6 is set by bolts at all four corners of the car. They are set in the leaf spring and have a rubber bushing that the lower a-arm rests on. The stock bolts have rubber bushings that are about 1 to 1.5 inches thick. Also, your stock bolts may have some adjustability in them. Imagine lying on your back, looking up at the bottom of the leaf spring on your car - tightening the bolt (turning it clockwise) will close the distance between the bolt's head and the bottom side of the leaf spring, which will allow the a-arm more travel room, which in turn lets the car sit lower.
So you find you can drop your car a little bit on the stock bolts. Some cars have more play in them than others, and a lot of it depends upon where the bolts are set by the folks at Bowling Green.
If that doesn't get you low enough, there are three other options.
1. Pull out your stock bolts, take a hacksaw, and slice that rubber bushing off! Then put the bolts back in, screw them in as tight as you want to get it as low as you want, slap some axle grease on the head of the bolt, and the car should sit nice and low. Be warned that this can lead to two things, though - the car can be much too low for your tastes, and over time as that grease wears off, the bushing-less bolt may creak as it rubs against the a-arm.
2. Buy WCC bolts. These are the same as the stock bolts with the bushings sliced off. The only difference is WCC pre-made them so I didn't have to break out the hacksaw. It also leaves your stock bolts in one piece so that you can easily return to the stock setup. Once again, don't forget that axle grease.
3. Coil-overs. This option is drastically more expensive (around 2 to 3 thousand dollars). It also changes the suspension dynamics, feel, and adjustability of the car. Essentially, a coil-over kit removes the stock leaf springs and shocks and replaces them with a traditional shock and spring coil-over setup. These kits typically have adjustability built into them so that the desired spring rates and ride height can be dialed in as desired. This is a rather serious mod and if you are happy with your suspension, I would not recommend it as a practical way to lower the car. But if you want to upgrade/change your suspension AND lower the car, this could be for you. Penske, Pfadt, and LG Motorsports make coil-over kits for the Corvette.
What did I do?
I used WCC Bolts:
http://www.westcoastcorvette.com/p-4...-bolt-kit.aspx
I wanted to have an exit plan if things wound up too low, so I chose not to hack up my stock bolts.
I installed the bolts myself. I took about 4 hours to do it, but after having gone through it, I could probably knock it out in 2 hours. Just make sure you have a good tool set with some metric sizes.
If a shop charges you over 2 service hours for it, look around...
Hope this helps!
Also, here is a thread I made after I lowered my car. I did it using my dad's tools (he's acquired many over 51 years!). I also helped him lower his on a set of coil-overs.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1558836
, but just remember there is a price to pay for lowering.If you drive the car in real world conditions, you could easily smack the front radiator supports on the ground, cracking them. Several members have done this, even some who have NOT lowered their cars. The radiator supports are very fragile, not easy to fix, need to be welded, I believe the radiator has to come out, etc.
There are many other things too that can be damaged due to low ground clearance. So, before you lower, just ask yourself, will you be really driving this car, or will it be more of a weekend-only show car. If you plan to actually use the car, take it on trips, etc, think twice about lowering.
I actually raised my car slightly because I use it a lot and don't want to break anything. And even raised, I recently noticed that my radiator supports had some scrapes on them, I must have scraped them within the past few months... geez, this car is so vulnerable to being damaged due to low ground clearance even in stock form.
Some members who have lowered will tell you that they drive often and never hit anything. Maybe if you live in an area that has all brand new super smooth flat roads and you always remain in your area and merely cruise up and down the boulevard only, you'll be ok (as long as you never run over an old muffler or other debri or a slightly raised manhole cover etc which is always possible).
But, I can tell you from experience, in my slightly raised C6, I am often just barely clearing things... and I now see my radiator supports are scraped... etc. The way I see it, the more you raise a C6, the better... unless you don't mind going home on the back of a flatbed sooner than later due to broken radiator supports or other broken parts underneath, torn oil filter, etc.
Just merely food for thought.
Best of luck
, but just remember there is a price to pay for lowering.If you drive the car in real world conditions, you could easily smack the front radiator supports on the ground, cracking them. Several members have done this, even some who have NOT lowered their cars. The radiator supports are very fragile, not easy to fix, need to be welded, I believe the radiator has to come out, etc.
There are many other things too that can be damaged due to low ground clearance. So, before you lower, just ask yourself, will you be really driving this car, or will it be more of a weekend-only show car. If you plan to actually use the car, take it on trips, etc, think twice about lowering.
I actually raised my car slightly because I use it a lot and don't want to break anything. And even raised, I recently noticed that my radiator supports had some scrapes on them, I must have scraped them within the past few months... geez, this car is so vulnerable to being damaged due to low ground clearance even in stock form.
Some members who have lowered will tell you that they drive often and never hit anything. Maybe if you live in an area that has all brand new super smooth flat roads and you always remain in your area and merely cruise up and down the boulevard only, you'll be ok (as long as you never run over an old muffler or other debri or a slightly raised manhole cover etc which is always possible).
But, I can tell you from experience, in my slightly raised C6, I am often just barely clearing things... and I now see my radiator supports are scraped... etc. The way I see it, the more you raise a C6, the better... unless you don't mind going home on the back of a flatbed sooner than later due to broken radiator supports or other broken parts underneath, torn oil filter, etc.
Just merely food for thought.
Best of luck

Good points. Add to them the fact that lowering requires a new alignment ($100). If that isn't enough; lowering shortens wheel travel, pre loads the sway bar which detracts from the designed handling characteristics and changes the factory corner weighting. If just looking lowered is your goal, go ahead but if you want to maintain the designed excellent handling stay with stock heights.bobburk; The wheels on the radiator support don't help with breaking the support, they only make it a rolling load instead of a sliding load. Still will break the radiator support (but it won't be scratced!).
Last edited by haljensen; Aug 8, 2007 at 09:50 AM.
I wonder if the C6 can get something like the C5 - the little wheels from A&A (I think they're called frame savers) that go under the front bumper area (should be welded to what I think are the radiator support metal pieces) that catch before the car's nose hits bottom.
It was extremely easy to do and took 30 minutes or so.
Now on this alignement business, is this required, especially due to the fact that I actually lowered it about 1/2-3/4"...
I think my next move will be to hack the rubber bushings on the rear to get the back end down a little more.
Luckily, I don't live in NYC and the roads around me are pretty good, no scraping...











