Torque Specs for New Cam Upgrade
Also what is the deal with tightning "Torque to Yeild" bolts verses just using a torque wrench set to a specific setting?
Thanks,
Correct me if I am wrong...I don't turn wrenches anymore...Hurray for back problems at an early age!
By the way, the point of this process is to insure that friction doesn't cause uneven bolt loading and you get an even tension and clamping on whatever you are bolting down.
Last edited by Keaka26; Sep 25, 2007 at 01:49 PM.
Torque all M11 bolts to 22 ft/lbs
First pass: torque all M11 bolts in sequence 90 degrees
Sec Pass: torque all M11 bolts in sequence 70 degrees
doing this is pretty easy, after torq to 22 ft/lbs use a sharpie and scribe a horizontal line across each bolt head. Once you torq to 90 degrees you know the line is vertical, then make the last pass to 70 degrees, you know what 45 looks like so estimate the rest, if its within a degree or two its close enough.
Finally torque all 8mm bolts in sequence 22 ft/lbs
Rocker arms: 22 ft/lbs
Exh manifold bolts: 18 ft/lbs
Oil Pump bolts: 18 ft/lbs
Cam sprocket bolts: 26 ft/lbs
Cam retainer bolts with 8mm hex: 18 ft/lbs
Cam retainer bolts with torx: 11 ft/lbs
Intake manifold:
first pass in seq 49 in/lbs
sec pass in seq: book says 89 in/lbs from experience better to torq to 70 in/lbs I have found that sometimes the intake bolt stanchions begin to crush at 89 in/lbs
New Crankshaft balancer bolt: after installing balancer with installation tool, use old bolt and torq to 240 ft/lbs to insure that the balancer is seated. The with a new bolt in place torq to 37 ft/lbs, then torq to 140 degrees.
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