tune out TPS?
He then told me that he thinks you can tune out the TPMS...
a) Is this true?
b) If so, does it tune it out completely or just when there aren't TPS in the wheels?
c) Is there a way to temporarily turn it off, then turn it back one when I put my normal runflats back on?
My goal is to have non-runflats for the track and then runflats with operational TPMS for the street. Possibilities?
Thanks for the feedback.
He then told me that he thinks you can tune out the TPMS...
a) Is this true?
b) If so, does it tune it out completely or just when there aren't TPS in the wheels?
c) Is there a way to temporarily turn it off, then turn it back one when I put my normal runflats back on?
My goal is to have non-runflats for the track and then runflats with operational TPMS for the street. Possibilities?
Thanks for the feedback.
Not true - you can't "tune it out".
I believe the C5 Z06 came without sensors and the TPMS was deactivated. If you wanted to run sensors you could get the dealership to turn on the TPMS with a Tech 2.
Butt.....on all models of the C6 the TPMS is hardwired/programmed in, and there is no way to deactivate it.
Well.....at an HPDE I ran earlier this month there was a race prepped C6 there. They had removed about all the computers except the PCM and the EBCM for the ABS. The windows had been removed and there were web nets over the window area. I asked if they had to reach in and pull the mechanical release down on the floor to open the door, but they showed me a pull cable that ran up by the rear of the door that opened it.
There was a cooler for the driver's cool-suit sitting on the floor where the passenger seat would be. Velcroed on top of the cooler was the FOB so they could start the car with the OE ignition button.
To get rid of the TPMS you'd have to remove several computers such as the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) and the BCM (Body Control Module). If you removed those you'd have to make some arrangements like the race car to get in and out!
The software code is so far down inside those computers and so wrapped together to integrate a bunch of other systems that I don't think you could get in there and figure out how or what to change to disable the TPMS functions.
Bob
Many who track their car just get sensors and a tool to reset them.
Many others have no problems without sensors.
It kinda depends on your car, to some extent - cars built at different times seem to have different tolerances for running without sensors.
Actually, if you do not have sensors in any of your wheels you may not have much problem. The car is expecting to have the sensors check in after you start driving, but if none have sent any data to the TPMS after one straight hour of driving (without shutting down the engine) it will automatically turn on AH (if it was off). If you shut down and restart that should recycle the TPMS and you can clear any DIC messages, turn off AH or go into Comp mode, and run again for another hour. Since HPDE or auto-x sessions aren't usually longer than that, you probably won't have a problem, however many owners just get sensors in their track wheels/tires to avoid the problem with AH, and also the so-called "limp mode" problems where the PCM may pull timing and/or reduce fuel on you with TPMS indications of sensor problems.
There have also been several forum members that have built a cannister to hold their sensors that they can pressurize and put in a cubby hole in the hatch. The sensors send a signal to the TPMS that they are sensing a good pressure and the TPMS functions normally.
If you're drag racing and just swap out your rear wheels/tires that don't have sensors, you may get an almost immediate indication of a TPMS problem. However, for drag racing you don't need to turn off AH so that's usually not the problem. If you run real low pressures in your DR's you may get low pressure indications and get "limp mode" problems.
So....I run sensors in my HPDE wheels/tires. I like having the pressure readings, and if you're running runflats you really should have sensors because you just don't get the handling feedback from losing pressure like you do in a tire with a softer sidewall.
Bob
Many others have no problems without sensors.
It kinda depends on your car, to some extent - cars built at different times seem to have different tolerances for running without sensors.
Actually, if you do not have sensors in any of your wheels you may not have much problem. The car is expecting to have the sensors check in after you start driving, but if none have sent any data to the TPMS after one straight hour of driving (without shutting down the engine) it will automatically turn on AH (if it was off). If you shut down and restart that should recycle the TPMS and you can clear any DIC messages, turn off AH or go into Comp mode, and run again for another hour. Since HPDE or auto-x sessions aren't usually longer than that, you probably won't have a problem, however many owners just get sensors in their track wheels/tires to avoid the problem with AH, and also the so-called "limp mode" problems where the PCM may pull timing and/or reduce fuel on you with TPMS indications of sensor problems.
There have also been several forum members that have built a cannister to hold their sensors that they can pressurize and put in a cubby hole in the hatch. The sensors send a signal to the TPMS that they are sensing a good pressure and the TPMS functions normally.
If you're drag racing and just swap out your rear wheels/tires that don't have sensors, you may get an almost immediate indication of a TPMS problem. However, for drag racing you don't need to turn off AH so that's usually not the problem. If you run real low pressures in your DR's you may get low pressure indications and get "limp mode" problems.
So....I run sensors in my HPDE wheels/tires. I like having the pressure readings, and if you're running runflats you really should have sensors because you just don't get the handling feedback from losing pressure like you do in a tire with a softer sidewall.
Bob

Mount the pipe in the center of the car, and program each of the four sensors.
This way the cars puter thinks there are four TPS sensors always reading 32 psi, and these guys change wheels with no problems.
Good Luck
For sensors, there are several forum vendors that can provide you with them. Gene Culley ( http://gmpartshouse.com ), or PartsBob at Fichtner (800-234-5284 parts@fichtnerchevrolet.com ). They provide new GM sensors for around $220 with shipping. You'll need to order GM Part# 25758220, plus the retaining nuts.
Or, forum vendor Bob at House of Wheels ( http://www.houseofwheelsonline.com/ ) has new sensors for around $190 for a set of 4 with the nuts. Our sensors are made by Schrader and the ones Bob has come direct from Schrader so they avoid the GM tax so are a little cheaper.
I've got a universal tool for $200 that will work on all sensors on all vehicles, and I've got a set of used sensors for $160. If interested send me a PM.
If you're mounting the sensors in OE wheels they just mount inside the wheel and stick right out the valve stem hole and the retaining nut holds them in place. Many aftermarket wheels mount the same way, but some of the exotic wheels don't mount that way and have to be banded or strapped inside the wheel, or there is a mounting bracket that can be used. This adds another chunk of change into the setup and registering the sensors (especially rear wheel sensors) that are mounted inside the wheel can sometimes be problematic.
So, that's what we're dealing with!!! It's a PITA, but as I mentioned, starting with the 2008 model year, ALL 4-wheeled vehicles under 10,000 pounds must have sensors due to a federal law enacted after the problems with Phord Explorers flipping over and killing soccer moms and their kids a few years ago because nobody was checking their tire pressures.
Bob









