How many of you guys have installed your headers yourself? I am planning on a set of LG's for my 07 MN6 and wondered if anyone has any gotchas or helpful hints they want to share? Such as: do they drop from the top or come up from the bottom? Same on both sides? How much ancillary hardware needs to be removed in order to get them in? Besides new exhaust gaskets and bolts, are there any others things I need to pick up? I thought I saw something about extensions for the O2 sensors. Is that true?

TIA

Paul

 

I'm surprised no one has responded to your inquiry. I haven't personally done an install, but I just watched my son and fellow forum member, TimD38, do an install on his car. They installed an Elite Engineering tunnel plate, new sway bars and a set of B&B headers in less than 8 hours. I was surprised to see how straight forward the header install is. After removing the FRC's, spark plugs and the exhaust manifold bolts from the top, I think the rest of the removal is from underneath. They also reused the stock gaskets and bolts. Just be sure to use a high temperature anti-seize product on the threads. They had the car about 20" off the ground and it was all pretty smooth. I believe they learned a few tricks they could use if they ever do it again. For one, it looks like it would be easier to install the O2 sensors before installing the headers. Also, be sure to confirm the O2 harness extensions are long enough before doing the job. That was the only thing that prevented them from completing the install the day they did the job. I'm sure others will respond, but based on my obversations, it was no where as daunting as I thought it would be.

 

Here`s a link to my install w/ pics and directions:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1441406

 

I have installed all three popular brands of headers in a C6.
All of them install from underneath. You need to get the front fairly high because the LG primary tubes are so long.
At least with jack stands, the American Racing headers go in much easier. Most of the instructions tell you to remove the spark plugs and the starter, but we just did a set of American Racing and only removed the rear two spark plugs on the passenger side. We also removed the two starter bolts, but left the starter and all the wires in place. With the two main starter bolts removed, we were able to swivel the starter around enough to slip the passenger side header into place. The driver side went right in and was bolted in only a few minutes!
Make sure you spray all the exhaust clamp and manifold to converter bolts & studs with a good liquid wrench first thing. Also, make sure you have an 7/8" O2 sensor socket as the two front O2 sensors are recessed into the exhaust manifold. A 14MM reversible racheting wrench (Craftsman) works great on the header bolts that go into the cylinder head. Gene Culley has the new style GM gaskets and stock bolts, but on a couple of our jobs we just reused the originals. Yes, you will need four O2 extension wires (these were included with the American Racing headers).
This last time we did the entire job in less than two hours and were not even rushed. The header install was a lot faster than installing powder coated calipers!

 

That's what I'm talking about. Thanks guys. I've always worked on my own cars just never on a vette so I wanted just this kind of info. I have a quick lift so it should be just about right for this job. The LG Long Tubes come with new rear O2 sensors with the correct length wire so that should be a breeze. I was surprized everyone recommends reusing the header gaskets but it's been a common theme so I guess they must be pretty stout. My last car was much more difficult than this sounds so it should go pretty smoothly.

I appreciate the feedback!

Paul

 

I installed the AR headers... on a lift. less than 2 hours taking my time!!
The above poster was right.. installing upgraded rotors/calipers took longer than this..
It is pretty simple! Good Luck

 

I installed my Kooks headers and corsa sports about 3 or 4 months ago. GMRULZ gave you a link, and there are other excellent links to articles with pictures if you do a search. I did it myself and my only regret was removing the stock cat from the exhaust manifold. On the drivers side, both bolts for the stock cat snapped off. In hindsight, I should have just left the cats connected and dropped the exhaust manifold as 1 unit. I chose to wire in the rear O2 sensors which took a fair amount of time, and my tuner immediately tuned them out. That was a waste of time on my part. But if I get a visual inspection here in Colorado, I know they look connected. Most everyone will tell you to use your stock gaskets. And I chose anti seize on the manifold bolts instead of thread lock. Personal preference.

Enjoy the install!

 

I've been thinking about doing this myself also. I had the car on the lift last night looking it over and it really does look pretty easy. For some reason the C4 looked MUCH worse. I can remember wondering how I would ever swap those manifolds so I just swapped the car instead.

 

I did a couple sets of our headers in college, before I moved to Texas .

Did them at the garage on jack stands. You only have to take out the spark plugs, wires, and dipstick. The starter does not have to come out, nor do you have to move the motor or take the steering shaft loose.

The first time installer should be able to get them done on a Friday night with hand tools.

 

I agree and will even tell you that you dont have to remove the spark plugs. I read that in the article on my Kooks install. Just as the article said, not a problem.

 

Hey, an answer from LG themselves, thanks for the input Anthony! BTW, is it true I will be able to connect direct to my OEM H-pipe? I am going with your high flow cat setup.

BTW, where do you guys weigh in on the whole Jet Hot coating debate? I plan to have them coated. I have always had them coated in previous cars that generate a bunch of under-hood heat. Has LG ever done any bench mark study on the issue?

 

Actually, our header system replaces everything from the engine to the muffler, and includes an X pipe. This makes it a complete and total bolt on system with no need to cut or weld at any point on the exhaust.

Personally, I did not coat the headers on my personal car. If you want to retain the look of chrome, or do a custom color, Jet Hot is the best way to go.

 

Good news on the entire system includes a new x-pipe.

My interest in the Jet Hot coating has nothing to do with looks or color.. i'm such a non-under hood bling guy My interest is keeping the heat in the header aand out the exhaust and not in the engine compartment.

Thanks for the feedback Anthony. I can't wait for my bonus check!

 

You should run a header install search as a lot of us posted on our installs giving tips. C6s have a lot of room between the fenders and the engine so installation is very easy from the bottom. Much easier if you have two people working as one can grab the headers from the top and do the bolting on.

Hint, notch the two outside header bolt holes on the gasket so after starting the bolts to hold the header in place you can drop the gasket in, just be sure you have the right side up as the bolts in the middle are staggered.

Watch the O2 wires and make sure they are not touching the headers, the rear ones will have a lot of excess, purchase metal clips to bolt onto the trans tunnel to keep the O2 sensor wires away from the pipes.

When starting up make sure you have a lot of ventilation as the headers and pipes are coated with oil and will smoke very heavily. After running the car you will need to check the header bolts and tighten them accordingly, to do this you will need to take off the FRCs and then pull the plug wires off of the plugs.