WOW! Installed my headers. Pics inside.
03-06-2008, 03:23 AM
#1
Le Mans Master
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WOW! Installed my headers. Pics inside.
The car:
My 2006 Z51 2LT Corvette, current relevant mods are a Vararam CAI and GHL exhaust (quad 4" tips).
The headers:
Kooks 1 3/4 Long Tube, JetHot Coated, 3" catted X-pipe.
The tools:
Car jack, Jackstands, Torque Wrench (used 18ft-lbs for the header bolts and 45ft-lbs for the exhaust clamps), and a craftsman 165pc tool set.
I wouldn't run uncoated headers on any car; for me the reduction in underhood temperatures (and lessened chance of melting plug wires) is the main reason; the performance gain from maintaining high exhaust gas temperatures and the improved looks and longevity are also pluses.
I went with kooks because I could get them coated from Tbyrne, and because when you add the cost of coating, other header options start to become too expensive for the power gains they provde, imho.
I did the install myself, with the help of my neighbor; this was my second time ever working on my 'Vette; I had no printed instructions or service manual, but I did look over
Vetteweb's C6 Header Install Instructions beforehand.
The install took 5 hours, which included a snack break, some beers, and taking the pictures. The kooks fit PERFECTLY and I am extremely satisfied with the fit and finish.
The process:
Jacked the car up and stand it on jackstands. I needed about 15" of ground clearance for this.
Removed the engine covers, the spark plug wires, and the oil dipstick. The dipstick pulls right out after you remove one single bolt. Also make sure you remove the battery positive; if you don't, the headers will short out your battery on contacting the starter motor. Don't ask me how I know. At this point, loosen all bolts. You may not want to remove them all just yet.
In retroscpect, it would have been easier to remove all the above BEFORE jacking the car up.
Do not bother attempting to remove the exhaust manifold into catalytic converter nuts. They will ALL shear:
Nice view of what the stock manifold collector looks like though. Compare it with what Kooks uses:
Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is what a 4-into-1 merge collector should look like
The proper method of removing the stock manifolds is to leave them connected to the cats and remove them at the H pipe connection. I did not have to remove the alternator, starter, or anything else in order to accomplish that.
Having removed the stock headers and cats, I moved the O2 sensors over. They were easy to remove. Don't forget the antiseize.
My 2006 Z51 2LT Corvette, current relevant mods are a Vararam CAI and GHL exhaust (quad 4" tips).
The headers:
Kooks 1 3/4 Long Tube, JetHot Coated, 3" catted X-pipe.
The tools:
Car jack, Jackstands, Torque Wrench (used 18ft-lbs for the header bolts and 45ft-lbs for the exhaust clamps), and a craftsman 165pc tool set.
I wouldn't run uncoated headers on any car; for me the reduction in underhood temperatures (and lessened chance of melting plug wires) is the main reason; the performance gain from maintaining high exhaust gas temperatures and the improved looks and longevity are also pluses.
I went with kooks because I could get them coated from Tbyrne, and because when you add the cost of coating, other header options start to become too expensive for the power gains they provde, imho.
I did the install myself, with the help of my neighbor; this was my second time ever working on my 'Vette; I had no printed instructions or service manual, but I did look over
Vetteweb's C6 Header Install Instructions beforehand.
The install took 5 hours, which included a snack break, some beers, and taking the pictures. The kooks fit PERFECTLY and I am extremely satisfied with the fit and finish.
The process:
Jacked the car up and stand it on jackstands. I needed about 15" of ground clearance for this.
Removed the engine covers, the spark plug wires, and the oil dipstick. The dipstick pulls right out after you remove one single bolt. Also make sure you remove the battery positive; if you don't, the headers will short out your battery on contacting the starter motor. Don't ask me how I know. At this point, loosen all bolts. You may not want to remove them all just yet.
In retroscpect, it would have been easier to remove all the above BEFORE jacking the car up.
Do not bother attempting to remove the exhaust manifold into catalytic converter nuts. They will ALL shear:
Nice view of what the stock manifold collector looks like though. Compare it with what Kooks uses:
Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is what a 4-into-1 merge collector should look like
The proper method of removing the stock manifolds is to leave them connected to the cats and remove them at the H pipe connection. I did not have to remove the alternator, starter, or anything else in order to accomplish that.
