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I have had aftermarket wheels and tire pressure sensors for about 2 years now and the TPS never read correctly, always "XX". This was not affecting performance however, as I could still cycle thru all my TC/AH options. A few months ago I suddenly got a message on the DIC that the left rear tire was flat. But in reality, it is not. Suddenly, I can only turn the TC ON or OFF... no Comp Mode, no All Off mode. Here is where the BIG PROBLEM comes into play: I get a horrible wobble at high speeds under heavy acceleration from my Active Handling kicking on. It is so bad, it's like jerking the wheel 30+ degrees from side to side!!! Now every once and a while during a long drive the TPS will go back to "XX" and I can use all functions, but I need a FIX for this issue...
What can I do so that the TPS wont affect my AH/TC...??? Can I take the sensors all out? Can I pull a fuse...???
First thing to do would be to get your TPS sensors indexed to your car. Your choices are the Dealer, someone you know with the tool or maybe a major tire Dealer. Part of the TPS computer design is a no Competition Mode with a non-functioning TPS.
First thing to do would be to get your TPS sensors indexed to your car. Your choices are the Dealer, someone you know with the tool or maybe a major tire Dealer. Part of the TPS computer design is a no Competition Mode with a non-functioning TPS.
...a large tire shop, another forum member with the correct tool, or a dealer can program the TPS for you.
Would a dealer be able to help me even though the TPS's are aftermarket and banded, not OEM and valve stem mounted...?
What could make one sensor go bad? Are they battery powered...?
I'd rather just disable the whole TPS system... that way the issue will not arrise in the future. Is there a way to do this...?
1 - Maybe, can't say for sure until you try.
2 - Yes they are battery powered but should last 5 - 7 years
3 - There are some work arounds. One way is to get 4 good sensors (new or used) and the build a pressure cannister and mount all 4 into that cannister. I have seen another member do this by just using a 4" piece of ABS pipe (plumbing store) and sealing both ends after mounting the sensors into the ends (all 4 on one end or 2 X 2) then pressurizing the cannister to 30 lbs. Reset all the sensors and the car thinks all is good. The cannister is then just stored in one of the rear compartments.
If it was me I'd try to fix your system before resorting to #3 though.
I'm not sure if the TPS system can be deleted/disabled or turned off?
Would a dealer be able to help me even though the TPS's are aftermarket and banded, not OEM and valve stem mounted...?
What could make one sensor go bad? Are they battery powered...?
I'd rather just disable the whole TPS system... that way the issue will not arrise in the future. Is there a way to do this...?
Yes, there are internal batteries in the tire pressure sensors. They supposedly have a 10 year "design" life, so they shouldn't be run down yet, but might be.
When sensors are banded or mounted with brackets inside the tire they have a little more stuff to transmit through - like more of the tire material. The valve stem is supposedly part of the antenna system for the sensor. When mounted with it sticking out of the valve stem hole like on an OE setup it may not need quite as much power as when the sensor is mounted deeper inside the tire, as on your aftermarket wheels. So.....just a little reduction in battery power might affect you more than if you had an OE setup. Also, when some sensors are mounted with bands the valve stem is cut off, and that could reduce the transmission power even more and even a slight drop in battery power could give you problems.
AFAIK, there is absolutely no way to disable the TPMS - unless you rip out the RCDLR, the BCM, and probably several other computers that are part of the system. The government passed a law that ALL vehicles must have a TPMS and tire sensors starting this month (for the 2008 model year) and part of the law is that it can't be removed or disabled.
Ok, so I guess I should dismount the "flat" tire and replace the battery first...? Anyone know what kind of battery they take? I want to have one ready before hand...
Originally Posted by Miaugi
3 - There are some work arounds. One way is to get 4 good sensors (new or used) and the build a pressure cannister and mount all 4 into that cannister. I have seen another member do this by just using a 4" piece of ABS pipe (plumbing store) and sealing both ends after mounting the sensors into the ends (all 4 on one end or 2 X 2) then pressurizing the cannister to 30 lbs. Reset all the sensors and the car thinks all is good. The cannister is then just stored in one of the rear compartments.
This sounds like a pretty good idea. But if the sensor is having a hard time transmitting thru the rubber tire, will a rear compartment be close enough...?
Yes, there are internal batteries in the tire pressure sensors. They supposedly have a 10 year "design" life, so they shouldn't be run down yet, but might be.
When sensors are banded or mounted with brackets inside the tire they have a little more stuff to transmit through - like more of the tire material. The valve stem is supposedly part of the antenna system for the sensor. When mounted with it sticking out of the valve stem hole like on an OE setup it may not need quite as much power as when the sensor is mounted deeper inside the tire, as on your aftermarket wheels. So.....just a little reduction in battery power might affect you more than if you had an OE setup. Also, when some sensors are mounted with bands the valve stem is cut off, and that could reduce the transmission power even more and even a slight drop in battery power could give you problems.
AFAIK, there is absolutely no way to disable the TPMS - unless you rip out the RCDLR, the BCM, and probably several other computers that are part of the system. The government passed a law that ALL vehicles must have a TPMS and tire sensors starting this month (for the 2008 model year) and part of the law is that it can't be removed or disabled.
