I realize this is the C6 Forum but the advise I need is universal to millenium yellow paint.

I need some advice from a "professional" painter. I had my millenium yellow car painted about 6 months ago. Ever since when I "Rejex" or wax the car the applicator quickly turns yellow. BUNCH of "yellow" coming off the car. I AM NOT using an abrasive wax or cleaner, just a very mild sealer, namely Rejex.

The OEM paint NEVER did this and the remaining OEM paint still doesn't.

Any ideas what they did wrong? Maybe they didn't mix or apply the tinted clearcoat properly? I can't imagine it's coming from the base coat below the clear?

I'm not talking a little hint of yellow on the applicator, but turns a white cotton applicator a STRONG shade of yellow in just a couple body panels. They say they used Sherwin Williams paint.

I'm pretty sure I'll have a battle with the shop and need help being educated to call bull***t. I am hoping when they say "not to worry" I can tell them I am worried because it's wrong. It's wrong because they _____________ (fill in the blank please).

What do they need to do? Repaint the car including base coat? Just respray the clear?

TIA.

Rick

 

I can't say about Sherwin-Williams, but the tintcoat colors supplied to the aftermarket by DuPont, the original supplier, are tricoat colors; i.e. a base coat, a midcoat, and then clear coat.

It's impossible to get color on a polishing cloth with DuPont's tricoat paints unless you've broken through the clear coat. Technically, you may get a very slight indication of color from the factory paint...the tintcoat is just that, it's tinted clear to give the tricoat effect...in other words the clear has color in it. This was necessary because Bowling Green lacked the paint facilities to paint the tricoat

Call your local Sherwin-Williams auto paint store to find out if their Millenium Yellow is a tricoat system like the DuPont colors. If S-W's tintcoat colors are a tricoat system, I suspect the painter didn't understand it had to covered with clear. But...this seems really far-fetched; I would expect the midcoat to be almost perfectly flat (near zero gloss) without the clear.

The really bad news is, if the painter applied a tricoat system sans the clear, your paint job probably won't last six months.

 

No white base coat applied. Many of the body panels were put on new prior to them painting. I saw them and they were black.
There are spots like the very bottom of the new front bumper cover where the yellow is thin and the black shows through. NO WHITE.

I have no idea how to approach them/present my case to get resolution.

Rick

 

I'm confused. Please help me out....

1. I've been told the OEM base coat is white?

2. The mid-coat is a tinted clear?

3. The final coat (i.e., the clear coat) is actually clear with no tint?

4. Did GM NOT use a tri-coat due to the Bowling Green facilities limitations?

5. Are you saying the OEM final clear coat has a tint or doesn't it?

Your time is appreciated.

Rick

 

1. I've been told the OEM base coat is white?

It might be for Millenium Yellow, but that is not true for all the tintcoat colors. I don't have that information for Millenium Yellow.

2. The mid-coat is a tinted clear?

No. There is no "midcoat" in factory (OEM) "tintcoat" paint, only a base coat and a "tintcoat", or tinted clear. In the aftermarket, the midcoat of the tricoat colors is for color effect, and it is covered by a third coat of crystal clear. I doubt the factory pack (tintcoat or tinted clear) paint is available in the aftermarket...the only way you get the OEM tinted clear is to buy a car

3. The final coat (i.e., the clear coat) is actually clear with no tint?

The factory (OEM) "tintcoat" paint has two coats; a base coat and a TINTED clear. DuPont's aftermarket tricoat system DOES NOT have a tint in the clear coat. I can't say about Sherwin-Williams, but if their aftermarket Millenium Yellow color is a tricoat color like DuPont aftermarket Monterey Red, your painter omitted the clear.

4. Did GM NOT use a tri-coat due to the Bowling Green facilities limitations?

No, they do not use a tricoat system. I was very clear about that: "This was necessary because Bowling Green lacked the paint facilities to paint the tricoat."

5. Are you saying the OEM final clear coat has a tint or doesn't it?

Yes, the factory (OEM) paint final clear coat that has a tint...see 3. above.