Having removed the stock headers and cats, I moved the O2 sensors over. They were easy to remove. Don't forget the antiseize.
Last edited by PowerLabs; 03-06-2008 at 03:40 AM.
03-06-2008, 03:31 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
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Member Since: Oct 2007
Location: Greater Detroit Metro MI, when I'm not travelling.
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Now it was time to get the new headers in. I installed them from below, but could not have done it without help. I held them up while my neighbor (thanks Les!) put the bolts on. Don't forget the gaskets; I re-used the stock ones as they are 3 layer steel and better than the ones that come with Kooks. Just make sure to clean them up nicely beforehand. I kept all bolts lose for now:
I then installed the catted X pipe, one section at a time; I was able to push the axleback exhaust out of the way to get the rear section of the X pipe in; wasn't easy, but just be patient...
Finally, I used aluminum tape to hold the O2 wires out of the way. Aluminum tape reflects heat, but it does not appear to be a very durable option. Still looking for a better way to do this.
I then installed the catted X pipe, one section at a time; I was able to push the axleback exhaust out of the way to get the rear section of the X pipe in; wasn't easy, but just be patient...
Finally, I used aluminum tape to hold the O2 wires out of the way. Aluminum tape reflects heat, but it does not appear to be a very durable option. Still looking for a better way to do this.
Last edited by PowerLabs; 03-06-2008 at 03:38 AM.
03-06-2008, 03:38 AM
#3
Le Mans Master
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So, how does it work?
So there you have it... A 5 hour install using nothing but a car jack, jackstands, and basic hand tools. It WAS laborious, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Actually, I am doing it again; my neighbor was so impressed that he ordered headers for his car a few days later 
But of course the question is: How does it perform?
First of all... *WOW*!!! Jesus Christ I never through a car -any car- could sound like this! Damn! It is slightly louder at idle and cruising, but when I floor it and the revs climb up towards the 3500+ range, the engine lets out a wail unlike ANYTHING I've ever heard before. It is unique, special and downright exotic. I absolutely love it!
Other than the sound at WOT, the car feels and drives as normal, despite not having been tuned. I haven't seen any change in fuel economy, engine bay temperature, etc.
At full throttle it certainly feels faster, but I will refrain from commeting too much on the performance until I get the car tuned this Saturday .
I love my car, and these headers make me love it just a little bit more
But of course the question is: How does it perform?
First of all... *WOW*!!! Jesus Christ I never through a car -any car- could sound like this! Damn! It is slightly louder at idle and cruising, but when I floor it and the revs climb up towards the 3500+ range, the engine lets out a wail unlike ANYTHING I've ever heard before. It is unique, special and downright exotic. I absolutely love it!
Other than the sound at WOT, the car feels and drives as normal, despite not having been tuned. I haven't seen any change in fuel economy, engine bay temperature, etc.
At full throttle it certainly feels faster, but I will refrain from commeting too much on the performance until I get the car tuned this Saturday
.I love my car, and these headers make me love it just a little bit more
Last edited by PowerLabs; 03-06-2008 at 03:48 AM.
03-06-2008, 05:44 AM
#7
Need to secure those wires to the O2 sensors. Should they contact the header, melt and short out, the car will run like crap, if it runs at all. Your local hardware store can supply electrical clips that work great. We also used some nomex tube material to further insure no heat related issues. Nice install.
03-06-2008, 06:37 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
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Nice post! I did the same project on my 06. I drilled a hole in the tunnel over the back 02 sensors to route the wire up and out of the way. Then used the al. tape around the wires. Just another thought.
It is a fun project with some worthwhile sound and sotp results.
03-06-2008, 07:55 AM
#11
Pro
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Looks like the write up I did on AR headers. The only diff is AR provided 6 of these little clamps that have an eye that goes through the torque tube cover bolts and routes the wires out of the way. sounds like Kooks forgot to pack them or maybe they don`t provide them. Not sure. But looks good!