Bob
I understand all that, but how will anyone ever be able to run anything but street tires or stock sized drs on cars with tps? You can forget about doing slicks for the track, as they are well below the minimum psi and even with the sensors in , the car may still go into limp mode. Also, if it's mandatory for 08 and up, why not be able to remove it from the 05-07 C6s? I would think that the tech 2 or another tuner programming could possibly fool the computer into thinking the sensors were there and at proper psi even without running sensors at all.
Ok, so I guess I should dismount the "flat" tire and replace the battery first...? Anyone know what kind of battery they take? I want to have one ready before hand...
This sounds like a pretty good idea. But if the sensor is having a hard time transmitting thru the rubber tire, will a rear compartment be close enough...?
i used a 3 inch pvc glued an end cap on one end and a o ringed union on the other tan another piece of 3 inch pvc and end cap drilled hole in end cap put pull threw rubber valve stem. sensors wouldn't fit in and i wanted this small and light but be able to open if necessary for a bad sensor or battery, so since they wouldn't fit i cut the valve stems down on the sensors now they fit, all is fine had to recalibrate the sensors. the main reason i did this was the car went to limp mode when drs were lowered under 24lbs
i used a 3 inch pvc glued an end cap on one end and a o ringed union on the other tan another piece of 3 inch pvc and end cap drilled hole in end cap put pull threw rubber valve stem. sensors wouldn't fit in and i wanted this small and light but be able to open if necessary for a bad sensor or battery, so since they wouldn't fit i cut the valve stems down on the sensors now they fit, all is fine had to recalibrate the sensors. the main reason i did this was the car went to limp mode when drs were lowered under 24lbs
Interesting. I have never gone into limp mode before... This is going to be my last resort.
Today I called a "mod-friendly" GM service tech and asked his opinion. He said to throw on my stock wheels/tires and see if the problem persists. If it does, then it is the "brain" of the TPS and not the sensors themselves, and is therefor under warranty (we swap a new one in etc.), but I will still potentially have the issue come up again. Tomorrow I am going to call a local Corvette specific shop who the tech told me is good with electronics and see if they can totally disable the TPS system altogether...
Oh and by the way, I was just out driving for an hour and the flat tire indicator went off, all systems go... SOB electronic crap!
Interesting. I have never gone into limp mode before... This is going to be my last resort.
Today I called a "mod-friendly" GM service tech and asked his opinion. He said to throw on my stock wheels/tires and see if the problem persists. If it does, then it is the "brain" of the TPS and not the sensors themselves, and is therefor under warranty (we swap a new one in etc.), but I will still potentially have the issue come up again. Tomorrow I am going to call a local Corvette specific shop who the tech told me is good with electronics and see if they can totally disable the TPS system altogether...
Oh and by the way, I was just out driving for an hour and the flat tire indicator went off, all systems go... SOB electronic crap!
you have to be pulling some good 60 ft times for the limp mode and be under the 24lbs it throws a code about trans shaft output signal. when you put the other tires on they have to reset those sensors for those wheels and then you can drive near those wheels once a day or within 60 miles
you have to be pulling some good 60 ft times for the limp mode and be under the 24lbs it throws a code about trans shaft output signal. when you put the other tires on they have to reset those sensors for those wheels and then you can drive near those wheels once a day or within 60 miles
Well, here is what it says:
" LEFT REAR TIRE FLAT - TOP SPEED 55 MPH - LIMITED HANDLING MODE"
When I check the tire pressure in the DIC it reads : 0 psi
But I can do well over 55 mph (add a 1) and my handling feels just fine... What happens in "Limp Mode"...?
" LEFT REAR TIRE FLAT - TOP SPEED 55 MPH - LIMITED HANDLING MODE"
When I check the tire pressure in the DIC it reads : 0 psi
But I can do well over 55 mph (add a 1) and my handling feels just fine... What happens in "Limp Mode"...?
when it goes in limp mode the service engine light comes on and car accelerates erratically and trans feels like it is slipping and wont shift but only on a hard launch. normal driving you can still drive a 100 mph for a 100 miles just cant corner hard or any type of driving if you had a flat tire. as soon as i add air the service engine light goes out and the cod clears itself
when it goes in limp mode the service engine light comes on and car accelerates erratically and trans feels like it is slipping and wont shift but only on a hard launch. normal driving you can still drive a 100 mph for a 100 miles just cant corner hard or any type of driving if you had a flat tire. as soon as i add air the service engine light goes out and the cod clears itself
Yeah, that has never happened to me... I wonder why?
Yeah, that has never happened to me... I wonder why?
i use to set the air at 24 and when setting in the pit lanes at night it would drop under the 24 to 22, but i figured once i heat tires it would come up, and it did by the end of the track. but i was only running 1.7 60 fts no problems till i started 1.60s and 1.5s when i got the engine light. i put the code reader in and it gave me the code so i cleared it and everything was fine. then when i launched again it did it again so this time i put the code reader in and it read the same code, so i didn't clear it. i went to the air hose added air the code cleared itself immediately