LS2 rotating assembly--- balanced?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Tallahassee FL
LS2 rotating assembly--- balanced?
After some internal carnage, I'm in need of a new LS2. I've got all the parts (or at least access to all parts) to build a new one. My last question is whether the rotating assembly is balanced. I know/believe the crank is, but what about the rods/pistons? Main reason I ask is I can't find a complete stock rotating assembly. I've got an almost new set of rods/pistons, and 2 good cranks to choose from, the crank and rods will not be from the same set no matter which parts I choose to build with.
Not asking whether it's better to go balanced or not, just asking if it's that way from the factory (doubtful) and whether I'll have to. Time is a concern, thus the question
Not asking whether it's better to go balanced or not, just asking if it's that way from the factory (doubtful) and whether I'll have to. Time is a concern, thus the question
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,969
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From: NJ
If you are using components from differnt motors I would have it balanced. This does not answer your question, but it should at least get you to stop asking Reason being, even if it was balanced from the factory, it would be worthless unless you find a matched set. While the crank could be zero balanced, the other components can not be independantly so you need to balance the "rotating assembly".
I'm not even going to go into the question of stock parts vrs forged stuff, seems for whatever reason you've made up your mind. If it were me, and I was forced to use a hodge podge of stock stuff. I'd have it balanced.
Reason being, even if it was balanced from the factory, it would be worthless unless you find a matched set. While the crank could be zero balanced, the other components can not be independantly so you need to balance the "rotating assembly". I'm not even going to go into the question of stock parts vrs forged stuff, seems for whatever reason you've made up your mind. If it were me, and I was forced to use a hodge podge of stock stuff. I'd have it balanced.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 130
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From: Tallahassee FL
This is a last resort type question. I've got a few (better) alternatives to go through first.
The pistons and rods would be a complete set, the crank would not be from that set.
The pistons and rods would be a complete set, the crank would not be from that set.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,651
Likes: 125
From: laguna niguel ca
Since the motor is in pieces, Why not step up to a forged 4.00 crank, rods and pistons. It's not much $ and the labor is the same. Now you'ed have a 402 and its bulletproof. If the block needs any work at all, you might think of making a boat anchor out of it and steping up to an LS3 block for $1300.00, and putting a 4.100 crank for a 427 motor.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,969
Likes: 8
From: NJ
Right, I'm not sure the assembled rods/pistons are balanced. You could buy a scale, or take them to a machine shop and have it all weighed. Prolly would not cost much of anything.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 130
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From: Tallahassee FL
My current block is junked, I'm about positive of that. I have another one that's in good shape, probably want to have it honed though since I'm in there. The stoker bottom end is looking better and better, honestly. My only hold up right now is the machining. The only shop that could've gotten to it this year burned down, the other is a bit farther, but they're always booked solid. Have to wait for quality work I suppose :-/ I know you can hone a block yourself, but really, that just seems like a bad idea.
Is any machining recommended for the 402-style stroker bottom ends? Cross-hatching looks good on the cyl. walls, but again with "you're there, why risk?"
Is any machining recommended for the 402-style stroker bottom ends? Cross-hatching looks good on the cyl. walls, but again with "you're there, why risk?"