03-06-2008, 10:06 AM
#19
Safety Car
The car:
My 2006 Z51 2LT Corvette, current relevant mods are a Vararam CAI and GHL exhaust (quad 4" tips).
The headers:
Kooks 1 3/4 Long Tube, JetHot Coated, 3" catted X-pipe.
The tools:
Car jack, Jackstands, Torque Wrench (used 18ft-lbs for the header bolts and 45ft-lbs for the exhaust clamps), and a craftsman 165pc tool set.
I wouldn't run uncoated headers on any car; for me the reduction in underhood temperatures (and lessened chance of melting plug wires) is the main reason; the performance gain from maintaining high exhaust gas temperatures and the improved looks and longevity are also pluses.
I went with kooks because I could get them coated from Tbyrne, and because when you add the cost of coating, other header options start to become too expensive for the power gains they provde, imho.
I did the install myself, with the help of my neighbor; this was my second time ever working on my 'Vette; I had no printed instructions or service manual, but I did look over
Vetteweb's C6 Header Install Instructions beforehand.
The install took 5 hours, which included a snack break, some beers, and taking the pictures. The kooks fit PERFECTLY and I am extremely satisfied with the fit and finish.
The process:
Jacked the car up and stand it on jackstands. I needed about 15" of ground clearance for this.
Removed the engine covers, the spark plug wires, and the oil dipstick. The dipstick pulls right out after you remove one single bolt. Also make sure you remove the battery positive; if you don't, the headers will short out your battery on contacting the starter motor. Don't ask me how I know. At this point, loosen all bolts. You may not want to remove them all just yet.
In retroscpect, it would have been easier to remove all the above BEFORE jacking the car up.
Do not bother attempting to remove the exhaust manifold into catalytic converter nuts. They will ALL shear:
Nice view of what the stock manifold collector looks like though. Compare it with what Kooks uses:
Now that, ladies and gentlemen, is what a 4-into-1 merge collector should look like
The proper method of removing the stock manifolds is to leave them connected to the cats and remove them at the H pipe connection. I did not have to remove the alternator, starter, or anything else in order to accomplish that.
Having removed the stock headers and cats, I moved the O2 sensors over. They were easy to remove. Don't forget the antiseize.
Now it was time to get the new headers in. I installed them from below, but could not have done it without help. I held them up while my neighbor (thanks Les!) put the bolts on. Don't forget the gaskets; I re-used the stock ones as they are 3 layer steel and better than the ones that come with Kooks. Just make sure to clean them up nicely beforehand. I kept all bolts lose for now:
I then installed the catted X pipe, one section at a time; I was able to push the axleback exhaust out of the way to get the rear section of the X pipe in; wasn't easy, but just be patient...
Finally, I used aluminum tape to hold the O2 wires out of the way. Aluminum tape reflects heat, but it does not appear to be a very durable option. Still looking for a better way to do this.
So there you have it... A 5 hour install using nothing but a car jack, jackstands, and basic hand tools. It WAS laborious, but I'd do it again in a heartbeat. Actually, I am doing it again; my neighbor was so impressed that he ordered headers for his car a few days later
But of course the question is: How does it perform?
First of all... *WOW*!!! Jesus Christ I never through a car -any car- could sound like this! Damn! It is slightly louder at idle and cruising, but when I floor it and the revs climb up towards the 3500+ range, the engine lets out a wail unlike ANYTHING I've ever heard before. It is unique, special and downright exotic. I absolutely love it!
Other than the sound at WOT, the car feels and drives as normal, despite not having been tuned. I haven't seen any change in fuel economy, engine bay temperature, etc.
At full throttle it certainly feels faster, but I will refrain from commeting too much on the performance until I get the car tuned this Saturday
.I love my car, and these headers make me love it just a little bit more
EXCELLENT WRITE UP!
This should be put in the FAQ section. Way to go, good job man!
.
03-06-2008, 10:41 AM
#20
Safety Car
GMRULZ,
Your write up with pics was an EXCELLENT HEADER INSTALL WRITE UP too, way to go!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1441406
GOOD job man!
.
Your write up with pics was an EXCELLENT HEADER INSTALL WRITE UP too, way to go!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1441406
GOOD job man!
.