What is the widest tire suggested?
#2
Drifting
No it's not, but you loose tire dia 26.9 down to 26.3 over 1/2 inch. Unless you lower your car all the way around it will look kinda funny. To much space from top of tire to fender. If you can live with scraping on more things than you scrape now, then go for it.
#6
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13
305 would be a little wide for a 10" wheel, a good step up from stock would be a 255/295 split. Just make sure when you change tires, to make sure you keep them as close to the stock height as possible, or relative to each other anyway. If you get a shorter rear, make sure the front is also shorter.
#10
Burning Brakes
1. BF Goodrich KDW2 255/40-18 & 295/19-19. This will get you a little extra width, stay w/in tire/wheel specs, & keep diameters very close to stock BFGs 26 & 27, stock GY 25.7 & 26.9 so the front differential is 1" vs. 1.2 (stock)
2. Michelin PS2 255/35-18 & 305/30-19. This will raise 2 slight issues. First the 305 are outside rim width specs, but they will definately fit w/o issue (many CF members have done it). The diameters go to 25 & 26.3, so roughly +1/2" smaller than stock. The
effect is 1/4" more gap in tire to fenderwell. Easily compensated by lowering the vehicle.
Note: there are several manufacturers for option 2, Nitto Invos, Pirelli, Continental & I'm sure more.
I have gone round & round w/ this & I have decided to simplify & go w/ the KDW2s for several reasons:
1. Rear tire difference 10mm roughly 3/8" in width, but diameter is taller. School of thought is taller tire diameter translates to larger contact patch & better straight line traction, which is my goal.
2. My car is already lowered max on stock bolts, & IMO opinion the better the tire fills the fenderwell the better it looks. So to maintain the look I would have to lower more requiring modding existing bolts or going aftermarket. Either way, it translates to removing lowering bolts, which isn't rocket science but it's a pain & time consuming.
3. Finally, KDW2s go for about $1100 to your door from Tire Rack, PS2s are about $600 more for the set. They other manufacturers Nitto are cheaper, Continetal close, Pirelli same or more vs the PS2s.
Finally, you will get opinions all over the board on what's better for traction (wet & dry), straight line vs cornering, treadlife, etc. But they're all opinions & must be weighed as such.
If you send a PM w/ you goals perhaps I may be of more help.
Hope this helps.
#11
Racer
#13
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I don't want run flats but I also don't want a shorter tire simply because i scrape over everything in the front now that I got the blower. I might have to think this through. I was looking hard at the Nittos
My goal is traction. But i want a stock look. I might have to rethink this a bit
thanks for all the advice
My goal is traction. But i want a stock look. I might have to rethink this a bit
thanks for all the advice
#14
Burning Brakes
Thanks for keeping me straight on that one Tim, this tire thing was making me crazier. What I ended up doing was buying the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 run flats for traveling and daily driving. I went with the Bridgestone Protenza RE050A's on my stock wheels for openroad racing and high speed auto-x events all in stock sizes. There is no one tire that is good for everything, always a compromise.
#18
Melting Slicks
Michelin PS2 275/35-18 on the front and 305/30-19
I installed Michelin PS2 275/35-18 on the front and 305/30-19 on the rear using stock wheels. They fit fine; no bulge and they handle much better than the run flats. They look like they should have come on the car. Also, no DIC messages.
The ride is vastly improved. In fact, it will make your Z-51 car ride like a std car. The traction is so much better, I can actually use the throttle without spinning the tires.
The ride is vastly improved. In fact, it will make your Z-51 car ride like a std car. The traction is so much better, I can actually use the throttle without spinning the tires.