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The GTO's IAT sensor is in a different location than the Vettes. They pick up higher temp than us. Our is in a good cool location so no need for this mod. I believe it will be worth NADA to us.
So yesterday I install a 'cold' air kit and insulated the shroud from the condensor and installed the Vette Air scoop.
While disassembling the factory air intake I was eyeballing the MAF and noticed what appeared to be a dingleberry from assy. Upon closer inspection, before removal of said dingleberry, it looked like the IAT, is this correct?
I understand GM's desire to cut costs and packaging and all, but wouldn't the IAT be better suited in the intake manifold?
First make sure that there is clearance in between the coolant hose that runs under the MAF/IAT sensor. Then take heat tape and wrap the hose where it runs close to the sensor. See pic below. I also used this tape to cover the brake lines and clutch lines where they are near the headers.
[IMG][/IMG]
Then do the "FCAM" (free cold air mod). I have found that this works well with the Halltech so I am sure it would work with the K&N, Blackwing etc. However there is a better method with the smaller filter of the Blackwing or possibly the new Halltech. I have the original very large filter so the "IceBox" will not fit over it. In the pic below I have a flashlight shining from the ground up into the opening of the FCAM.
[IMG][/IMG]
I tested the FCAM with the stock filter and there was very little gain.
Now for the ultimate in IAT reduction, install a Water/Methanol kit. You can see the nozzle just after the MAF on the first pic.
Even without the W/I on my IAT's are at or near ambient in around a minute at highway speeds. When going WOT after heatsoak it takes much less time. Probably around 7 seconds (I would need to look up my logs to see exactly). It also takes awhile for the IAT to climb back up with this setup.
brett, are you running meth injection on NA? how much cooler then ambient when injecting? thanks
Yes it is NA. The problem in measuring IAT with meth injection on the LS2 is that you need to spray behind the MAF and before the TB. Since the IAT is in the MAF it does not show the reduction when scanning.
I did have some issues when I first installed the nozzle in that it was hitting the MAF wires and IAT sensor with part of the spray pattern. On these scans the ambient temp was 95 and I had let the car idle for several minutes to reach an IAT of 114. I then made a run and the IAT dropped to 77 degrees within seconds. Keep in mind that only part of the spray was hitting the IAT and I was also using a very low mixture of meth on this test.
I did have some issues when I first installed the nozzle in that it was hitting the MAF wires and IAT sensor with part of the spray pattern. On these scans the ambient temp was 95 and I had let the car idle for several minutes to reach an IAT of 114. I then made a run and the IAT dropped to 77 degrees within seconds. Keep in mind that only part of the spray was hitting the IAT and I was also using a very low mixture of meth on this test.
i am alittle confused. with the nozzle installed down stream of maf you saw 77* iat when the ambient air is 95*? couldn't the nozzle be install up stream of maf to give correct iat reading thus better / correct A/f? i know there is oxgyen been release from the meth injection. thanks
i am alittle confused. with the nozzle installed down stream of maf you saw 77* iat when the ambient air is 95*? couldn't the nozzle be install up stream of maf to give correct iat reading thus better / correct A/f? i know there is oxgyen been release from the meth injection. thanks
When I first installed the nozzle it was accidentally spraying into the MAF. I had it installed too close to the MAF and the 360 degree pattern was hitting the IAT sensor and MAF wires from behind.
When the spray hits the MAF it causes false readings and can damage the MAF so the best bet is to install behind the MAF and tune for W/I.
Does anyone have any experience with the Vector Motorsports heat soak reduction kit? The GTO folks seem to speak highly of it.
The GTO's IAT sensor is in a different location than the Vettes. They pick up higher temp than us. Our is in a good cool location so no need for this mod. I believe it will be worth NADA to us.
I think our IAT sensor is in a cooler location than the GTO's. This thread got hijacked and no one is answering the mans question......
The GTO's IAT sensor is in a different location than the Vettes. They pick up higher temp than us. Our is in a good cool location so no need for this mod. I believe it will be worth NADA to us.
I think our IAT sensor is in a cooler location than the GTO's. This thread got hijacked and no one is answering the mans question......
Well Top, the IAT is in the same location, in the MAF. But they still sit in a location w/high temps radiating from the radiator.
I think the thread was answered long ago - if you can buy a CAI or do the Free CAI you will be running IAT at about 4 above ambient. That information was verfied by several people who scan IAT's.
No need to worry about 4 degrees I would think. And not wise to fool the computer by reporting a false IAT by relocating it to, say down in the grille. So no need to worry about this mod. IMHO of course.
I think the thread was answered long ago - if you can buy a CAI or do the Free CAI you will be running IAT at about 4 above ambient. That information was verfied by several people who scan IAT's.
No need to worry about 4 degrees I would think. And not wise to fool the computer by reporting a false IAT by relocating it to, say down in the grille. So no need to worry about this mod. IMHO of course.
That's fine as long as you are moving, but as stated above, when you stop, the temps goes up pretty quick.
When I datalogged a previous car, I had the IAT in the air tube close to the air filter behind a head light. At a stop, the temp would go up to 130* and would not come back down to ambient for about a block traveling at 55 mph.
I made a new CAI using the Camaro SS filter housing and mounted it above the engine next to the firewall. I insulated the bottom of the housing and the tube and the temp rarely went over 120* under the same conditions and recovered much faster. The hood had a forward facing opening for air.
As for fooling the PCM, I don't want to, I just want to reduce the heat soak to the sensor and give it a more accurate reading. Ideally, I'd like to put it in the intake manifold.