I have no direct experience with Millenium Yellow. I have Monterey Red, which is also an optional tintcoat color. When I went to DuPont to buy Monterey Red paint for a rocker panel repair, this is what I learned:

The tintcoat colors were developed by DuPont as a tricoat, or three coat, color. Monterey Red has a base coat (a dark metallic red), a midcoat (a transparent dark metallic burgundy), and a crystal clear top coat.

Later on CF, Another Yellow and I argued about the configuration of the factory paint; I felt that it was actually a tricoat color, and the "tintcoat" name was a marketing angle. Another Yellow correctly said the the clear coat was tinted to get the tricoat effect. We were both informed by someone near the GM paint operations that, indeed, the "tintcoat" colors are a tricoat system, but at Bowling Green, the painting facilities are inadequate to paint three coats. The alternative was for DuPont to provide them a tinted clear that acheives the same effect as three coats of paint.

The base coat for aftermarket Millenium Yellow could very well be white or near white, depending on the color of the midcoat...transparent yellow would be my guess. If the "midcoat" turns out to be a tinted clear (transparent yellow), then maybe that's the problem...your painter stopped at the midcoat because he thought that was enough. But, it could also mean that maybe Millenium Yellow is NOT a tricoat color in the aftermarket. Go to your local DuPont (and Sherwin-Williams) dealer(s) and ask: (1) Is Millenium Yellow a tricoat color in the aftermarket?, and (2) What is the approximate color of the basecoat?

Generally, the more someone talks, the more confusing it gets...I should have just said, "Your painter left off the clear, go raise hell with him!", and let the painter explain it to you. The downside of letting someone with a vested interest "explain it" to you is that they will lie if it means they have to do more work.

The bottom line is...You shouldn't be getting that much color transfer from a modern automotive finish. I have a feeling you'll end up getting this painter or another painter to scuff the yellow midcoat and apply a couple of coats of clear. Incidentally, you can not successfully spot clear...you have to scuff and paint the entire panel with clear.

 

I have '01 yellow C5Z, after failing to match the aftermarket hood and scrapes to the bumper cover, I eventually did the whole car in pieces using ppg bc/cc. White base 2med coats, 3-4 coats yell base, clear 1 coat, tint clear w/yellow base for next coat, then clear untill u see niagra falls ...u will know your limit if u spray....then assemble, ultrafine and buff....BTW, paint parts all at same time w/ panels in order to prevent shading. That yellow is from the tinted clear....

 

An update for all who took the time to respond to my request for help....

I did not let this rest. I've had several meetings with the body shop to "work" this issue. Finally met today with 2 representatives from Sherwin Williams and the body shop.

Body shop owner stated the man who painted the car is no longer an employee. He stated to the reps and myself he remembers the painter complained he was having a hell of a time getting coverage with the yellow. The owner believes he added tint to the clear coat to get it the right color. As a result this, is several of you have stated, is where the color is coming onto my "rag". They ALL stated this is "not really right, however, it is not a problem".

I disagreed and said I was not willing to "live" with the situation. After pushing the issue they have agreed to repaint the entire car at no cost to me!

Just scuffing and applying a clear-clear coat was discussed. All stated this would be a half assed fix as they would probably burn through the base and get thin in other areas during the scuffing.

It was agreed the right fix is to repaint the entire car. The body shop owner pressured the Sherwin Williams reps to agree to let him utilize "coverage credits" which I guess they issue and he accumulates for issues such as this. They agreed and will pick up the tab.

They told me they're going to pull all the body panels and do it right. I didn't think it would play out this way. Credit to the shop for working to satisfy me. They could have taken a hard line approach but didn't.

Long, pain in the *** process, however, I'm getting it repainted at no cost to me. I'm thrilled.

Thanks to all who provided advice.

Rick

 

I'm glad it's getting resolved. I am surprised, however, that the paint shop/owner is not the responsible party in this and that it's Sherwin's fault.

As the colloquial saying goes, whatever. Don't forget to show us a pic of the completed car.

 

You should post the name of the body shop. Sounds like he stuck with it too and got the right resolution for you. After all, he could of just stonewalled and took SW side and told you to go elsewhere. Sounds like a good place to frequent. Especially since he now KNOWS the correct process Besides, I may need some paint work done some day..............