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I use Amsoil 0w30 in my C6 right now but will also consider the German Castrol synthetic and possibly even Pennzoil Platinum synthetic that I use in my Camaro Z28 next time as well.
Originally Posted by dkrhardy
Syn is Syn, isn't it?
No, not really.
Sort of like with gasoline (say using Delta premium fuel instead of Amoco Ultimate 93) or even using Kumho tires instead of Michelin tires, either one will work well but there are elements that could make one product simply better than the other.
Mobil 1 in every vehicle since our '92 LT1 came from the factory with it. Have Mobil 1 in our '92 LT1, used it in our 2000 LS1 (sold) and will be using it in the new '08 LS3 when it arrives. Also use it in our '06 Hemi Charger RT and '06 Jeep GC Hemi. Change it every 3,000 miles...
Anyone on here use redline? I was buying 5 quarts of 10-W30 for my 2006 Lancer Evolution for it's every 3000 mile oil change, and when I told the store employee the redline's been in my motor for (Only??) 3000 miles, he told me that people usually leave that stuff in their cars for 15 thousand miles at a time! I changed my oil that anyway.
I have Redline 5w-30 in my LS3 now, will change when DIC says to
LPE and Katech recomend 15w 50!!! That is shocking, everything I have read on BITOG and performance oil sites completely contradict that. 15W is a very thick oil and during cold starts will not lubricate quickly at all. You can't go to low with synthetic oil on the Weight with cold starting, I would not use anything more than 5W, 0W is the best for could starts (and no it is not to thin as most people believe) And to have 50 at 100 C is way to thick for the tight tolerances of todays motors, you want a oil that flows well at high temps. 50 is an old belief that you need a very thick oil at high rpm and temps, yeah it makes your oil pressure look real good but it does not flow well which inturn means it doesn't transfer heat as well which means higher oil temps. What you want is an oil that has a great shear rating, good viscosity at 100 C and yet flows very well to remove heat from the motor.
LPE and Katech recomend 15w 50!!! That is shocking, everything I have read on BITOG and performance oil sites completely contradict that. 15W is a very thick oil and during cold starts will not lubricate quickly at all. You can't go to low with synthetic oil on the Weight with cold starting, I would not use anything more than 5W, 0W is the best for could starts (and no it is not to thin as most people believe) And to have 50 at 100 C is way to thick for the tight tolerances of todays motors, you want a oil that flows well at high temps. 50 is an old belief that you need a very thick oil at high rpm and temps, yeah it makes your oil pressure look real good but it does not flow well which inturn means it doesn't transfer heat as well which means higher oil temps. What you want is an oil that has a great shear rating, good viscosity at 100 C and yet flows very well to remove heat from the motor.
check any good engine builder, Charlie @ RPM motors built mine. He'll tell you that rod and main bearing clearences are the same as forty years ago. Cranks go round and round and pistons go up and down. They don't know what year it is. I live in southern California it never gets that cold, and mobil one flows well no matter what weight it is. I've got .0055 piston to cylinder was clearence. Believe me if 10-30 would work i'ed be using it. Remember thinner oils also give better milage which is another reason GM recomends it.
Also I've got a 4.100 stroke which means my piostons come down and out of the sleeve somewhat, and that upsets my rings a little. So the thicker oil helps. You got to use what works. Mine is a special case. It's not a stocker, so the rules that GM recomends don't apply.
Well what about up here in the Northeast during the dead of winter or even further north like Buffalo or even Canada, would these thicker 15w50 weights still be recommended in those climates/conditions?
Well what about up here in the Northeast during the dead of winter or even further north like Buffalo or even Canada, would these thicker 15w50 weights still be recommended in those climates/conditions?
Up there I would definitely use the 0W oils, either the GC or the Amsoil SSO 0w 30. The great thing about the GC is that it flows extreme well during cold starts yet is thicker than your average 30 at 100 C it is rated at 12.1 where most 30's are around 10 to 11.
Well what about up here in the Northeast during the dead of winter or even further north like Buffalo or even Canada, would these thicker 15w50 weights still be recommended in those climates/conditions?
Good question, You know, I had an 85 C4 With a stroker 383 in it using K&B hyperutectics and The engine builder used castrol 15-50 in it and I had taken it to utah sking many times. Let me tell you at 9700 feet It's cold in the teens and lower in the morning, and it started and idled fine, oil pressure came up instantly no lag. I never had trouble with that motor. All I know is what worked for me in the real world. My cars have been everywhere hot summers in Las Vegas,and cold sking in Utah. I will say that this is the first LS type motor that I've used 15-50; all my others I used 10-30 and never had any problems. I can tell you this the flow characteristics of 15-50 mobil 1 oil today flows much better than the conventional oils of 20 years ago. That a fact. Since I'm not an oil engineer though maybe calling mobil 1 hot line could answer your question better than me. Again, If I could use 10-30 I would, better fuel milage.
On the 15w50 vs xw30 discusion, I personally wouldn't use a 15w50 in a daily driven car, particularly in winter. The LSx engines are designed to operate with an oil with viscosity in the range of 10-12 cST, which is what most 30 grade oils are at a normal operating temp of 100C (212F). For comparison, Mobil 1 5w30's viscosity at 40C (100F) is 64.8, about six times higher than it is at 212F. And that's at a relatively warm 100F. It is much less viscous as it gets colder. Compare those numbers to that of Mobil 1 15w50, which is 18.1 cSt at 212F and 131.2 at 100F, over double that of the 5w30. If I did run 15w50, I'd be very very careful with the throttle until the oil was at least 150F.
I do run 10w40 on the track, but that is only after warming up the oil for about 15 minutes.
Just switched to Royal Purple in my p-car, and for that car at least, it does feel like it revs easier (as the advertising claims). For those of you ready to reply, I have owned this p-car for 6 years and know the revs quite well with Mobil 1 since new. Royal Purple revs easier.