Tony,
I hav an '07 A6 with paddles and a Vigilante 3000 stall converter and stock rear gear. I wish I would have had the dough to put the 3:15 set in at the same time but ran out of the green!
This stall is AWSOME! No high trans temp. problems and no mushiness at all. Getting the 3:15 gear set this summer. My 2c is if you can get the 3:15 and the converter at the same time do it! If not, IMHO you really can not go wrong with either choice, however the converter would have a slight edge. Also as a couple of the bros have mentioned you will need some hookin' tires to get the traction 'cause so far all I'm doin' is BURNIN' RUBBER,and I still don't have the 3:15 gear set! Good luck and I know you'll be happy whatever your choice.
Fran

 

I would pm dennis50nj. He has a bolt on car with converter and runs 11.1?? cartek did his work and recommended his parts combination. I would give Cartek a call

 

just wondering where i can get a set of 4.10 gears?

 

Fran,

Did you run your setup at the track? Wow, your the first guy i have seen on here that left the stock gears in and went with a converter . Did the converter effect your shift points>did it bounce off the limiter at all? From the way it sounds, you liked it. Do you feel that you could have gone with a higher stall with the stock gears without the mushy feeling?

 

Thanks I called Cartek twice today And Dennis is always helping and giving me great advice, we talk all the time, he is a Great Friend and really knows his stuff

 

1. No it does *NOT*, not in every application and as we stated, we have two different build techniques we utilize here for any given application that we pioneered a full year before anyone else figured it out for the C6/A6 applications. These two designes were first shown to the public in the early Fall of 2006, right before we set up at PRI that year.

2. Not ours... Additionally, our HD differential IRS products have a very unique aluminum carrier half modification we perform in-house that allows DTE to keep building 2-series conversion differentials for the last 5 years without *ANY* negative durability issues what-so-ever, despite everyone still stating to this very day that "it won't work". Our products positive reputation for durability have always spoken for themselves.


As we said Tony, you can call us anytime and we'll be more than glad to give you the straight answers to your questions from the engineers here who pioneered a lot of this custom stuff that others continue to copy to this very day. If our products didn't function as advertised, no one would want to copy us- but they do and they do..

BTW- Whatever differential you choose is perfectly fine with us, just know that some of the information you're getting isn't correct and there is more to the entire informational picture here than you may be accurately getting- which was what you asked about intially. To each his own and good luck w/ your project.

Cheers.

 

Thanks for the info. I didn`t understand the info given to me and i posted the wrong question about it. I am in the learning stage. It came out the wrong way. Thanks for your help Its nice to see Companies/Tuners helping out.

 

Anytime Tony…looking forward to seeing you in the spring.

 

I will be their! Spring can`t come fast enough I can`t wait to see your guys new shop. Thanks again Julian.

 

Tony,
No, did not get to the strip yet, but will this summer... after this crappy Chicago waether!

Actually the shift points have changed (different but not in a bad way at all) and it seems that my tuner will have to get back into the computer this coming Spring as I have trouble with the paddles now. Basically I hit the limiter IF I go WOT from the start using the paddles. Then shift into second.... only no second just revlimiter. In "S" without using paddles it just burns rubber first and goes like a bat outa hell through all gears! MAYBE the Computer cannot handle the change that the new converter is putting down for the paddle mode. I am such a novice at this computer stuff so bear with me. I'm sure that my tuner will set it right as he knows his stuff.

YES, I like it VERY much. SOTP is awsome to say the least. I can immidiately feel the increase in power throughout the lower band area from start as well as WOT at speeds like 40,50,60 and up. Real power. Both my older boys also feel the difference and they are not shy about tellin' it like it is!
I'm goin' for the 3:15 in the summer. Like my tuner said very honestly, "you save nye on to $350.00 or so doing both at the same time". That's the breaks.

On the stall speed side, I felt that what I had learned on this site and after discussing it with the installer at Speed Incorporated (good guy) I felt that this was good enough. From my experience (paddle issue aside) I am VERY satisfied. Good luck and I hope you have the dough for the converter and gear... Then you'll be whippin' my @@z for sure!! Have fun and be safe!
Fran

 

Fran,
Thanks so much for all your input and sharing your experiences. This really helped.

 

Tony,
Anytime! Glad I was able to add to the info you got. As I said I figure either way you go, you'll have a blast!! Good luck, have FAST fun and be safe
Fran

 

Are 3.15`s in a A6 the equal to 4.10`s in a manual C6. So my question is, do 3.15`s = 4.10`s?
And if 3.15`s do equal 4.10`s in a manual,what do 3.42`s in a A6 = ?

 

With the A4 you always tried to run through the lights in 3rd gear. So a stock A6 with 2.56 gears is equal to an A4 with 3.92's (1.53 x 2.56). The 3.15's will have the A6 shifting into 4th gear before the lights. If you want to compare the auto to the manual and shoot for running through the lights in 4th gear, then the A6 fourth gear is a 1.15. So 3.15 x 1.15 = 3.62. If you go with the 3.42's, then it's equivalent to a manual with a 3.93 rearend ratio.

 

whats an a4 with 373s equivalent too

 

Thanks Glenn So in your opinion which would be the best for both street and strip? 3.15 or 3.42 ?

 

Just to mess with the assumption that bigger is better, your question makes 2.73 interesting. Depending upon your mods and trap speed, you can make through the traps in 3rd gear up around 6400 - 6600 and avoid shifting into 4th. With a good stall you can still cut a good 60', and if traction is limited, you make be able to modulate the spin and launch better on 2.73s than with 3.15s.

3.15s will be more fun on the street.

Everyone wants to save a couple hundred bucks and I know that doing a stall at the same time as gears will save that in labor. However, if you aren't 100% certain on where you are going or how much street/strip tradeoff you want to make, do the converter first. Drive it a couple months, race the car a few times, and refine your analysis.

 

Ragtop,
This is great I was just thinking that the 2.93`s would be the ticket and keep me in 3rd You know more than i do so please enlighten me. Now it sounds like its either 2.73`s or 2.93`s

 

On a stock tire (I used 26.8"), if your trap speed is 120 mph, that equates to about 6300 rpm if you had no converter slip. With converter slip, call it 6600 rpm. I know you don't trap that high today, but after you add a cam, you'll be there. (Don't act like that hasn't crossed your mind ) Now if you run a bit taller tire or spin to 6800 rpm you can trap higher or add more gear and not shift into 4th. With good tuning and TM removed the 3-4 shift may not hurt ET, although it is extra wear on the tranny.

I still like 3.15s as an overall solution if you are going to get some good rubber. My point is that a big stall and 2.73s might (and I say might) be the quickest combination down the track. That doesn't mean you'd like driving around daily with it compared with a moderate stall and 3.15s.

 

[QUOTE=Ragtop 99] (Don't act like that hasn't crossed your mind )